Aftermarket trans options for rb26

[Black BNR32]

what about the big power seen at world time attack recently? the sse car made 750whp on its old efr 8374, and now on a 9180. the hi octane r34? at least as much im guessing. the xs r32 claims 850.

[jrhdohc]

rated at 750hp but handles more.

http://www.quaife.co.uk/shop/products/qbe33g-2

on the hp topic...
it depends on course, size, tire, and down force.
i think... stock body, street performance tires, medium to small track... 550whp is best.
if you're on big F1 track like Fuji Speedway or the new track being built in Austin, TX... same car on big track might handle 800whp.
guess driver skill and budget should be thrown into the mix.
550whp should last a few years...
800whp might need a rebuild once a season.
1000whp pop a motor ruining everything one or twice. i don't think it's fun to drive that way. it would be ok if i was getting everything free and had a back up race car to play with.

i think... the R32 GTR should fix the stock short comings, exploit it's strengths and expose competitions weakness.
for 100% time attack race car , stock short comings: 1. weight 2. brakes 3. understeer (suspesion&downforce) 4. power. (fun street/track car: 1. brakes 2. power 3. understeer (suspension) 4. weight)

i think if you're serious about building a hardcore time attack project... get these short comings worked out 1. weight 2. brakes 3. understeer. then practice practice practice... get all the bugs out. once you've conquered those steps move to 4. power. this will save losts of wear and tear on your top big dog drivetrain.
plus, improvements in weight, brakes and handling will be see more on a lower powered car. for example 1min 15sec around a track... change the suspesion set-up drops to 1:13.500... easy to see. if you're at high hp... might run 58sec same change might be 57.800. Difficult to know if driver, temperature, tire wear, or fluke...
of course, handling will need to be retuned for your final power level but basic set-up and lessons learned can be used. setting up geometry, spring&damper rates, tires compound, pressure, etc... can be pretty fun. it's really too bad more people don't have access to circuits.

[Black BNR32]

it is too bad. i would build a curcuit car if a track was closer. thankfully, autocross is more accessible. i encourage everybody to try it out!

[Bruizer]

A-freaking-men Bruizer

haha. I commute with a 240sx in fort mac, pulsar GTiR in Red deer (newly purchased) and the murano for inbetween. The GTR is the winter beater now.

[Dragon Humper]

If you think a dog box is streetable, you are mistaken, given what I and probably some others, take streetable to mean. When I say streetable, I mean a car that can be driven in the city in traffic with ease and comfort and convenience... Essentially practicality to be driven on a regular basis. If you enjoy dropping a tranny every couple hundred km to inspect it, then a Dog is for you!

As for the insurance, it will just like any other performance upgrade you add on your car, will have your insurance denying coverage should you have to get it re-inspected. This is a by-the-book thing as opposed to a "don't do it, you won't get insurance thing". My bad for having it taken incorrectly

I really don't know where people keep getting this missinformation about dog-boxes needing to be serviced every other month. They are very, nay, incredibly robust and can go at least 100k km in a street car that does the occational track day. The only reason that a dog enguagement tranny would get torn down would be to check on the condition of the dogs themselves. Not because it needs to be rebuilt, but because race teams just do that as a matter of course. Big Rigs can go a million miles without the dogs falling apart in their trannies, you think that these offerings are going to be so weak and soft that you won't be able to get at least 1/10 of the amount of time out of them? You can't even start to compare the abuse that a dog tranny in a fully campained 600hp circuit car would get in a full season of racing ( at which point they MAY rebuild it) to a guy with a 700hp street car (with street tires I might add, who drives most of the time at the 450hp level, like me) that likes to honk on it every once in a while.

You also really need to figure out whether you are talking about a STREET car or a DAILY DRIVER as there is, again, a big difference between the two. And again, I would drive a dog-box in even a daily driven car to and from work, they are that easy to drive. Anyone with a tranny that has syncros that are starting to go already know what it is like to live with a dog-box, the gear enguagement is quite similar (but nicer with the dogs as they just slip together instead of you having to force it. You will also need to learn how to drive a standard all over again (the right way) without the syncros masking the fact that you have no idea how to rev-match. With practice, no-one would ever know that you have a dog-box, and that skill alone will make it last more than 100k km.

