If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.
Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.
start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
Besides My driveshaft center bearing is dying, I am building my car up for response and reliability; Therefore, a carbon shaft is a good choice in my case. Yes, an aluminum shaft can work too. But, since I am already there, Why not spend a little more and get a carbon shaft?
Thanks for reminding me, I am going to consider the DriveshaftShop one as well.
R32 GTR and it was a long time ago. I can't remember the price and the invoice got lost. Keep in mind there was a group buy in australia and a lot of people had issues with vibration afterwards.
Mine vibrated a bit after I installed but I think the problem was the aluminum end that connects to the driveshaft was a very tight fit and I went around once tightening them (star pattern of course) then went back around and snugged them up. It vibrated a little bit between 90-110kmph.
I probably only drove it for a few thousand k's but then one day I was WOT and one of the bolts came loose and fell out. I went and found some longer bolts and red loctite. I then went to reinstall and went around and around (star pattern again) and I probably went around 5 times and really cranked on them.
That's why I think the aluminum end was too tight and the first time I didn't tighten the bolts enough to suck it into diff end. Now the vibration is gone and it has seen a few track days and passes on the track without problems.
I will say there was an improvement in throttle response and a bit more power. You couldnt really notice the extra power anywhere above 3000rpm but below that, around town it was good.
Even though it's carbon fibre it is still not super light. They re-use the metal end that connects to the transfer case and it is heavy. If the driveshaft shop one is 100% aluminum it will be lighter. However keep in mind carbon fibre naturally corrects harmonics and absorbs hard twists in the drive line (launching, droping gears around the track, etc)
Torqline also builds a carbon shaft (more $$$) and there is a company in the states that builds them but the name escapes me right now. ACPT makes the carbon shafts for trust and nismo aswell.
After spending several days with Soichi. The topic of drive shafts came up. He ran the options on his dyno. Stock vs one piece steel, AL. and CF,
The spread in WHP goes something like this.
1pc steel=+14
1pc AL= +17
1pc CF= +19
Over STOCK not over each other
The carbon fiber shaft at DSS was pretty resonable at $1450 shipped. I would have gone this route rather than the aluminum had I a bigger budget but I had to limit somewhere
Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.
Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.
start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
After spending several days with Soichi. The topic of drive shafts came up. He ran the options on his dyno. Stock vs one piece steel, AL. and CF,
The spread in WHP goes something like this.
1pc steel=+14
1pc AL= +17
1pc CF= +19
Over STOCK not over each other
He Recommends AL.
Do you know why he recommends AL?
AL seems to be a good choice if the concern is power/price.
But, for the added benefits "Super_Dude" mentioned below, I'd like to go a step further to get the CF.
I will say there was an improvement in throttle response and a bit more power. You couldnt really notice the extra power anywhere above 3000rpm but below that, around town it was good.
Even though it's carbon fibre it is still not super light. They re-use the metal end that connects to the transfer case and it is heavy. If the driveshaft shop one is 100% aluminum it will be lighter. However keep in mind carbon fibre naturally corrects harmonics and absorbs hard twists in the drive line (launching, droping gears around the track, etc)
Torqline also builds a carbon shaft (more $$$) and there is a company in the states that builds them but the name escapes me right now. ACPT makes the carbon shafts for trust and nismo aswell.
I have just read the feedbacks on that AUS site. ACPT seemed to be shaky when it came to direct sales. I have also researched the DSS one. All feedbacks for them are positive so far and it seems DSS has more down-to-earth customer service.
The carbon fiber shaft at DSS was pretty resonable at $1450 shipped. I would have gone this route rather than the aluminum had I a bigger budget but I had to limit somewhere
I am going to call DSS to find out if any shop local can order one for me. Or, if not, I will just get one from them directly.
+17 and +19 WHP, wow! I should consider that in a near future....
$900 elsewhere could get you more power unless you've tapped lots elsewhere and money ain't a thing. Some of the sickest GTRs in the world still use oem or AL but it's a decent upgrade and chest puffer for us. IMO, it would be one of the last mods I'd do for power (after a built engine, head, diffs, oil, fuel, ect. Then again, I'm the dumbass that stuck with a gtr engine rather than the smarter rb30 swap...
Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.
Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.
start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
He recommends Al. Because of the cost. They build Al. Shafts for 3-400 and they get rid of the big joint at the back and convert to a flange on the rear diff.
Think about it. That is an expensive 2HP. Plus when the local driveline shop builds the shaft you don't pay shipping, or duty.
Comment