A few more pics of the cell... but these pics are when the cell was lower so where you can see the top of the tank, it will actually be about 3 inches higher. I'm still rolling over in my sleep cause I want the tank lower, but it would hang to far below the rear end with this style of tank. I'll see how it turns out, but I might get a custom tank built later down the road. I guess I'll see in a few weeks when it's all done
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BeeR32 build from the ground up
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Originally posted by EtienneGignac View PostAre you using R34 headlights and taillights ? I thought the 324 kit only fitted with the standard r32 taillights...
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Originally posted by BeeGTR View PostI already have the R34 headlights, from when I started to take it apart. I am going to add the tailights myself later on. I already bought them to add. I'm going to custom fit them, and hopefully make a kit to other people can do it too, but only with the BeeR kit, and not for a while.1990 Nismo GtR #283
354hp - 292 ft-lbs
-"And I thought my girlfriend was high maintenance..." -Etienne
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Ok finally got some work done, just havn't posted pics in a bit...
Here is where the engine is at
Pics of the fuel system almost complete...
Here's a pic of one of the clamps to hold the fuel lines to the body..
Another shot of the pile of stuff not going back in (some of)
A quick splash of paint...
Drive shaft out...
pics of exhaust out, with a really shitty weld that was done at a shop that didn't bother to use the proper wire to weld (carbon steel instead of stainless) which is really rusting, but will do for now. Does anyone have any experience with the silencer that opens up with pressure?
where the battery will go
My dad come by to help and get the clutch done
Pics of the driveshaft removed (back of transmittion)
Disconnecting everything thats bolted to the trany
Tranny out on the ground...man that thing is heavy, We've never seen such a big tranny, I can just imagine the R34's... but not so dirty
Inside the bell housing, nice and dirty
Stock clutch...
NISMO Coppermix and flywheel to go in
A little bit of brake cleaner goes a long way
installing the new clutch
We had to be creative to get the tranny back in because we couldn't lift the car any higher...
Final pics for today...
SARD BOV's mounted
Adjustable upper links installed
Things left to do untill It will run again...
-Mount fuel cell, pump, controller, battery (and wire)
-finish off fuel lines
-change rear diff seal
-re-install driveshaft and exhaust
-install all intake plumbing
-wheels and body kit
-re-install part of interior and seats
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Some updates....
Took the rear diff out, what a job, it took about 8 hours to pull out and put everything back in. But no more leaks!
The back end was gumbed up pretty bad
I'm not sure of the proper term, but this is where the wheel sensor goes
Shot of the teeth that the sensor reads
Misc shots of diff out
Gotta love break cleaner
The teeth were all in good shape
Fabbing up a bracket to mount the battery out of 1/8" Aluminum
Battery mounted nicely! Very strong
Started to pull the power and ground wires through to the battery. I decided to run a ground wire for safety, I just want no changes of fire, I don't like the extra weight of the wire tho...
Current state
Changed the Vaccum lines to braided. Lots of them were dry and cracked
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A couple of pictures; a few shots of the completed welding on the fuel cell mount. I'm going to drill holes in the square tubing to reduce some weight, I'm just not sure of how much. I was figuring to drill holes that are about 3/8" along the center of the tube. I will forsure do the box for the fuel pump, but I'm not sure about the rest of the frame. I will have to make the back end water tight, so by drilling to many holes, I'll have to plug them up.... Any advise?
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Camfering*SP
Camfering*sp (dunno the actual spelling this might be right)
what you would need to do to actually make the piece more ridged it to *camfer/chamfer* the edges of the circles you drill out, then your item will be stronger then before, and as you stated alot lighter. Now the hard part is the process of rolling the circle ring to get the peice to atually be stronger then it was before. If you want more info on this check out Optra Garage (JP tuner shop) they released a s2000 and a 350z with this process done to the whole frame of the car and then seem welded throughout. Now they achived alot fast lap times from these cars w/o the use of ANY preformace mods!! Simply Amazing. If you would like to try and drive one head over to your buddies house with Gran Turismo 4 and take them for a rip around a track, 1st stock then the optra garage versions and check it out yourself:drive: .
Cheers~Dave1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R
Originally posted by bignateIf you are too lazy to search the site for info you are certainly too lazy maintain a 15+yr old JDM car.
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Originally posted by SkyLizzle View PostCamfering*sp (dunno the actual spelling this might be right)
what you would need to do to actually make the piece more ridged it to *camfer/chamfer* the edges of the circles you drill out, then your item will be stronger then before, and as you stated alot lighter. Now the hard part is the process of rolling the circle ring to get the peice to atually be stronger then it was before. If you want more info on this check out Optra Garage (JP tuner shop) they released a s2000 and a 350z with this process done to the whole frame of the car and then seem welded throughout. Now they achived alot fast lap times from these cars w/o the use of ANY preformace mods!! Simply Amazing. If you would like to try and drive one head over to your buddies house with Gran Turismo 4 and take them for a rip around a track, 1st stock then the optra garage versions and check it out yourself:drive: .
Cheers~Dave
I did some searching and couldn't find info on those cars, I only found JP tuning Website and it had nothing on it. Could you post a link?
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I have a copy of SCC where they went over it all i will look for you and get back to you1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R
Originally posted by bignateIf you are too lazy to search the site for info you are certainly too lazy maintain a 15+yr old JDM car.
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Holy crap, what kinda of electric motor are you putting in the front?!?! a little overkill on the battery cables my friend. Almost looks like 2/0 conductor lol maybe 1/0. A #2 welding cable (high heat resistance so you can load into it) would have been the very very minimal safe limit and you could have saved some weight. Overkill but you'll NEVER have issues lol. Atleast you're not too worried about weight loss.Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.
Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.
start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
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