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  • Few question regarding my EFR build march '15

    Hey guys,

    I just spoke with my mechanic and we had a few ''disagrement'' on a few stuff so I'm curious what other would do in my situation or if you already tried it and could give your input.

    Basicly, the build is a RB26 with a EFR 83/74 EWG plumb back with Type-R cam and all the usual add-ons.

    Car will be daily driven in downtown commute.

    1) Spark plug, I wanted to go NGK BKR7E-11 and he told me it might not be enough. I believe he was talking about enought cold.

    2) Oil pump ; I wanted to go stock pump 81mm with reimax gear locktite the plate and shim the pressure relief. He prefer I go with a nismo,reimax or tomei pump.. but then.. you need bigger sump, so he tell me to get the greddy.. then why not do a drain back with hose..

    I agree it might be the best thing to do, but at 3000$ more, I'm not sure it's needed for a daily driven downtown commute car that will barley do any drag and circuit stuff. I'M pretty sure the reimax gear can handle my type of driving. Also, I don't like the gredyd extended pan, i'm scared to break it when hitting pothole ( I live in a winter country)

    3) Injector, I want to go ID1000 with stock fuel rail and my actual walbro 450lph . he recommanded me to go twin 044 pump, surge tank with lines and custom rail.. I honestly think it's over-rated for my application. I was doing 570whp with sard 700cc and stock setup with nismo fuel reg..Surely, I could strech an extra 75-100whp with this kind of setup with bette rinjector. Whats your thought ?? ON top, I don't really have space in my trunk for that kind of setup.

    4) I wanted to go with the hi-octaine air/oil separator to free up some space in my engine bay. would you feel confident just running this setup with a mines cam baffle or would you still run an external (vent to atmo) catch-can ?

    5) Finally, I used to run a 3 inch exhaust and made 570 with a pair of -5s. It seems to be breathing nicely. My setup was ; Vibrant ultra quiet resonator, magnaflow 3 inch straight pipe muffler with a Varex muffler 3 inch.

    Because I do downtown driving, I like a ''quiet exhaust''. So this time I decided to go 4 inch muffler as a cat-replacement, with a HKS Hyper 90mm rear muffler + a 90mm varex. He scared it might be too restrictive.. saying I should remove one muffler and only run 2. Or maybe I could run 2 + a resonator. He said, every muffler you add, you restrict the flow by about 100whp.


    6) Also wanted a 4 inch dump pipe considering I was going to plumb back my EWG. First, he dont like the idea of plumb back the EWG, but I'm scared I will hate the loud sound of the EWG. Surely, a few of you must 've drove a EWG setup, how was it ?


    Thanks for your help, will report back with result for everyone wondering
    Need detailing done to your car? I'm open to travel to detail your car :

    http://forums.gtrcanada.com/group-buys/54899-ontario-cobraa-detailing-group-buy.html

    Please follow my works and latest news/promotion at : https://www.facebook.com/Waxxonspa || Waxxon.com ||

  • #2
    2) i heard a theory that it is possible to have no drop of oil pressure reading at the gauge (sender at the entry of oil gallery) while one of the last bearing journal has zero oil pressure. When you agree with this theory, and some people keep going to race their slyline on track even when they see the flickering of oil pressure warning light, it's no wonder why engines fail. Therefore I think you want more flow than stock....unless you want to drive the car like a corolla or civic most of the time....but then you have a EFR8374...

    I think a bigger sump is always good but try to stay away from trust, because the sump itself is lower than the subframe, and the lowest part of the sump is the drain plug....

    I would recommend RIPS or Hi-octane but not rawbrokerage because of how weak the canadian dollars is to USD....

    Comment


    • #3
      I have the exact build, so I'll provide you with my experience.

      2) Oil pump ; I wanted to go stock pump 81mm with reimax gear locktite the plate and shim the pressure relief. He prefer I go with a nismo,reimax or tomei pump.. but then.. you need bigger sump, so he tell me to get the greddy.. then why not do a drain back with hose..
      Weakest point of the car. No point at all even building the car up if you don't replace this IMO. You don't need a sump, baffles are a must however. Speaking from someone that made the mistake, don't cheap out here. It is the one piece that can put you back to square 0.

