question bout engine oil

[Dragon Humper]

7000km and 6 oil changes? Isn't that a bit too far apart? Have you tried walmart oil?

Rotella T usually goes about 6000km between oil changes so I am changing it out WAY more than I should. BUT.....I only change it at the begining of the season and then halfway through. I changed it 4 times the first year I had it to flush all the old black crap out of the engine, Rotella has alot of detergents in it, it's ment for diesels (which is why I use it, for the zinc and phosphorus that no passanger car oil has anymore).

WallyWorld is where I get it from, by far the cheapest, unless Crappy tire is having a sale.


Jon.

[LIGHTSPD]

Oh I am going to get in an argument about Rotella again but I have been down this road several times. I personally use GM EOS after every engine build I do mainly because of the phosphorus contained with in however the Rotella I did some of my own research on and here is the things that came back. Some other forums were stating that this was the best oil to run and one so called expert "bob then oil guy" so I checked it out.

I took the liberty of doing my own research on this oil not running like lemmings.

1.) First and foremost wear point and protection were really good quite comparable with the Motul EcoEnergy

2.) Pour point at -25C was quite thick better than a conventional but not better than some of the other synthetics on the market.

3.) So obviously this oil was made from a good base stock and for those who don't know the only thing that separates oil is base stock and then the additive package engineered for the oil.

So with this information I decided to call Shell and ask them about this oil and I have a number for their engineering dept if any of you want to call yourself.

Here is what they said condensed from a 45 minute conversation.

a) This oil is designed to run at no more than 4500 RPM any more and it sheads to fast.

b) This oil has an additive package designed solely for the combustion by of a diesel engine which means.

i) It has more aggressive containment of by products of combustion
ii) It has more aggressive detergent level than should be used in a gas automobile because diesels have different by products from the combustion and are dirtier.
iii)I probably spelling this wrong but the emulsion (capabilities of this oil is to hold much larger particles than you would find in gasoline engine.
iv)It is not capable of holding the contaminants found on smaller motors.
v)The shearability of the molecular structure is not for high rpm engines.

4. Here's the best part from one of the engineers who creates this oil. "DO NOT RUN THIS IN A HIGH RPM GASOLINE MOTOR"

So you have your choice Bob the oil guy or one of the engineers who created the oil. I put this up with the internet rumor of running your injectors more than 85% will burn them out.

I kept an open mind and had it independently tested and was interested right up until I talked to the engineer. Your choice but I will not recommend this to our clients.

So it is a high quality oil for a diesel NOT GAS.

[derk]

noone here uses 0 weight?

0 weight oil would be a very bad idea.

im assuming that you have the 0w number confused with the second set of numbers, which is the actual weight.

ie: 0w30 is a 30 weight, 0w40 is a 40 weight, 15w50 is a 50 weight. etc.

[derk]

Oh I am going to get in an argument about Rotella again but I have been down this road several times. I personally use GM EOS after every engine build I do mainly because of the phosphorus contained with in however the Rotella I did some of my own research on and here is the things that came back. Some other forums were stating that this was the best oil to run and one so called expert "bob then oil guy" so I checked it out.

I took the liberty of doing my own research on this oil not running like lemmings.

1.) First and foremost wear point and protection were really good quite comparable with the Motul EcoEnergy

2.) Pour point at -25C was quite thick better than a conventional but not better than some of the other synthetics on the market.

3.) So obviously this oil was made from a good base stock and for those who don't know the only thing that separates oil is base stock and then the additive package engineered for the oil.

So with this information I decided to call Shell and ask them about this oil and I have a number for their engineering dept if any of you want to call yourself.

Here is what they said condensed from a 45 minute conversation.

a) This oil is designed to run at no more than 4500 RPM any more and it sheads to fast.

b) This oil has an additive package designed solely for the combustion by of a diesel engine which means.

i) It has more aggressive containment of by products of combustion
ii) It has more aggressive detergent level than should be used in a gas automobile because diesels have different by products from the combustion and are dirtier.
iii)I probably spelling this wrong but the emulsion (capabilities of this oil is to hold much larger particles than you would find in gasoline engine.
iv)It is not capable of holding the contaminants found on smaller motors.
v)The shearability of the molecular structure is not for high rpm engines.

4. Here's the best part from one of the engineers who creates this oil. "DO NOT RUN THIS IN A HIGH RPM GASOLINE MOTOR"

So you have your choice Bob the oil guy or one of the engineers who created the oil. I put this up with the internet rumor of running your injectors more than 85% will burn them out.

I kept an open mind and had it independently tested and was interested right up until I talked to the engineer. Your choice but I will not recommend this to our clients.

So it is a high quality oil for a diesel NOT GAS.

yep! Rotella T is a great oil for diesel, i run Rotella T 0w40 in my Hilux all year round, it slaps alot less in the winter than running 5w

[DarkCaporaL]

oil pressure guage before read about 6.0 at idle with the old oil, now its around 2, is it bad?

Around 2 is about right for idle.

You were reading 6 at idle before...!? That is insane.

You were 6bar at idle before, Jebus!! That is way to thick, that's gotta be like 80w90 diff fluid thickness. That puts ALOT of stress on an already inherently weak oil pump. You are lucky you didn't pop anything at that pressure. 2bar is about right at idle (~30psi).