Example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_1jO64tuQA

Insurance in this province could give a rat's ass what kind of transmission you have (they don't really care about performance mods either, NO2 is a party foul though). Even though you have private insurance I really doubt that a "stronger transmission, or clutch, or rear diff., or better tires, or better brake pads/rotors....etc" would have anything to do with any inspection process or insurability. I seriously doubt that they would have a problem with the carbon ceramic "severe duty" brake pads that are on my police car and reffer to them as a "performance part" VS the terrible stock pads that are on the civilian cars. Brakes and transmissions add no horsepower and could not increase the risk factor of your car (they actually make them safer).



Jon.

[Dragon Humper]

rated at 750hp but handles more.

http://www.quaife.co.uk/shop/products/qbe33g-2

... can be pretty fun. it's really too bad more people don't have access to circuits.

You said it, the only track in BC is 3 hours away from me and covered in water 300 days out of the year (rain). There is a fantastic CART track in Quesnel, but sadly, too small for full size cars.

Jon.

[hozer]

This is what sums up my opinion better than my words were.

Yes you can, no you shouldn't

[Dragon Humper]

Lame.



Jon.

[BRN32]

Dog box on the street will be the same as a Muncie "rock crusher" 4spd, double clutch or rev match=easy as pie...

[Terrh]

Huge horsepower isn't fun on a road course?

Man, that's news to me. I've never driven anything anywhere ever and thought "man, I wish this had less horsepower". The only time more power doesn't = more fast is when you have the power to spin the tires. If you've got enough horsepower to spin all 4 tires at 250kph on the back straight at mosport, then maybe adding horsepower doesn't make sense. When my car gets to that level I'll let you guys know. LOL. I think the "doesn't need more power" point for a street/roadcourse car that weighs 3000lbs is somewhere around 2000 horsepower. And I bet even if I ever did have that many, the first time I ran into someone faster I'd want more.

The whole "dogs vs syncros" argument is overblown. Dogs last forever, work fine, let your trans shift faster, and make horrible noises. There's no reason to or not to use them aside from personal preference. I'll never go dogs in something I street drive because I don't like the clunky clunky and like to not sweat rev matching perfectly when I'm trying to simultaneously juggle standing on the brake pedal without locking the tires up and keep the car pointed the direction I want it to go while keeping it on the blacktop. It's just one less thing for my feeble brain to wrap around and maybe it'll never matter but maybe it will. But still, it's mostly the noises they make. (I've put about 1000km on a dogbox on the street, I'm speaking from experience here.)

Besides, Syncros or not, skylines break the teeth off the gears, so it all boils down to what you want - they aren't the weak link in the chain. If I was building an all out drag box it'd have dogs in it (and only 4 gears).

Where are people getting OSG gearsets, and how much are you paying for them? I can't even find a local distributor. I almost wonder if I should bring my trans guts over to liberty and pay them a grand or whatever they'd charge to make me a stronger main/counter gearset. I should give them a call and find out.

Sorry if I rambled a bit there, 3AM and I should be in bed. hah.

[Skym]

Doesn't a R35GTR automatically do that rev matching when down shifting???

AMS Alpha 12, 1500hp, 8 sec capable street car with full interior, etc -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNoo2r1q_0A

R35GTR Trans was built by Sheptrans in the states -

http://www.sheptrans.com/

They seem to use PPG gearbox internals.

[gtrjerry73]

I've seen that r35 it's amazing and looks very streetable if you could get a tranny like that then you would be set ... And broke. In my opinion, lots of ppl have thousand horse power cars but they don't consider them reliable. If they are, then they have spent alot of time and money working out kinks and rebuilding just about everything finding the weakpoints of the car. I do agree with a few of the points mentioned about 1000 hp being a little much. Unless you are planning on competing at a world class level (you shouldn't be worried about a 12 thousand dollar tranny if that's the case) then I doubt you will ever hit a track big enough to get the turbo spooled in corner exits. You need a pretty responsive car for smaller tracks. I have no doubt that it will be a monster but if you want that kind of power I would say drag the thing. I'm not trying to criticize your choice, this is just what I honestly feel to be true 5-600 horse would probably be your sweet spot for a balanced time attack car. You will need to spend a great deal of time and money on suspension tires and tweaking for a time attack car. Are you planning on running it on a big track? What kind of turbo setup were you looking at?