Help for rb26dett rebuild ( Questions )

[SheSquats_Bro]

quick summary, I am rebuilding my 1990 nissan skyline gtr rb26dett. I am going with the forged internals (pistons, conrods, cams, etc.)

I am going to school for auto mechanics but obviously havent learned everything yet, but am definitely mechanicly inclined.

( for a clear idea, I am going for a track/street car, not worried to much about appearance at the moment )

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/CP-86-5mm-8-5-1-Pistons-Brian-Crower-H-Beam-Rods-Skyline-RB26DETT-R32-R33-R34-/290725627074?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43b09904c2&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1

would this be a good buy? or what other brands are good and affordable for a full time student. What do i need and replace during the build.

any advice of what to do or what NOT to do will be very helpful and appreciated.

Thanks fellow GTRC'rs!

[Bruizer]

Cool. I've been where you are. I hired a shop in BC for my first build which cost $15k. Less than 3 months later (after getting the engine back) I had to rebuild the engine again which cost $1000 but turned into a crack block. Round 3 is a whole new engine with a different shop again. Trying to stay under $20k this time around.

Moral of the story is, be prepared to feel the cost of local shops!

I'd personally stick with a new/stock engine until 500whp unless you need an engine... I think you can buy an N1 long block for as cheap as $8000. No need to rely on local shop lack of experience.
Worst decision I ever made was to rebuild an engine that was fine other than being limited at 500whp.

[SheSquats_Bro]

Lol I appreciate your input. But I guess I forgot to mention that I doing the rebuild myself and with the help and tools of my uncle who has been a mechanic for 30 years and a pro drag racer but with muscle cars. He owned his own shop for 23 years. So he def knows what he is doing but doesn't know much about imports. So that being said the cost to rebuild the engine shouldn't be that much for me because the labour is done myself and giving myself a years time to do it. Long term goal is to have a big single top mount turbo.

[Skym]

I think Tomei make the best pistons (cooling wise).

But can buy RB26 forged rebuild kits from here (would change to Tomei metal gasket as found in Tomei gasket kit) -

http://www.spoolimports.com/spool-engine-rebuild-kits/nissan-rb26dett-rebuild-kit

Some say it's best to buy direct from piston manufacturer (cheaper) for the pistons.

The basic specs are here for Tomei RB26 crate engines (what parts need to be replaced to make it a reliable track engine) -

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e034_rb26dett.html

and

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/000_complete-engine/en_engine_rb26dett.htm

From cheaper budget 480hp trackday build with stock block, stock I beam forged conrods with ARP rod bolts to the higher hp, more expensive fully forged internals (H beam conrods), N1 block, etc. Also there's upgraded HKS valve seals (better than stock) which are not shown in those specs for higher reving RB26 engines.

If going to the bigger Tomei oil pump with higher hp RB26 engines (above 480hp at engine), run a modified bigger capacity stock sump (9 litres or so, but double check sump capacity with calculations) with box section around pickup, rubber or metal hinge type one way trap doors to let oil in towards the pickup, but not out of the box section. Also could use the old swinging pickup setup from V8's (ask your Uncle), as used on N1 endurance RB26 engines.

Also Tomei mention most of the weak area's here with RB26 engine if you want to read -

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/efr_index.html

[Alak]

Buy a notebook and some pens. Measure everything as you take it apart. Everything.

Set a goal and build from there. I dont build an engine capable of running 800HP when I know it will never break 450. Engine Balance and Part selection is important. Just because it was expensive and has a big name brand on it dont mean anything. Lots of information and knowledge around here. Your best bet is to sit a spend a weekend reading other peoples builds and see what others have done.

[Bruizer]

. Your best bet is to sit a spend a weekend reading other peoples builds and see what others have done.

And be sure to pay attention to what failed in most of those threads. Knowing the weaknesses is as important in knowing the strengths of other people's builds. You'll find that not only the back yard builders make mistake but also high end shops. Even tomei strokers fail prematurely sometimes.

Do make a build thread, I'd like to follow your journey.

[turdzoplenty]

And be sure to pay attention to what failed in most of those threads. Knowing the weaknesses is as important in knowing the strengths of other people's builds. You'll find that not only the back yard builders make mistake but also high end shops. Even tomei strokers fail prematurely sometimes.

Do make a build thread, I'd like to follow your journey.

