GB Feeler. Dry Sump Kit for RB engine

[xcye]

On an engine that is built close to stock specification: (90Degree Temp, 5W40 Lubomoly Sync)
The kit gives around 32 to 35psi at idle and reaches 120psi at 3000 to 3500 rpm. The pressure limit is however adjustable on the pump.

On my current set up with a 2.5 quarter tanks, it takes 7-8L for a flush. However, the location my tank is at can take up to a 4.5 quarter tank easy therefore more than 12L for a flush.

Yes, I sealed the engine and used a Peterson one-way valve (Pop off, if the case pressure is positive) and a Moroso vacuum adjuster to regulate the vacuum. I have seen -0.1 to -0.5 bar of vacuum.

Yes, I use Earls Pro-lite hose for Air as well.

I actually tested one R4 pump and liked it. Then, I asked them to make one to my specification. But, they are too busy and can't do it in a reasonable amount of time. Therefore, I called Aviaid, they made one for me in 2 days.

Yes, you need some budget to complete the whole set up.

I'm sure it will, but I have many oopsie parts in my garage that won't sell cause most people are on budgets so another $2500 of stored parts isn't helping me.

Any pictures of the mounting location? Had to delete my AC for the new setup cause it was too longso if that's the location then it's makes for an easy decision

Edit: how much pressure is your kit pushing and what flow? My current setup is around 8 bar warm (wot) in example. Also, wha kind of capacity can you get with the reservoir up front? I'm not sure if more is really better for heat/life but I know the oil changes are good for a while at 12L.

Are you running a sealed engine? (plugged cam cover breathers, no posi crank case ventilation)? How much vacuum are you running with that drysump (this is set up externally to the dry sump, a dry sump alone doesn't make it better if it's not "tuned" perfectly so to speak). If you are using vacuum, are you using Teflon lined hoses (no possibility of the regular SS rubber hoses collapsing)

You recommend peterson (supposedly some of the best parts of its kind) for the tank, is there a reason you didn't go with their pump also (which has a unique design I hear?). Their beastly R4 pump runs around $1500 for street price.

So after The pump and bracket is picked up there's still another $3-5k worth of hose, fittings, breather tank, manifold, oil pan mods and valves? Just going by the other forums are saying about dry sumps.

[NismoS-tune]

Sorry I went a different route. Hopefully my questions will help other buyers

[M13]

What do you do with your OEM pump when going w/ this kit?

[xcye]

What do you do with your OEM pump when going w/ this kit?

Remove the backing plate and the internals.

[collector240sx]

What do you do with your OEM pump when going w/ this kit?

Like M13 said.

And since the oil pressure is now coming from the dry sump, you might want to block the line from the oil pump.

Here's a picture to show what I mean.

[M13]

Remove the backing plate and the internals.

But still retain the front main seal correct? I thought some guys just kept the pump alone but just removed the stock oil pick-up tube.

Do the pump rotors play a role in keeping the nose of the crank in place? (I don't think they do, but the front main seal is important)

Thx.

[newalliance123]

This is a good price. Plus for the new guys getting into their first built motor, you don't need a new Crank or Crank Collar!

[xcye]

Yes, you must keep the front main seal.

No, you must not keep internals and the back plate. Once the pick up gets removed, there will not be enough oil get to the internals to cool down, Let alone enough oil to keep the front main seal lubricated.

So, the back plate and the internal gears must be removed.

But still retain the front main seal correct? I thought some guys just kept the pump alone but just removed the stock oil pick-up tube.

Do the pump rotors play a role in keeping the nose of the crank in place? (I don't think they do, but the front main seal is important)

Thx.

[xcye]

I sell the kit pretty much at its cost to GTRC members.

And you are right, the crank nose does not need to be fixed for R32 engines with dry sump set up.

This is a good price. Plus for the new guys getting into their first built motor, you don't need a new Crank or Crank Collar!

[M13]

danke!

[leung23c]

Hi. Is this kit still for sale? I am interested. Also...would you do a custom kit which include piping and mounting bracket for a accusump? Just curious

Cheers

[xcye]

Yes, I am still selling the kit and just in the middle of building one for another member here. Please pm me for details, thanks!

Regarding accusump, no, I do not have any plan to build an accusump kit.

Hi. Is this kit still for sale? I am interested. Also...would you do a custom kit which include piping and mounting bracket for a accusump? Just curious

Cheers

[xcye]

Now, I have one kit available for sale. Please let me know if you are interested.

I built the kit for a member here, but he stopped responsing my emails after I got everything ready to ship. Anyway, I will let the kit go at my cost.

[rolyaT]

What's the price?

[xcye]

What's the price?

Pm'ed.

Here is a picture of the actual kit. All parts are brand new. The bracket and the crank hub are test fitted to ensure they are made to spec.