******* cool build. Just notice you are using HKS air filter. I heard rumour it is complete junk on long term. It would disintegrate into little pieces and get sucked into the engine causing internal damage. It is not an issue if you change it often. I believe Apex'i makes the best air filter. If to source locally K&N isn't bad at all too.
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thanks for the advice ill look into switching them up after next season... only get to drive half the year around here so i should be fine... damn winter lol... ill take a close look at the old filters they seemed to be in good shape on the inside but ill look more closely tomorrow to see if any of the foam fibers look torn or broken.
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I don't normally lol to damn cold... but my father and I have a plan this year to insulate the car tent shop we're working in and try and get the temp above zero in there so we can wrench... we've been lucky with good weather this late in the year, we normally have snow by now... so the plan is large insulate tarp or two and electric heat with a shop fan installed in the ceiling of the tent... another plan is to build a lean too out the back of the shop cut a hole in the back of the tent and connect the two then install a wood stove... we r gonna try and wrench this winter but we'll see how it works.
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everything is installed on the front of the car minus the brake rotors and wheels... gotta install the rear sway bar when i go back outside just taking a break to eat Im missing 4 bushings for the knuckle side upper control arm and tension bar so i wont be reinstalling the rear hubs yet and getting everything connected dammit... was hoping to have the car off the jack stands this weekend and on all four wheels...
wrench time
friday - 10am-11pm
saturday - 9am-4:30pm (dads bday)
sunday - 12pm- (so hungover)
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yay pics
replaced front inner wheel seals, cleaned & packed with grease
Seal wouldn't come out of the rears... realized we had to take it apart
Apart
sandblasted
assembling rear subframe components getting ready to install
installed
Rear suspension
with rear swaybar installed
fronts pretty much done
poor rear knuckles waiting for more bushings to finish them off
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Ok, I didn't follow your thread man, but thinking to prepare a separate subframe with bushings and diff bushings, maybe some axles, so the question is:
"If the car would be on the hoist and you have lots of tools, would a person be able to drop rear subframe just enough to reach in with hands and disconnect the whole Atessa pump (that sits on top) with bracket from the subfame? I really hate the idea of bleeding it after and making a mess with fluid!" So i want to live it hanging and replace my subframe with upgraded one! You just did yours so maybe you payed attention to that moment.
ThanksTTBB is a true ACN member
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Yeah, that is what im asking you, if you drop a subframe a bit, will you have enough space to undo Atessa bolts and not disconnect all the hoses, connectors and press line???
I know exactly where it sits but never took subframe out in my life and trying to avoid disconnection all that, so basically i want to drop subframe and live Atessa connected to the car still but supported by lets say a bungee cord!Last edited by tryingtobebest; 10-27-2014, 02:51 PM.TTBB is a true ACN member
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Today we started by heading out on the town looking for new spring clips and plastic clips for all the wheel well splash shields aswell as the bumper and lip. Found some good stuff at Napa and got the bumper, lip, DS wheel well guard and brake duct installed... still more to go. Ordered the rest of the rear knuckle bushings today from driftworks also purchased some ball joint spacers and a modified cat from forum members.
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Originally posted by curtisgoodman View Posthrmmm.... well there is 4 bolts holding it onto the diff... 2 on the side and 2 on the top... I'd say it's doable but it would have been nice if you asked this like 3 days ago lol i could have taken pics of exactly where they are...
Thank you, exactly what I was looking for!)TTBB is a true ACN member
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