AMS R35 GTR Race Pulley Install/Specs...

[Vuk@AMS]

Just thought we'd share some install shots and specs on our industry first pulley for the R35.



Some of the specs:

• Power and torque gains throughout the power-band!
• Stock-sized main crank pulley (no under-drive related issues)
• CAD-Designed, billet aircraft aluminum construction (T6061)
• Metal sleeve on main crank pulley for a positive seal
• Weighs in at 2.35 lbs. versus 6.17 lbs. factory pulley!
• Fully balanced, super light, and super strong!
• Aircraft grade aluminum construction utilizing strict ISO 9001 manufacturing standards
• AMS laser-etched logo and anodized black for longevity/durability and a stealth stock look
• AMS pulleys have been used for years on highly built VG and VQ powerplants!

Applications:

R35 2009+


Side by Side shots of AMS Pulley vs OEM:




Picture of metal sleeve for a positive seal between the pulley and front oil seal:



Install is straight forward and should take around 2-3 hours using simple tools:

10mm socket, ratchet, extensions
flat head or equivalent for removal of plastic clips
19 mm deep socket (preferably impact) and breaker bar/pipe
jam bar (for main drive shaft)
torque wrench

Picture of the GTR prepping for light surgery at AMS:


After proper positioning on our scissor lift we position the rubber blocks under the OEM mounting points:



Shot of the undertray that needs to be removed to access the lower engine bay. The arrows depict some of the 10mm bolts and clip locations that need to be removed for the front lower lip/bumper to be removed. The front bolts are hidden by rubber plugs that have been removed in this pic:


Two 10 mm bolts (one on either side) are hidden towards the front wheel splash shield. Removing the plastic clips will allow access to these with an extension:



Front lower lip/bumper carefully being removed:


Front lip/bumper removed:

With the front lip/bumper removed you now have access to the remaining 4 x 10 mm bolts in order to remove the second undertray:


Second tray removed - don't mind the salt


OEM Pulley waiting for extraction:


In order to remove the serpentine belt you will need a 3/8 ratchet. Watch your fingers as the idler arm has alot of tension. Before removing the belt note the routing - may want to draw a simple sketch for reference. Belt is removed:

Now is the fun part - removing the crank bolt. Easiest way would have been to remove the rad assembly as you can then fit an impact gun and voila! However taking the rad out etc is unnessary and more time consuming than needed. Grab a 19mm deep impact socket with 1/4 ratchet and good length pipe to use as a breaker bar. Now you need to jam the primary driveshaft from spinning. Here is where a hoist and helper are very beneficial. Simple insert the crow bar in-between the front u-joint:


Now you spin the 19mm socket counter clock-wise while your assistant keeps the drive-shaft from spinning. Should not take too much effort.
You can shoot some WD40 where the 19mm crank bolt was removed to help with removal of the OEM pulley. We found that the OEM pulley just needs some simple wiggling to pry loose - gotta love new cars



Now you lubricate the metal sleeve of the AMS pulley with oil/WD or equivalent. This ensures that the sleeve does not bind the crank seal. This is a precaution as the seals are fresh and still soft but on higher mileage cars they become hard and more brittle. Ona higher mileage car we would be replacing the seal regardless. Add some anti-seaze to the inner portion of the pulley and carefully insert making sure the key-ruff does not fall out or move.
Tighten the bolt with a torque wrench to OEM specs (I forget the exact spec and will insert this when I return to the shop).

AMS Pulley installed - not even the dealer will know it's there




Final steps involve re-tracing your steps for the under-trays.

All in all this should take a competent shop no more than 2-3 hours to do depending on skill level etc.

With simple equations for power increases the formula is 2.7 hp per 1 lb saved. Expect 10+ hp easily. Our past results with pulleys show a higher output level as cars are more heavily modified. The engine will feel lighter and upshifts and downshifts will be quicker!

Our AMS pulley will be available through exclusive distributors such as Speed for Sale. Pre-order details and delivery details along with dyno to follow shortly.

For those interested we had a feature on an install on one of our kits for the 350Z:

http://amszstore.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=33&pos=1

This is just a sample of things to come from our camp in the coming months for the R35.


Enjoy!

Vuk@AMS

https://www.amszstore.com

Servicing Nissan's Flagships Since 1992!

[SxyBeast]

Interesting how such small improvements can go a very long way. Great to see a tunner here at home doing their part. Thumbs up to you.

Your car looks pretty driven, is that the car I have seen driving up and down HWY 27 & 7 from time to time?

[Vuk@AMS]

This GTR is one of our clients rides with under 1000 KM. The salt and conditions and a black paint scheme don't go hand in hand. As for mods these owners are very open to them even though they have plenty of power to begin with.

Regards,

Vuk@AMS

https://www.amszstore.com

Interesting how such small improvements can go a very long way. Great to see a tunner here at home doing their part. Thumbs up to you.

Your car looks pretty driven, is that the car I have seen driving up and down HWY 27 & 7 from time to time?

[relo]

dude

great walk through vuk the pulley looks great

[specialedition]

good post Do you guys make pulleys for The R32 Rb20 and rb26?

[Vuk@AMS]

We've been asked several times and not yet. We may pursue this later this year so we'll keep you posted.

