Skyline GTR build/project *lots of pics + document

[frankiman]

hey josh, before you take the car off the jack stands, could you take a picture of where exactly you put all 4 of them, considering you all the suspension apart..

thx

this car is going to be sick

[mitch32]

Nice build.

For Frank, I usually put long pieces of wood on the frame rails and put the jack stands under this keeps the frame from warping. Also I've used the tow hooks in the front for support. Now I've been spoiled and I have been putting my car on a lift, I hate working on the floor, heh.

[frankiman]

^good idea mitch, thx
i'll probly do that, just drop the car on 20inches of wood under the frame rails, that way the car should be really stable

i may have a really nice garage with a ton of tools, but still no access to a lift
but if i pitch my idea the right way to my dad, we might be getting this system
http://www.dannmar.com/dannmar-produ...fts/maxjax.asp

[archaeic_bloke]

@Sxybeast: thanks a lot!, the coolant tank has a hole at the top of the neck, you NEED a hole to allow the pressure to change as its supposed, just look at the OEM reservoir, its open completely at the top. ya the line does go to the bottom of the tank, the lowest point. ---- the negative wire runs under the car where the HICAS lines used to be (ya i took my hicas out alrdy) the positive line runs inside the car though. you should start at page 1 and flip through all the pages real quick to see where it all started.

@cyberspider+franki: *sigh*.,.. im a firm believer in NEVER spraying water on engine bays... when i was a fire fighter i went to a few car fires caused exactly by that reason.. and if u admit you sprayed it with water to insurance, theres some instances where they will not cover you.

@frank re: jack points, hey tomorrow ill get those photos for you bud!

-> this is a long overdue update, but i had to finish my exams, plus my engine was at the shop... so heres i guess the update we've all been waiting for, and where i explain my reason behind all this....

so heres the story. last year i noticed my oil pressure was kind of low... like 3 bar max... so i bought the DEFI oil pressure gauge and sensor and installed that, i needed to be sure of what i was seeing... so i warmed up the car, and drove on the highway... from 2nd gear to the top.. up to 7,800 RPM... i had my Defi unit record the oil pressures... so when i played it back sure enough.. it hits 2.5 bar and never goes above.

damn! i thought, whats up with this... did some reading found "mitch's" post describing the similar symptons, and when he pulled his oil pump off he found some screws had come loose! and the oil was leaking out the backing plate... i.e very close to failing....

so i suspected the same thing of mine, and now we have the results...

Can anyone spot the problem?!


you can see on the backing of the oil pump what LOOKS like liquid oil.. its NOT... its actually oil thats been baked on... from the heat, so it seems there was oil leaking out the backing plate


ya thats right! i called it... screws coming out.. i soooo diagnosed that!! and if anyone questions wether or not i did...mitch, and marc both heard me say that about 4 months ago when all this started. lol

so i HAD to open the oil pump and see whats up inside..


look at the rediculous engagement area... whats that like 4mm?


Yep! 4mm


So now i figured well lets have a look at the shells... and my god, a number of them show signs of scoring and heat stress!!!


look at the burn on this one


so i figured check the crank to see which was causing the sore spots... hrm this is rod # 6


and this is rod #1... so 1 and 6 ... geez!


heres the area that engages on the crank.. god its absolutley dispicable!


so my engine was essentially a ticking time bomb about to run out of fuse!! im SO lucky that i did something about this before it ruined my block and pistons and rods!!...


ok, so as you know the engine has been at autoworx for 2 weeks.. and i finally got it back on friday


it looks the same on the outside, but now its sporting a brand new R34 crank, an N1 oil pump, and ACL race, rod, and main bearings.... I.E. its a pretty solid bottom end now, and we already know the pistons and rods are all good since we had good compression, so we're all set to run some reliable power.


so ive got my engine gasket kit back with the remaing gaskets to put on myself, and a new set of belts for AC, PS, and Alt


only the best fluids for everything


so i had some buddies over for the afternoon and they were bragging about being strong or w/e and i convinced them to give me a hand (since they were so strong haha) and get the tranny back on... we did... it took 5 minutes, super pleased about that as thats VERY hard to do on my own..lol


Then i wanted to start finishing off my battery relocation thing... so i drew up this plan and i started cutting up some sheet metal


after some time cutting, sanding and bending (i dont have a bender so i did all this by hand... ouch


so the idea for this, its going in the trunk of course... ok ill start from the "box" part... that box will have the 200Amp circuit breaker mounted on top for easy and safe reset if necessary, and on the front will be a voltage reader wired to the battery to display batt voltage...


the flat part is what will attach to the body in the trunk and be a secure mounting point, this way i just have to remove the heat shield temporarily to attach it rather than dropping the gas tank (which i didnt want to do)...


then you see theres a downward part with notches followed by another flat part, thats where the battery box attaches to, it sits an inch above the floor pan in the little sunken recessed spare tire area... now in between the base of the battery box and the floor pan in the trunk will be rubber foam padding... the point is to act like a cushion for the battery ( i know its not necessary but why not be over cautious? less jumpy battery may make some difference in some future ? lol i dono) anyways the battery will be an optima red top so it doesnt matter anyway.


and with respect to a clean finish, the trunk, when finished, will show only about 4 inches of battery box. and that shiny little voltage reader on the metal box will be in the left corner just near the rear passeneger side wheel well... all that other stuff will be covered by carpet.



ok so in the coming days i'll be bolting on some of the new parts to the engine, then it goes back in the car.

serious progress to come this week, i promise!