      I agree it might be the best thing to do, but at 3000$ more, I'm not sure it's needed for a daily driven downtown commute car that will barley do any drag and circuit stuff. I'M pretty sure the reimax gear can handle my type of driving.
      Honest question, why even get the turbo if you don't drive it hard? If you wont out drive the oil system why get a turbo that will? (just devils advocate questions, my car is as stupid as they come).

      3) Injector, I want to go ID1000 with stock fuel rail and my actual walbro 450lph . he recommanded me to go twin 044 pump, surge tank with lines and custom rail.. I honestly think it's over-rated for my application. I was doing 570whp with sard 700cc and stock setup with nismo fuel reg..Surely, I could strech an extra 75-100whp with this kind of setup with bette rinjector. Whats your thought ?? ON top, I don't really have space in my trunk for that kind of setup.
      Those injectors won't fit the stock rail without boring out to 11mm or adapters. I'd get a proper rail, but don't know enough about that to say definitively either way .

      With the 1000's at ~90% duty you'd flow at 5500cc/m or 330lph. That pump at 12volts and 43 psi will give you 375lp/h or ~6400. Add boost of 20psi and you're around 323lph or 5500cc/min. Cutting it close IMO, but doable depending on the boost you run.

      Shameless plug:
      I have a rips surge tank I'll sell you for a song if you want that as a jumping point.

      Clarification:
      I'm not ripping your build AT ALL! I encourage you do what you want, just trying to play devils advocate from all the angles.
      Last edited by hozer; 03-03-2015, 07:24 PM.
      Originally posted by archaeic_bloke
      hows the warp drive? i've seen far too many GTR's lately that just arent able to hit warp speed.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by hozer View Post
        I have the exact build, so I'll provide you with my experience.



        Weakest point of the car. No point at all even building the car up if you don't replace this IMO. You don't need a sump, baffles are a must however. Speaking from someone that made the mistake, don't cheap out here. It is the one piece that can put you back to square 0.



        Honest question, why even get the turbo if you don't drive it hard? If you wont out drive the oil system why get a turbo that will? (just devils advocate questions, my car is as stupid as they come).



        Those injectors won't fit the stock rail without boring out to 11mm or adapters. I'd get a proper rail, but don't know enough about that to say definitively either way .

        With the 1000's at ~90% duty you'd flow at 5500cc/m or 330lph. That pump at 12volts and 43 psi will give you 375lp/h or ~6400. Add boost of 20psi and you're around 323lph or 5500cc/min. Cutting it close IMO, but doable depending on the boost you run.

        Shameless plug:
        I have a rips surge tank I'll sell you for a song if you want that as a jumping point.

        Clarification:
        I'm not ripping your build AT ALL! I encourage you do what you want, just trying to play devils advocate from all the angles.
        After a few thinking for the last 24 hours. I'm ready to jump the gun on the tomei.. It's a great pump and it doesnt pump as much as some other higher-flowing pump so it should be a happy medium.

        Now.. a few local friend told me they drove with the greddy extended pan and were fine with it... i'm still hesitating.. It's not better if crack that extended sump.. because I know i scrap my front bumper and sometime when going through nasty downtown pothole i heard the subframe.. so i'm really scared about cracking that greddy pan.

        As for your question, I don't know what to answer. I like to think that if ever I feel like ripping the gas for a quick highway pull or at a red light against a porsche or wtv car, the power will be there, but in 80% of the time, I will be able to do 13.5L/ 100kms ( meaning I didn't trash/redline the car every second).

        As for the injector, my plan were to drill the OEM rail.. shouldn't be too hard for my mechanic to do. and I already went ahead and swapped the 800cc for the 1000cc just for peace of mind.


        So after thinking and a few advices from there and there, I think I will be going with the air/oil separator, tomei pump, 1000cc injector. I will drop his idea of surge tank and braided lines too much complication for little IMO.