Its not rocket science to build an engine that will last. There is no "close enough" when it comes to clearances. Block prep is critical, and magnaflux anything that being reused=crank,block,rods etc.
I have had some lengthy correspondence with Naprec in the past. They say sloppiness/lazyness is all to prevalent when it come to some tuner builds.
Customers would bring them engines with a built forged block, t-88 turbo and huge cams only making 480ps. When they tore them down they would discover stock valve springs at the wrong set height, and totally crazy lifter shim clearances, stock cam gears, and ring packs that weren't even gapped.
I have personally bought a few grenaded (for parts) local tuner shop built engines here in Calgary. Just a mish-mash of parts. Typical bench racer mentality. Part A + Part B =Horsepower C.
Stick with your uncle, and dont worry about the muscle car thing. The skills are transferable.

[Bruizer]

It's no rocket science I agree, just saying it says something when 80% (guesstimate) of Canadian built skylines blow up. And paying a a reknown shop $5k labour should get you a "not rocket science" built engine but I have yet to experience that.
Going with a Calgary shop this time around...

[SheSquats_Bro]

Its not rocket science to build and engine that will last. There is no "close enough" when it comes to clearances. Block prep is critical, and magnaflux anything that being reused=crank,block,rods etc.
I have had some lengthy correspondence with Naprec in the past. They say sloppiness/lazyness is all to prevalent when it come to some tuner builds.
Customers would bring them engines with a built forged block, t-88 turbo and huge cams only making 480ps. When the tore them down they would discover stock valve springs at the wrong set height, and totally crazy lifter shim clearances, stock cam gears, and ring packs that weren't even gapped.
I have personally bought a few grenaded (for parts) local tuner shop built engines here in Calgary. Just a mish-mash of parts. Typical bench racer mentality. Part A + Part B =Horsepower C.
Stick with your uncle, and dont worry about the muscle car thing. The skills are transferable.

Yea I definitely understand what you are saying. I am NOT one to do anything "half ass" I dont want to rush anything that needs time and needs precise measurements. Hence asking for advice. I have a lot of patience for this build because i want to do it 100% properly the first time ( i always do alot of research before i start ). Ive rebuilt an engine before but this is my first import/tuner engine and like my uncle lack knowledge of the parts for imports, but the skills to rebuild an engine are pretty much universal for all engines. My MAIN concern for this build is the unique parts for the rb26dett that should be replaced or refurnished if needed and the tuner products that I am new to, rather than muscle cars.

[Dragon Humper]

Pay the biggest attention to brg and ring/piston clearances. They need to be a bit bigger than spec. Just tell your uncle that this is a chevy 350 that will be pounding out 2000hp and he'll get the picture of the hp/cu inch you are dealing with here.



Jon.

[Skym]

Stick with your uncle, and dont worry about the muscle car thing. The skills are transferable.

I believe the skills are transferable.

Read under "Nissan's early American connection" -

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Motor_Company

Nissan's VH V8 is said to be able to run Chevy V8 internals (I assume crank, etc). Nissan ran a 5.5 litre Chevy V8 engine in the 1968 R381 Lemans racecar. R35 GTR is said to use same brand (Borg Warner) transmission as used in Corvette, but it's made in Japan.

[Bruizer]

My bearing specs from tomei were 0.045-0.055mm (0.0017-0.0022").
seems tight to be but I'm an electrician so I do as tomei (leading builder in the world of skylines)

[Alak]

Factory Service Manual is your best friend.

When I was in school, they taught me to build a 6.8L John Deere Diesel. When I got into the real working world, I did a rebuild on a 24 cylinder CAT engine. The Pistons were the size of coffee cans. The engine was essentially the same, just one more camshaft and 18 more cylinders. Point is, the skills are entirely transferable. There's nothing magical about assembling the engine, only that you have to pay attention and measure the **** out of everything.

[Bruizer]

I got my specs from tomei which are different than the FSM...

So if its so straightforward, why are there so many blown built engines? Recently a tomei stroked engine just broke, freshly built by a certified professional shop... If the guys that make a living out of it break em, what about the back yard guys like us?
Heck even the XS engineering spun bearings on low KM engines.. And they're some of the best
I'm the world. When some cosworth guy calls the RB26 the rod bearing 26...

[Alak]

Fact is, anything can happen. As unlikely as it seems. Detroit had a problem with the series 60 engines in 1995 on highway trucks that the rod bearing on the wrist pin of the piston would fail prematurely because of an incorrect chemical makeup of the alloy used in the bearings, resulting in the piston ejecting from the engine. Windows 95 they called it. Absolutely undetectable until it happens. They recalled and repaired MANY engines.

It could be something as simple as a little dust in the oil passages, to incorrect oil, or anything really. The only thing you can do as a mechanic is your best diligence to build the engine within the recommended specs, wether it be the factory, or tomei or some Japanese guy who builds 1200HP engines for a living.