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  • #16
    Would it be a good idea to just run the fronts (since they are smaller) off the deck and the 6.5's and sub off a 3chan amp?
    Sideways is the best ways.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Prophetic View Post
      Would it be a good idea to just run the fronts (since they are smaller) off the deck and the 6.5's and sub off a 3chan amp?
      It doesn't really matter about the size of the speaker, it's about how much power the speaker can take. Esentially u will want to run the weaker pair off the deck because the deck will not put out as near power the amp will. So with a lower rated speaker, it will sounds better with the deck. Ur best bet is to use the 4 channel just for the speakers and get a mono amp similar to the sub rating ur going to be using. A sub uses a lot of power and hooking all up to the same amp will possibly fry the amp. What kind of sub do u have?
      FVI .ca
      "We arn't just Importers, we are Owners"

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      1990 Nissan Skyline GT-R - SOLD :-(

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      • #18
        Speaker size don't mean jack sh*t, the most important thing is power handling. I'm running 1" MBQuart tweeter rated at 150w rms @ 4 ohms at rated power, haven't died yet! The smaller the driver (tweeter) the higher the frequency they reproduce, vice-versa for larger drivers, hence the use of cross-over filters to protect them from damaging frequencies.
        What's the specs for your speakers, sub, and amp (ohms / rms wattage)? This will help us help you get a good set up.
        Originally posted by Snow
        Sure a condom holds water but you don't see me drinking from one.

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        • #19
          Yo,

          I'm doing awesomesauce! :P Thanks! XD

          If you don't need subs, you've saved yourself a lot of money then. lol

          1. Front:4x6, Rear:6.5 I'd recommend going for bigger speakers where possible, that way they don't struggle when trying to push out low tones. Either that or use a cross over to filter the highs to the small speakers and the lows to the bigger speakers. However with rock & old school metal, they focus round the mid range so it shouldn't really be a concern. If you are intending to go big, 6.5 in the front & 6x9 in the back... there will be some cutting. Once you make a wrong cut, you are screwed. lol

          For myself, I opted for Infinity Kappas. On paper they're top of the line but I haven't been able to compare them to Alpine Type X's yet so I can't say which is better; yet. :P If you can find a better deal on JBL with the same specs as the Highend Kappa's or X's then you should be fine in terms of audio quality as JBL is a brand name under the same company as Infinity, which is Harman. However, if you can, listen before you buy. Sure, the Kappa's look the best on paper but the sound quality from the pricier Type X's could be better. Then again, can't tell as I couldn't find a local shop anywhere selling high end JBL's, Type X's or Kappa's anywhere. The reason I opted for the Kappa's is that Peak & RMS wattage outperforms the competition, that and I managed to find a whole speaker set for as low as $320 with Shipping, COD & Duty included. :P

          2. With an Infinity setup, it's best to get a Sony Xplod ZR Series 4/3/2 Channel Car Amplifier (XMZR704). Reason being is that it has a lot of power but not as much where it'd blow your speakers. That and it has a lot of options to match any speaker setup so it's great if you want to swap it into a newer car or change speakers. Also it's on sale at Visions for a $100 bucks instead of $250. :P

          Alpines are GREAT AMPS. The only thing would be the cost concern as they're incredibly pricey.

          3. Depends on what you need. For myself I needed bluetooth and auxilary input on the deck fascia so I opted for the Sony BTX-2700. That and it puts out 40watts which is plenty enough for me to go deaf so there's no need to install an amp; yet.

          If you're going for looks, first find some decks that matches the look you're going for then, based on your needs, (lcd visuals? bluetooth? ipod? cd inlet(no motorized fascia)? aux in? motorized fascia(for putting in cds if there's no cd inlet)? usb in? rearview camera capable? gps?) eliminate the decks that don't make your checklist and you should filter out the perfect deck that's right for you.

          4. It is incredibly easy to DIY (only used a phillips, a flat head, electrical tape & scissors for my install lol). Then again, I'm good with my hands. I'd do a video tutorial if I could just find a vid cam to borrow. lol

          If I have time I can post up a picture tutorial on removing the door panels and installing the front and rear speakers. I've taken the pictures, just haven't found the time to put it together.

          5. Overall you have the right idea for your genre interest. The issue is obtaining the right deck.

          Also about the dynamat thing. Really isn't necessary unless you want to silence your car where if you had the windows rolled up, no one can hear you from the outside at all. But where's the fun in that? lol

          My current setup in my car right now is only $625 with everything; no amp, no dual battery system, no battery brain (to automatically kill the system just before the battery completely drains, where it has enough juice to start the car once), no amp kit, no subs.

          ...yet. :P

          =============

          P.S. Just realized how old the post is. Boy do I feel stupid, oh well. Not going to waste a perfectly good type up. :P

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