        Guess I'm now down to greddy oil pan or not.
        Need detailing done to your car? I'm open to travel to detail your car :

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        Comment


        • #5
          picture ( scroll down the thread) shown how low the greddy sump sit.. doesn't look super safe.. I don't know loll maybe im beeing paranoid

          How to buy an R34, R33, or R32 GTR. Skyline GT-R specifications, alignment, repairs, parts, and modifications
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          Comment


          • #6
            Has anyone proven that a stock pump with Reimax gears doesnt hold up to abuse as well as one of the larger oil pumps? That is if youre basing the decision on strength alone. You shouldn't need a larger pump unless you have larger bearing clearances.

            Comment


            • #7
              After a few thinking for the last 24 hours. I'm ready to jump the gun on the tomei.. It's a great pump and it doesnt pump as much as some other higher-flowing pump so it should be a happy medium.
              Great Call, you'll be happy with that decision. Make sure you have the appropriate restrictor in the block for the new flow.

              picture ( scroll down the thread) shown how low the greddy sump sit.. doesn't look super safe.. I don't know loll maybe im beeing paranoid
              Not paranoid, it effectively becomes the lowest part of the car. Look at the RIPS extension. It sits 7mm lower than OEM, far better design imho
              Originally posted by archaeic_bloke
              hows the warp drive? i've seen far too many GTR's lately that just arent able to hit warp speed.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by cobrAA View Post
                Hey guys,

                I just spoke with my mechanic and we had a few ''disagrement'' on a few stuff so I'm curious what other would do in my situation or if you already tried it and could give your input.

                Basicly, the build is a RB26 with a EFR 83/74 EWG plumb back with Type-R cam and all the usual add-ons.

                Car will be daily driven in downtown commute.

                1) Spark plug, I wanted to go NGK BKR7E-11 and he told me it might not be enough. I believe he was talking about enought cold.

                2) Oil pump ; I wanted to go stock pump 81mm with reimax gear locktite the plate and shim the pressure relief. He prefer I go with a nismo,reimax or tomei pump.. but then.. you need bigger sump, so he tell me to get the greddy.. then why not do a drain back with hose..

                I agree it might be the best thing to do, but at 3000$ more, I'm not sure it's needed for a daily driven downtown commute car that will barley do any drag and circuit stuff. I'M pretty sure the reimax gear can handle my type of driving. Also, I don't like the gredyd extended pan, i'm scared to break it when hitting pothole ( I live in a winter country)

                3) Injector, I want to go ID1000 with stock fuel rail and my actual walbro 450lph . he recommanded me to go twin 044 pump, surge tank with lines and custom rail.. I honestly think it's over-rated for my application. I was doing 570whp with sard 700cc and stock setup with nismo fuel reg..Surely, I could strech an extra 75-100whp with this kind of setup with bette rinjector. Whats your thought ?? ON top, I don't really have space in my trunk for that kind of setup.

                4) I wanted to go with the hi-octaine air/oil separator to free up some space in my engine bay. would you feel confident just running this setup with a mines cam baffle or would you still run an external (vent to atmo) catch-can ?

                5) Finally, I used to run a 3 inch exhaust and made 570 with a pair of -5s. It seems to be breathing nicely. My setup was ; Vibrant ultra quiet resonator, magnaflow 3 inch straight pipe muffler with a Varex muffler 3 inch.

                Because I do downtown driving, I like a ''quiet exhaust''. So this time I decided to go 4 inch muffler as a cat-replacement, with a HKS Hyper 90mm rear muffler + a 90mm varex. He scared it might be too restrictive.. saying I should remove one muffler and only run 2. Or maybe I could run 2 + a resonator. He said, every muffler you add, you restrict the flow by about 100whp.


                6) Also wanted a 4 inch dump pipe considering I was going to plumb back my EWG. First, he dont like the idea of plumb back the EWG, but I'm scared I will hate the loud sound of the EWG. Surely, a few of you must 've drove a EWG setup, how was it ?


                Thanks for your help, will report back with result for everyone wondering

                1. bkr7e should be fine, but i would suggest against -11 as that is a pregap, if you go with just a bkr7e the pregap is .34 vs the -11 .40 , gapping the -11 to .30 or less put a weird curve on the tip. also bkr7eix is nicer option. if spark miss occurs and your ignition system is in proper working condition than upon spark plug visual inspection i would go a range colder, but fouling plugs on a daily car may become an issue.

                2. stockl pump should be fine with reimax gears, yes any other high volume pump will need atleast a 1.5litre sump increase.

