RB26 Rebuild

[hp44incgtr]

Another fail 26 built reputable shop wow, who do I trust to put my motor together. Me that's who, if it fail at least I know the finger can only point back to me hahaha. Tensioner bolt fail I wanna some pictures.

[curtisgoodman]

The shop that did all the work for me didn't fail... if your talking about my engine blowing up way earlier in my build thread that was a shitty nissan bolt that snapped from a brand new tensioner assembly kit, it was just bad luck. The shop that re and re'd my engine and installed everything i bought for me is no longer around anymore but those guy helped me out tons when my engine blew up and gave me their time to help me fix the problem cause they cared or else they could have said F you and charged me full price to do another re and re but instead donated parts and gave me a huge discount on the second job.

I actually have no idea what you are talking about but yes you're correct about if you do the work you can only point at yourself if something happens i do agree with that... i would have done all the work myself back then in 2009, im very mechanically inclinded, but i was working 6 - 10's a week and had no shop and no help to do it so i trusted a shop to do the work for me i had no other choice. Now i have a basic shop and help from my father so i do the things myself now and not trust a shop to handle it.

Anyways rant over

[curtisgoodman]

front turbo is fine rear turbo starved of oil and failed... rear turbo is getting rebuilt... headers have been sent out for welding and ceramic coating, turbo dumps are getting ceramic coated and the hot side of the turbo housing is getting coated... i had 2 choices black or silver i went with black.

i have a crap load of parts ordered through summit racing:

canton racing oil thermostat 100 degrees C, 16" 3qt accusump with 37psi oil pressure valve, billet oil filter with replaceable inner filter flows 15gpm filters to 8 microns, misc fittings to adapt to my existing oil cooler system.

Mishimoto oil catch can in black, the one with the brass 40 micron filter.

Battery box for relocating it to the rear.

[curtisgoodman]

removed the headlamps and the wiper blades so i could paint them, took apart all the brakes and cleaned everything up better, scuffed up the rotors and cleaned the pads... i felt the brakes were weak... i ordered some motul rbf 600 from summit racing enough to replace all the fluid in my system.

Saw a leak on the rear diff both atf and diff oil... found the nipple to bleed the attesa pump was dipping slightly so tightened that up and i still have to remove the inspection/fill bolt in the rear diff to see if it needs topping up... wish i saw that it was leaking before when it was off the car i would have fixed it then darnit.

[curtisgoodman]

ordered a pile of earls fittings and SS line to connect the oil thermostat to my system man those little buggers aren't cheap wow... all just got back from winnipeg with a truck load of fluids, box of 10w40 redline, 5L heavy shock proof, 5L 10w30 redline for a friend, 3L motul RBF 600 to clean my system out, grabbed a couple LED's i was missing my dome light and I wanted to try out some in the headlight I'll post pic in a minute or 2.

[curtisgoodman]

Removed wing to clean... tried really hard to cut polish the water spots off my car... couldn't get all of them off




Had the Accusump installed but it still had to much movement so we added an aluminum piece of angle




Another shot in the dark of the difference led to stock bulb

[curtisgoodman]

my new grey door looks to be a little lighter in colour... still its better then the black door i had on there

[curtisgoodman]

Since I've had the car the rear speakers havent worked so for the rear passengers sake i finally ripped apart the console and dove right into troubleshooting why.

everything was connected on the stereo side but in the trunk the plug that used to go into the stock stereo amp was just hanging there and the speaker wires needed to be cut and patched into the harness so the stock plugs worked... did it and they work only problem is they are blown to hell... so i ripped out the rear seat and rear deck panel to find that there no longer is foam connecting the paper cone to the metal lol... ripped them out and found some older 4x6 alpine type S speakers laying around so i connected them up to see how they would sound and they are all good... now just need to fab up a mount and put everything back together.

Focals in the front doors and alpines in the rear with an old sony explode deck... i need a new deck lol

[curtisgoodman]

I'm going to have to make a new box for my alpine type R 10" subs and MRV-1000 sub amp... now that i have a mines rear strut bar my box will no longer fit back there... gonna custom make something to fit under the bar or around the bar so the bar holds it in place...

[curtisgoodman]

more updates to come stay tuned

[curtisgoodman]

Today we moved the hks turbo timer into the clock area... used the old clock bracket and dremelled the heck outta it to make the timer fit and then used a bit of silicon to seal it up nicely... fits good will post pics soon... also custom installed the alpine speakers of the back parcel shelf just need to wire them up... had one of the projector clips that hold the bulb in place bent a bit somehow so the light was loose inside had to bend that back and make it fit properly without breaking the wire clip...

[curtisgoodman]

Yesterday after work we cut a square hole in the cluster bezel on the right side... just beside the ignition switch for the lighted toggle switch to activate the accusump system, looks pretty good, started with a cardboard template used a paint pen on the plastic surface then dremelled a close fit hole and used a file to do the square corners and flatten out the sides... it was a one shot deal cause the only other cluster surround i had was a gtst one so i had to get it right the first time... replaced my rear defrost switch cause it was sticking and not engaging properly with one from the gtst cluster surround.

my old man bent up a piece of flat bar to make a mount for the oil cooler thermostat we got from canton racing so we could raise it up a little bit off the battery tray area so the earls fittings would smoothly go to there respected areas. Next i just had to put a could more panels back together to finish the drivers side switch wiring then replace the rear parcel tray and rear seats... still have to do 4 more wires for the new rear speakers...

pics to come

[curtisgoodman]

close up shot of the accusump with custom mount attached to the rad support


hks turbo timer to clock mod, just need to black out the silicon we used then it'll be perfect


accusump lighted rocker switch, wired to ign and working

[curtisgoodman]

lotsa views... nobody much talks on my thread lol... not looking for pats on the back or anything i do this cause i enjoy it but nobody has questions or an idea to better do something ive done... anything...

something i was thinking about the other day is i dont do step by step photos... i really enjoy reading other build threads where there is lots of detail and pictures... i kinda only give final pics or before and afters... next thing i do i'll try and remember to document steps with multiple pictures so i can post to you guys with a bit more info on exactly what im doing and or have done.

see if that helps

[curtisgoodman]

so i got the rest of my motul rbf600 brake fluid yesterday so i can now bleed my entire system clean with new stuff... i also am suppose to receive my mishimoto drain kit and top 90 degree fitting so i can finish mounting it and setup the drain in an accessible area underneath the car somewhere...

just a question but I always see people with catch cans bring two lines off the back of the valve covers to the catch can... can you not connect one to the other and bring just one... or block off the left and right sides and leave the "C" shaped hose attached and just Tee off the C hose in the middle and run one hose to the catch can?

on the drivers side of the engine one of the valve cover hoses goes around the middle of the fuel rail... is that a PCV? if so is it ok to block it off? and the passenger side valve cover hose goes back into the air intake to be burnt... i think i'll be returning the air from the catch can back through that route to prevent fumes returning into the cab...