That 6 bar was probably on a cold start. It's not uncommon for the oil pressure to be at 5-6 bar when you first start it, and slowly go down within a couple minutes to settle at 2 bar at operating temp.

[Dragon Humper]

Even with 15w40 diesel oil (and my additions) I never go over 4 bar (that's ~60psi !!) at cold start, even at 3 deg.s C.

If Rotella was shearing and causing lubrication issues, I would be able to smell it from the bearings. I don't just run the oil though, I also use about 200ml of Lucas and a bottle of EOS. Lucas gets used in 6000hp TopFuel motors that spin at 8000rpm so that should bolster any shearing issues. That is also why I change it out more often than I should. I will usually do 2 changes a year at about $40 per change, so I am still cheaper than the favourite oils and synth. filters and have better protection (there is no substitute for zinc and phosphorus).

I'll bet that engineer couldn't give you an answer to the question of whether a standard lifter in a BBC (non-roller) is properly protected with any of the passenger car oils that they make. That answer would be no, he probably wouldn't tell you that though.

*edit*

Now that I think about it a bit Cam, I bet the "engineer" in question didn't specify whether he was talking about a Diesel engine spinning at 4500rpm or a passanger car engine. You see the actual bearing speed on a Diesel engine is about twice as fast as a passenger car engine (because the brgings are about twice the size C=pi x D) so a crank spinning at 4500rpm with 4inch dia. brgings will have twice the brging surface speed of a crank with only 2 inch brgings. So we are right in the limits of the oil, most RBs are maxing out at about 7500rpm (if he was basing that on the tested limits of the oil, on Diesels).

I'll bet that he told you that because he has to, the EPA would come down on them hard if they were publically telling people to use an oil that has additives in it that will hurt emissions (which is why they were pulled out of pass. car oil in the first place).



Jon.

[M13]

0 weight oil would be a very bad idea.

im assuming that you have the 0w number confused with the second set of numbers, which is the actual weight.

ie: 0w30 is a 30 weight, 0w40 is a 40 weight, 15w50 is a 50 weight. etc.

0 weight would be good if our engines had operational temp of 40Celsius LOL.

PPL always get this confused:

0W-30 is not much thinner than 5W-30.

The W is cold-start temp viscosity rating. "0 weight" is still thicker than 30 weight at operational temp. Oil gets thinner as it warms up, but the additives in the 0W30 makes the oil behave as 0 weight @ cold start but goes back to its stock oil of 30 weight when it's at operational temp.

[jschrauwen]

I've just used up the last of my supply of Motul 300V 15W50.
I'm looking to try Eneos 0W50 but can't seem to find listings/addresses for retailers/vendors of it.
It would be nice to find a supplier in the belleville area but i think I may have to look east towards the GTA area for it.
Anyone able to give a listing of various vendors for Eneos oil?

[Bruizer]

I use 5-30 and 5-30. I rev to 9500 and change the oil regularly every 5-7000km. No need for big number oils if you live north of mexico lol

I have 5 or 6 bottle of Eneos 0W50 which I don't need, if you want them. Motul is good but I can't get any where I have an AMSoil account. I like oil that has many years of proven service.

[Marke]

15w50 is to heavy for street use. 300v is great stuff for competition, but it breaks down quicker that most synthetics according to the local Motul dealer and needs changing more frequently. So for street use probably not the best value.

The bnr32 manual recommends 7.5w30 (good luck finding that), but the bnr34 manual recommends 5w40.

Because I use my GTR pretty much solely for competition I run Royal Purple 10w40 and have done so for the last 5 years.

I would recommend 5w40 or 10w40 full synthetic by Amsoil, Royal Purple, Redline or Pensoil Platinum.

[LIGHTSPD]

300v does not break down quicker it has a higher consumption rate. This is because of the size of its molecular structure. It is rated as base stock 5.5 this is the only problem with it and as a mattter of fact can be used longer than most because of the higher base stock. Is way over kill for street use but I have seen it hold together motors that should have blown up.

The next step down is Motul X-max which is an Ester based product as well which is a base 5.0

One step down from that is Motul Xcess Energy( Eco Energy) which is a base stock 4.0 as a PAO base. This is the same base stock as the Amsoil, Royal Purple and Red Line.

Your Penzoil Platinum is called a synthetic but not allowed to be marketed as such in Europe because they start with a base stock 3.0 Hydrocracked(probabaly spelt wrong) so it falls in the category of mobil1 and Castrol Syntech.

15w50 is to heavy for street use. 300v is great stuff for competition, but it breaks down quicker that most synthetics according to the local Motul dealer and needs changing more frequently. So for street use probably not the best value.

The bnr32 manual recommends 7.5w30 (good luck finding that), but the bnr34 manual recommends 5w40.

Because I use my GTR pretty much solely for competition I run Royal Purple 10w40 and have done so for the last 5 years.

I would recommend 5w40 or 10w40 full synthetic by Amsoil, Royal Purple, Redline or Pensoil Platinum.

[Marke]

^^^ By higher consumption do you mean how much is burnt up during combustion?

I figured Penzoil Platinum would be at least 4. Go figure.

[LIGHTSPD]

Yes higher consumption from burning. Basically some oil always gets left on the cylinder walls. The smaller the molecule the higher the consumption.