                3. id1000 are ok. surge tank is not necessary unless you plan to heavily track the car. stock fuel line diameter past 550whp may become an issue.

                4. your suggested setup is fine, if you stil have excessive oil in catch tank after this setup you need to add a third pressure relief to the crank case system. usually front of valve cover.

                5. 3" should be fine. although a backpressure gauge would confirm that if you come into problems. at that point 3.5" would be suggested. this can also be seen on the plugs as excessive back pressure would increase your pre detonation point as the exhaust gasses are not being expelled freely from the cylinder, if fueling is correct a white plug with increased knock would indicate this, and your tuner having to retard timing past peak torque more than usual.

                6. plum back is fine as long as the transition is correct and exhaust diameter doesn't interfere. you would see this as a boost spike and refer back to point 5.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by cobrAA View Post
                  Hey guys,

                  I just spoke with my mechanic and we had a few ''disagrement'' on a few stuff so I'm curious what other would do in my situation or if you already tried it and could give your input.

                  Basicly, the build is a RB26 with a EFR 83/74 EWG plumb back with Type-R cam and all the usual add-ons.

                  Car will be daily driven in downtown commute.

                  1) Spark plug, I wanted to go NGK BKR7E-11 and he told me it might not be enough. I believe he was talking about enought cold.

                  2) Oil pump ; I wanted to go stock pump 81mm with reimax gear locktite the plate and shim the pressure relief. He prefer I go with a nismo,reimax or tomei pump.. but then.. you need bigger sump, so he tell me to get the greddy.. then why not do a drain back with hose..

                  I agree it might be the best thing to do, but at 3000$ more, I'm not sure it's needed for a daily driven downtown commute car that will barley do any drag and circuit stuff. I'M pretty sure the reimax gear can handle my type of driving. Also, I don't like the gredyd extended pan, i'm scared to break it when hitting pothole ( I live in a winter country)

                  3) Injector, I want to go ID1000 with stock fuel rail and my actual walbro 450lph . he recommanded me to go twin 044 pump, surge tank with lines and custom rail.. I honestly think it's over-rated for my application. I was doing 570whp with sard 700cc and stock setup with nismo fuel reg..Surely, I could strech an extra 75-100whp with this kind of setup with bette rinjector. Whats your thought ?? ON top, I don't really have space in my trunk for that kind of setup.

                  4) I wanted to go with the hi-octaine air/oil separator to free up some space in my engine bay. would you feel confident just running this setup with a mines cam baffle or would you still run an external (vent to atmo) catch-can ?

                  5) Finally, I used to run a 3 inch exhaust and made 570 with a pair of -5s. It seems to be breathing nicely. My setup was ; Vibrant ultra quiet resonator, magnaflow 3 inch straight pipe muffler with a Varex muffler 3 inch.

                  Because I do downtown driving, I like a ''quiet exhaust''. So this time I decided to go 4 inch muffler as a cat-replacement, with a HKS Hyper 90mm rear muffler + a 90mm varex. He scared it might be too restrictive.. saying I should remove one muffler and only run 2. Or maybe I could run 2 + a resonator. He said, every muffler you add, you restrict the flow by about 100whp.


                  6) Also wanted a 4 inch dump pipe considering I was going to plumb back my EWG. First, he dont like the idea of plumb back the EWG, but I'm scared I will hate the loud sound of the EWG. Surely, a few of you must 've drove a EWG setup, how was it ?


                  Thanks for your help, will report back with result for everyone wondering

                  1. bkr7e should be fine, but i would suggest against -11 as that is a pregap, if you go with just a bkr7e the pregap is .34 vs the -11 .40 , gapping the -11 to .30 or less put a weird curve on the tip. also bkr7eix is nicer option. if spark miss occurs and your ignition system is in proper working condition than upon spark plug visual inspection i would go a range colder, but fouling plugs on a daily car may become an issue.

                  2. stockl pump should be fine with reimax gears, yes any other high volume pump will need atleast a 1.5litre sump increase.

                  3. id1000 are ok. surge tank is not necessary unless you plan to heavily track the car. stock fuel line diameter past 550whp may become an issue.

