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  • potential buyers compression test

    Some of you may know that I am selling my rolled gtr.
    Since the body is no good, but most of the drive train & engine had no damage, basically that is what I'm selling.
    I had some guys come by and do a compression test.
    But they did a few things that I thought were weird.
    Just note I had not started the car for a while and the battery is weak.
    1. When doing the compression test, they did not have the throttle open.
    2. They did not hook up the battery to a power source.
    3. The test was done cold and not warm.
    The numbers came out to be about 140 on four cylinders and about 130 on two (it was read out loud).
    Since the compression should be at closer to 170 they want cheaper.
    But I had never seen a compression test done in this way and I was under the impression that if done properly, compression should be above 150 not 170.
    There were several other points that I thought strange about the buyer, but keeping that aside, this compression test is not normal.
    I don't have a tester, but have seen it done many times.
    I just need to check in with others about this since I don't have a good feeling about it.
    If the buyer is browsing around and sees this thread, feel free to comment.

  • #2
    no that sounds like(in my experience) that they, either had no clue what was going on or that they were trying to make a low test so you would sell cheap. Either way you have valid points and something is fishy there

    Kyle
    Originally posted by funkymonkey
    You guys need to set up an RSPCS (Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Skylines) and take a baseball bat to the heads of owners that bring disrespect to the heritage by being metrosexual knob jockeys behind the steering wheel.

    Comment


    • #3
      those numbers are good and you are allowed up to 14 psi deviation between cylinders on a healthy engine.

      171 may be the nissan "new" spec but I have yet to see even a rebuilt rb pull 170's. One of those mythical numbers. You have a healthy used engine though. Maybe they are used to higher static compression motors and are basing their numbers off past results.

      Comment


      • #4
        but typically arent you supposed to crank on a consistant battery at running temp? and i know ive heard people say make sure the pedal is to the floor..
        McFly is right though. almost every RB that ive seen that was considered in good running order was around 140-150 area. ive never seen one in the 160s consistantly across the 6 cylinder

        btw how many cranks did they do per cylinder?

        Kyle
        Originally posted by funkymonkey
        You guys need to set up an RSPCS (Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Skylines) and take a baseball bat to the heads of owners that bring disrespect to the heritage by being metrosexual knob jockeys behind the steering wheel.

        Comment


        • #5
          DrMango
          We did about 5 to 6 rotations per tested cylinder.

          Mcfly
          He did mention Civic type R motors pushing upwards of 200 psi, which I thought was irrelevant.

          There were a few other points they brought up regarding import and skylines that were doubtful, but I'll keep that out of here.

          It's good to know that the engine is in good shape.

          Comment


          • #6
            did they do a wet test with oil in the cylinders? might be beneficial for you to know whether the problem is the rings or something else in case that gets brought up.
            i've never heard about putting the pedal to the floor in a compression test. anybody else do that?
            in general you want all your cylinders to be within 10% of each other at worst, or within 10% of the middle number. so if your average one is 140, the others should be between 126 and 156.
            I've been brushing my teeth with jack but it's resulted in terrible amounts of tooth decay.

            Comment


            • #7
              haha anyone that brings honda motor tech into the RB world needs a wake up call. High compression N/A motors will always do a considerably different compression test than a really low compression turbo motor lol

              Kyle
              Originally posted by funkymonkey
              You guys need to set up an RSPCS (Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Skylines) and take a baseball bat to the heads of owners that bring disrespect to the heritage by being metrosexual knob jockeys behind the steering wheel.

              Comment


              • #8
                not so much the pedal to the floor but to have the trottle body wide open for air to reach the cylinders with ease i would guess. just how i was told to do one when i did my first test

                Kyle
                Originally posted by funkymonkey
                You guys need to set up an RSPCS (Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Skylines) and take a baseball bat to the heads of owners that bring disrespect to the heritage by being metrosexual knob jockeys behind the steering wheel.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by DrMango View Post
                  but typically arent you supposed to crank on a consistant battery at running temp? and i know ive heard people say make sure the pedal is to the floor..
                  McFly is right though. almost every RB that ive seen that was considered in good running order was around 140-150 area. ive never seen one in the 160s consistantly across the 6 cylinder

                  btw how many cranks did they do per cylinder?

                  Kyle
                  certainly, but the numbers were good so i wasnt going to bother about the way they did it. There are enough threads regarding that.

                  It's all dependent on the starter as the psi rating is for 300rpm.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    ive had my motor compression tested twice since ownership... it was done by 2 different mechanics, and both times the #'s came out the same... the motor was warm before each test and im not sure wether they held the throttle open or not,

                    but i observed both times, one time had a digital gauge and the other a mechanical. and ya both times they had to hook up the battery to another source as the battery wouldnt push past a few cranks!

                    anyways both times my motor saw compression #'s above 160... typically 165 plus or minus 4 PSI... mostly minus though lol....

                    on another note ive seen people run their motors for a few years after a compression test showsed 120! they just up the boost! lol
                    The SkyLife Community & News Website --> http://www.skylife4ever.com

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by mcfly View Post
                      those numbers are good and you are allowed up to 14 psi deviation between cylinders on a healthy engine.

                      171 may be the nissan "new" spec but I have yet to see even a rebuilt rb pull 170's. One of those mythical numbers. You have a healthy used engine though. Maybe they are used to higher static compression motors and are basing their numbers off past results.
                      I don't know if my tester is reading bs number but I did a compression test on my gtr and pulled 170(-1 or 2 ) on the first four and #5 and #6 read 165.I re tested later on and same numbers showed up
                      My car keeps on stealing my money .

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Yeah I'm not sure why the honda motor was brought up.
                        From the speech, probably to emphasis that my numbers were low...

                        But the numbers were more or less consistent.
                        They would all be within 10% for sure.
                        The test was dry, but I guess a wet test could have been done if there was a concern with a particular cylinder.

                        If the pressure is too high wouldn't we have problems with detonation?

                        Hmm, so I guess the numbers are good as is.
                        Though I still think the proper way to do it is with a battery hooked up and throddle open.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          i would say that if someone is getting 170(DJ)compression on your test, then its likely you have a rebuild motor. just my guess. either way, good car to own

                          Kyle
                          Originally posted by funkymonkey
                          You guys need to set up an RSPCS (Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Skylines) and take a baseball bat to the heads of owners that bring disrespect to the heritage by being metrosexual knob jockeys behind the steering wheel.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by DJ View Post
                            I don't know if my tester is reading bs number but I did a compression test on my gtr and pulled 170(-1 or 2 ) on the first four and #5 and #6 read 165.I re tested later on and same numbers showed up
                            i would bet on your starter being very happy with you

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by mcfly View Post
                              i would bet on your starter being very happy with you
                              Yea...I thought about that
                              My car keeps on stealing my money .

                              Comment

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