Need advice/help winter build!!

[gtrjon]

FYI, I am sporting a stock dampner and a stock oil pump. I have been reving the motor to 8500 for 3 seasons now and missed about 5 shifts into 3rd gear (motor and granny still in good shape) so you needn't be too worried about that stuff. Just run good oil and keep the level high and you will be fine.

Realisticly though, 600whp is about 700 at the crank so you are hoping to push it pretty far. I am about 800 at the crank and have the second biggest turbo there is for an RB with 1000cc squirters and the full Trust kit to go with the turbo. I would say just push the turbos you have now to the limit and be happy with that, and make sure you have 94 octane in the tank.



Jon.

to be fair though Jon you do not know what internals your have in your bottom end nor what oil pump you are running. im guessing you have a built bottom end because your the only person i have heard of making this kind of power with how hard you drive it on a
"stock motor"

[Dragon Humper]

Pump is either stock N1 or stock with aftermarket gears, nothing like the crazyness of a Tomei or a Nismo. Although I haven't had it apart yet I can't see there being much more than pistons and prepped rods and aftermarket rod bolts. This car was built to drag race not road race, so the level of bulletproofing won't be nearly as high. Doesn't mean you can't make obsene power in short bursts. The turbo kit I have is a big help too. With the gigantic intercooler and huge turbo the intake temps never get much more than 5 deg. above ambient (right now the never get above 15 deg.C). That is a huge advantage.

Here is what I know I have;

HKS low lift cams @ 8.9mm lift
Forged pistons
Stockish oil pump
Stock oil pan with maybe some baffling


And to be fair to you, machining costs a small fortune, I was into my 454 for about $3500 in machining alone, but that is how you get stock parts to make tripple the amount of power they were designed to do. I made about 700 HP on a cast crank, stock rods and a 150 shot of spray. Engine is 10 years old now and still going strong (I am still in contact with the guy I sold it to).

With the added work of the RB head and doing absolutely eveything to make it all perfect, expect to pay at least $3000 in machine shop fees.



Jon.

[gtrjon]

With the added work of the RB head and doing absolutely eveything to make it all perfect, expect to pay at least $3000 in machine shop fees.



Jon.

I priced out about 4 shops in the lowermainland for machining before i had mine done which as you can tell from my parts list i had everything done except a port and polish. Even had them install my magnesium valve guides. anyway out the door with everything done right will cost you $1800-$2500 depending where you go

[hozer]

Sure any one can make 600whp, I can buy a turbo off a plane for 3k and hook it up for 1000WHP, doesnt mean its any good to me. Having 600WHP and 600 USEFUL WHP is a totally different category and you spend accordingly.

Stretching the capablilies of the RB to 600WHP is possible, but buidling it to manage 600WHP is not the same.

Compare it to a jet engine:
They are capable of 50-60% more power than they output, but reliability is far more important so they build a 5000HP engine and run it at 2500HP (random numbers) for reliablility sake. Yes the engine will do 5000HP and probably be fine, but for most, 'probably be fine' is not acceptable.

Can you do 600WHP for sub 10k, absolutley... Should you? thats your call.

Build to suit your application, if you just want 600WHP to say "Yo I have 600WHP" then I agree 100% with you, it can be done cheaply. But if you wanna track it or rip on it you may encounter some issues.

[mikey]

Hozer,

I agree with you on some things, not all though. There's no point in arguing over in it here and ruining the OP's thread so I guess we'll agree to disagree.


Gtrjon,
AH HA! I knew it. I had a feeling you were including chassis parts and all that jazz into the price of the build, my argument is based on just engine specific components and nothing else.

I do have one question for you guys though;

Why would building a 600whp single turbo cost any more than a 600whp twin turbo? it sure seems like you guys are making it out to be the end of the world when there is basically no difference.
most people just bolt on some gt2860's and go with the assumption that everything is peachy when in fact you're no safer than some one who just bolted on a gt35r and a fleabay manifold.

OP,
I guess it's completely up to you. As far as I am concerned, the cost between 600whp single and 600whp twin is negligible at that point, once you figure in all the supporting mods either route is going to cost a huge chunk of change.

[gtrjon]

Hozer,

Gtrjon,
AH HA! I knew it. I had a feeling you were including chassis parts and all that jazz into the price of the build, my argument is based on just engine specific components and nothing else.

I do have one question for you guys though;

Why would building a 600whp single turbo cost any more than a 600whp twin turbo? it sure seems like you guys are making it out to be the end of the world when there is basically no difference.
most people just bolt on some gt2860's and go with the assumption that everything is peachy when in fact you're no safer than some one who just bolted on a gt35r and a fleabay manifold.

lol the suspension pieces are not included in the 20k as they came on my car. although i did include the clutch. yes it can be done cheap but not done well for cheap like hozer said. but you are right going single is no more expensive than doing a nice twin set up in fact going single might even be cheaper then a twin set up with -5s and tomei expreme manifolds etc. going single had nothing to do with the $ in my case but more the simplicity factor. going single is not hard and cleans up your engine bay imo.