                  4. your suggested setup is fine, if you stil have excessive oil in catch tank after this setup you need to add a third pressure relief to the crank case system. usually front of valve cover.

                  5. 3" should be fine. although a backpressure gauge would confirm that if you come into problems. at that point 3.5" would be suggested. this can also be seen on the plugs as excessive back pressure would increase your pre detonation point as the exhaust gasses are not being expelled freely from the cylinder, if fueling is correct a white plug with increased knock would indicate this, and your tuner having to retard timing past peak torque more than usual.

                  6. plum back is fine as long as the transition is correct and exhaust diameter doesn't interfere. you would see this as a boost spike and refer back to point 5.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    3. id1000 are ok. surge tank is not necessary unless you plan to heavily track the car. stock fuel line diameter past 550whp may become an issue.
                    I'd like to second this and say stock fuel lines in my experience were an issue @ 500whp but that was with 25psi. If you plan to run beyond 20psi I think your lines will be an issue at peak. But if you only ever street drive it, well that's not really an issue
                    Originally posted by archaeic_bloke
                    hows the warp drive? i've seen far too many GTR's lately that just arent able to hit warp speed.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Also just incase OP missed it. You're still talking about a greddy sump, however Hozer has offered you a rips extension super cheap. Like he said it sits about 7mm lower than oem thats still above the subframe i'd look at taking him up on that offer. Also a song sounds cheaper than whatever greddy costs =]

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hozer has rips surge tank for sale, not sump, I've been eyeing that one lol

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by steveo1502 View Post
                          Hozer has rips surge tank for sale, not sump, I've been eyeing that one lol
                          Surge tank is for sale haha. You definitely need it!

                          I have the RIPS sump as well but it's on the car, was merely commenting on it because I know it sits less than a cm lower than OEM. I looked at every sump extension and RIPS IMO is the only choice for Canadian roads; would not even consider making an oil pan the lowest part of the car.
                          Originally posted by archaeic_bloke
                          hows the warp drive? i've seen far too many GTR's lately that just arent able to hit warp speed.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by hozer View Post
                            Surge tank is for sale haha. You definitely need it!

                            I have the RIPS sump as well but it's on the car, was merely commenting on it because I know it sits less than a cm lower than OEM. I looked at every sump extension and RIPS IMO is the only choice for Canadian roads; would not even consider making an oil pan the lowest part of the car.
                            I'm about to make a purchase on a RIPS Oil sump. about 400$ more than a greddy but that 400$ will be a great peace of mind considering it doesnt really sit any lower.

                            Also just bought a tomei oil pump. RIPS recommend me to keep the tomei oil restrictor 1.5mm or go 1.2mm

                            Also bought the 1000cc injector.

                            So fuel lines and rail... who can recommand me something ? where should I look ? how much im looking at ?
                            Need detailing done to your car? I'm open to travel to detail your car :

                            http://forums.gtrcanada.com/group-buys/54899-ontario-cobraa-detailing-group-buy.html

                            Please follow my works and latest news/promotion at : https://www.facebook.com/Waxxonspa || Waxxon.com ||

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by cobrAA View Post
                              I'm about to make a purchase on a RIPS Oil sump. about 400$ more than a greddy but that 400$ will be a great peace of mind considering it doesnt really sit any lower.

                              Also just bought a tomei oil pump. RIPS recommend me to keep the tomei oil restrictor 1.5mm or go 1.2mm

                              Also bought the 1000cc injector.

                              So fuel lines and rail... who can recommand me something ? where should I look ? how much im looking at ?
                              Great call. You will be really happy with that.

                              Fuel rail I'd go something twin feed and center return. I went with hypertune fuel rail, haven't heard much about it but when I got the intake from them I was floored by the quality so I got a fuel rail as well.

                              I've heard the stock rail is more than capable if you were looking to save cash there and really the lines honestly probably are too. You are right at the limit is all... My concern would be is you get this rocking car on the road and have fuel line issues and have to rip it apart again. As for the lines, if you do decide to get them, there is different routes to go depending on the rail.
                              Originally posted by archaeic_bloke
                              hows the warp drive? i've seen far too many GTR's lately that just arent able to hit warp speed.

                              Comment

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