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  • #16
    Originally posted by NismoS-tune View Post
    My cracked block is an older R32 short snout and the nickel content doesn't matter when it comes to cracks. What is odd that all the blocks I've heard of cracking were running ARP head studs which are 45ft/lbs more torque to install... hmm. Mine cracked after 1200km. Another local guy didn't last the break in tune. Different builders.
    completely irrelevant since any build you ever hear of over stock power has a head gasket and head studs. show me a build making over 500whp without arp head studs.
    1991 Nissan Skyline R32 GT-R: 710whp 521 ft/lbs 27.5psi 11.8 @126mph low boost

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    • #17
      Resistance to cracking is also the main reason for having the higher nickel blocks. It makes the cast iron a touch less rigid, easier to machine and able to absorb more harmonics before fracturing. A pre-seasoned high-nickle block is definately the way to go...as long as the cyl walls aren't too thin or cast a little cocked. A new N1 block should have passed a sonic and Xray test at the factory for that kind of dough.



      Jon.
      Why don't you come over to MySpace and Twitter my Yahoo untill I Google all over your Facebook.

      1990 GTR Drag Special T88H34D 11.24 @ 127.55mph at only 1.2bar...... officially. SOLD

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      • #18
        Originally posted by gtrjon View Post
        completely irrelevant since any build you ever hear of over stock power has a head gasket and head studs. show me a build making over 500whp without arp head studs.
        It's not a fact just an observation, don't panic, you're block is fine I'm sure.

        I was talking to a machinist who said that it was quite possibly cracked due to the 45 pound increase in torque to the thread and the places it crack were simply the closes and thinnest.

        Irrelevant yes. What is for sure is that RB26 blocks crack at the coolant jacket to stud holes and are rod bearing spinners haha.
        Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
        Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
        Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
        Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
        Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
        White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

        Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

        start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
        lol

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        • #19
          Originally posted by NismoS-tune View Post
          It's not a fact just an observation, don't panic, you're block is fine I'm sure.

          I was talking to a machinist who said that it was quite possibly cracked due to the 45 pound increase in torque to the thread and the places it crack were simply the closes and thinnest.

          Irrelevant yes. What is for sure is that RB26 blocks crack at the coolant jacket to stud holes and are rod bearing spinners haha.
          **** the 26 grab a 2jz i think is what we have come to with this thread.
          1991 Nissan Skyline R32 GT-R: 710whp 521 ft/lbs 27.5psi 11.8 @126mph low boost

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          • #20
            lol too many 2JZs out there for me but yeah big power engine with stock internals!

            I'm trying to take the V8 route but the loss of AWD is a problem for me
            Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
            Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
            Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
            Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
            Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
            White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

            Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

            start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
            lol

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            • #21
              maybe a bit irrelavent, but interesting none the less...800awhp on stock r34 rb
              Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Marus92 View Post
                I can see the stabilizing (low temp cycling softens the alloy structure and diffuses internal material stresses) but does it really harden?

                Asking because in theory low delta (high to low temp difference) cycling makes metals softer and more resilient to high energy imputs (more malleable), not harder. Harder would require (extreme) high heat / low heat shock (quench).
                Hardening is the wrong word. I believe he was thinking of tempering. Where by removing hardness (I know sounds counter intuitive) ductility is increased causing the metal to become less brittle (ie less likely to crack)
                Also you would think a higher temp difference would accomplish this but in actually a lower temperature is preferred otherwise too much hardness is removed causing the metal to have a lower yield and tensile strength. For example a hammer would be tempered at a lower temperature than a spring because a hammer when struck must maintain it's shape (requiring a high yield and tensile strength) where as a spring when put understress must not crack therefore some yield and tensile strength is given up in order to increase elasticity.

                Hope that helped!
                Last edited by tman7878; 11-15-2012, 01:33 PM.
                1991 240sx - rb26dett

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                • #23
                  can i get a copy of that JDM book?

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