Regards,

Vuk@AMS

https://www.amszstore.com

good post Do you guys make pulleys for The R32 Rb20 and rb26?

[specialedition]

We've been asked several times and not yet. We may pursue this later this year so we'll keep you posted.

Regards,

Vuk@AMS
www.amszstore.com

I hope you can get these, Seems to me This is a great product, Not to mention a small upgrade like this makes a large difference in the long run. Once again good job guys

[EtienneGignac]

2nd undertray ? lol

You should do a before/after dyno...always helps with the sales

[mcfly]

You guys feel that running a solid pulley where the harmonic damper used to be is a good option for four pounds of weight? Why didn't Nissan do this then?


I wouldn't run a solid pulley on a rb, does the vr38 not have harmonics to contend with? Just seems odd to me.

[Vuk@AMS]

The pulleys we offer replace the 'Isolator' as theses cars do not come equiped from the factory with a pulley that balances the engine (i.e. harmonic balancer). Here is a quick read on dispelling Internet Rumours from UR's Site:

"People are getting their crank pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some domestic V6 & V8 engines. "Harmonic Balancer" is a term used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The "balancer" part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper. None of the applications we offer use a counterweight as part of the pulley, as these engines are all internally balanced.

The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley making them look similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress noise from the engine accessories; the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to realize in these applications, the elastomer is inadequate in size and durability to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda B & D Series engines, Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's just to mention a few. Most owners who have installed our pulleys notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is result of replacing the heavy crank pulley with our crank pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.

The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement and frequencies of high amplitude. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as shorter stroke length, smaller displacement, piston dwell time, piston pin off-set, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur. More importantly the actual tune of the engine, espcially with modified vheciles, is the biggest factor in potential engine damage. Poor tuning leads to detonation which is an engine killer that no damper can stop.

Again, there is a lot of internet hearsay about solid crank pulleys. When engine problems occur, too often people are quick to blame the pulley first, rather than taking the time to look logically into why there was a problem. We hope that after reading this you will understand our crank pulleys better."

The modern engines we design the pulleys for are internally balanced as are our pulleys. Our AMS pulleys we've used for years on some of the industries most powerful VG and VQ motors and soon VR's

Pulleys have been a great way of releasing power via weight savings.

Hope this is informative. As to why Nissan didn't do this? This can be posed for the dozens of aftermarket parts squeezing more power for the R35 (Y-pipes, Plenum spacers, turbo upgrades, intercooler upgrades, internal tranny upgrades.....)You can see where this is going. The aftermarket is there to provide improvements to OEM designs.

Regards,

Vuk@AMS

https://www.amszstore.com

You guys feel that running a solid pulley where the harmonic damper used to be is a good option for four pounds of weight? Why didn't Nissan do this then?


I wouldn't run a solid pulley on a rb, does the vr38 not have harmonics to contend with? Just seems odd to me.

[mcfly]

The pulleys we offer replace the 'Isolator' as theses cars do not come equiped from the factory with a pulley that balances the engine (i.e. harmonic balancer).

Yes they do, look the picture you posted. You can see the rubber. It is designed much like the rb26 damper, the r35's just saves more weight from factory...

[Kevin@AMS]

Yes they do, look the picture you posted. You can see the rubber. It is designed much like the rb26 damper, the r35's just saves more weight from factory...

That would be the isolator Vuk mentioned in his reply

Thanks

Kevin@AMS

[Vuk@AMS]

[QUOTE=mcfly;372016]Yes they do, look the picture you posted. You can see the rubber.

I will answer directly and without any ill-intent regarding your concerns and interpretation so take the reply below as getting straight to the point. Don't want the thread to go off-topic as well over what the rubber is coined as on these 'V' motors.

As we alluded to this rubber is an 'Isolator' on the V-Series motors we have applications for. How do we know? Being a licensed Red-Seal Tech, Contributing Tech Editor for Mags, Sema Member and hands on designer of these parts puts us in a unique position to know what the industry jargon is and it's function

I guess the main point is that they do what they are advertised to do with zero reliability issues on the VG's, VQ's and now the GTR motors. The engines we have installed these on not only release power but have run smoother and are more responsive across the powerband. I could see your concern for the In-Line 6 motors but that should be left for another thread/debate.

Look for all the major mags to showcase our new AMS R35 Pulley and a feature install in the near future. The article itself will elaborate on what we've explained thus far.

Regards,

Vuk@AMS

https://www.amszstore.com

[EliteGTR]

Are those balancing holes on your pulley? They CNC Machined? If so why would you need balancing holes?
Also, just by looking at your pulley I can see you can save a decent amount of weight. Why did you choose not to?

[Vuk@AMS]

Yes they are balancing holes - extra measure taken for a precise balance. If you look at the stock variant they have balancing holes as well. Definitely CNC'd. We could of saved marginally more but deemed it unnecessary to compromise strength.

Good questions but the research has been done and the product from inception to final design took 3 months so plenty of detailed thought and effort. Same is true for the other AMS Pulleys that have been on the market for years.

Regards,

Vuk@AMS

https://www.amszstore.com

Are those balancing holes on your pulley? They CNC Machined? If so why would you need balancing holes?
Also, just by looking at your pulley I can see you can save a decent amount of weight. Why did you choose not to?