[frankiman]

it looks the same on the outside,

didn't you change the turbos ?

and sweet battery box !

[archaeic_bloke]

turbos are being changed this week by me... along with the gaskets and a few other things...

so for anyone who reads this thread, my old crank and oil pump will be going up for sale, i know some people like to take these parts and fit a new collar to the crank and put reimax gears in the oil pump housing. i won't be asking a whole lot for either of them...lol

so i started my new job at the machine shop, its going well, im learning a LOT... anyway the job has me most of the day so i get very little time to work on my car, but i finally managed to finish installing my battery box/panel and re-fit all the trunk lining.

its pretty clean in there just needs a good vacuuming to clean up that rug. and im considering shortening the length of the red wire to the breaker but i havent decided if its worth doing yet...i will probably do it later.

later tonite i may re-install some of the interior and work on my center console set up,
im planning something cool for it, you guys have seen some of it (in the previous pages) but ive added a bit more to the design.

next up after that, is to get to work on that engine!!!! which id say is about time! ive done everything BUT engine work. lol


so the battery box comes up about 4 inches above the carpet. and you can't see it but also my windshield washer fluid bottle is in there too remember all on the back left side of the trunk to help corner balance when im sitting in the car.

[frankiman]

weren't you supposed to come pick up some parts?

[archaeic_bloke]

well, things are going slow, it seems i need to sleep TOO much between working 60+ hours a week and trying to work on my car i only have like an hour or 2 each day. im really getting frustrated with my lack of time so these updates will be breif, but still interesting i think.

this weekend i bought my new battery for the trunk: Optima Red top gel battery its rated for 800 Cold Cranking Amps, interesting enough when we tested it, the battery was showing 1200 CCA's! wow good job optima! way to make a good product!
and it fits like a glove!



so i had about 2 hours to put in today only, so i decided i would remove the turbos today. i started off by removing the inlet and outlet pipes for the compressors:


ok so while i was removing my oem turbos, the water feed lines for the turbos became... um.. broken!

i put a wrench on there to unbolt it all, (the same as every other line - which came off with out problem). but with very minimal force they snapped and cracked. i suppose 20 year old steel lines with heating and cooling over time became super brittle and fragile, anyways, they're scrap now.


so i need some ideas as to what i can do to resolve the problem, i need the engine finished ASAP!


its the top water line before the large banjo bolt (the T-section) both pipes are broken. ....AND the 2 feeds that go into the turbos themselves.

my ideas:
1) source some used lines from a JDM shop here in MTL
2) buy new braided lines.

so im wondering if anyone has any better ideas? AND if anyone can reccomend a quick easy place to purchase the braided lines from?


anyways the rest came off with out any issue at all...
heres the oem turbos, i checked the shaft play, theres not a whole lot of play... very very minimal, these turbos ran stock boost their entire life so i would expect them to be in good condition.



all thats left to do on this side of the engine is unbolt the exhaust manifolds, replace the gaskets and match the manifold outlets to the turbo exhaust inlet gasket size

[frankiman]

so im wondering if anyone has any better ideas? AND if anyone can reccomend a quick easy place to purchase the braided lines from?

go see the guys at TurboQuip
6966 Rue Jarry Est, Saint-Leonard, QC H1P 3C1 - (514) 326-7640

they will make the exact same line, in steel braided teflon, using the old fittings (cheaper, and 100% chance it'll fit) and they can have it done within 24hours

they have another adress, which is closer to you

851 Rue McCaffrey, Saint-Laurent, QC H4T 1N3 - (514) 341-3511

but i never went there, don't know if its the same kind of shop

[Lilmike02]

Water and oil lines

Ebay has a kit that you can purchase. one is for oil line and the other is for water line.

I pm'd you with the links

[NismoS-tune]

You say 'best fluids' but I didn't see AMSoil or Motul

[archaeic_bloke]

Frank - Thanks!!!! ill call them! woo hoo.
nismostune - its for the breakin period, 2000km, then switching to motul as thats what i usually run.! ... motul FTW!

and thanks for the PM with ebay links, thats awesome!!! im gonna call that shop here in mtl and get a price first tho, since i could have them 24 hrs later,

[DJ]

I beleive Manny aka malibusst sells a complete set of ss lines with restrictors and all im sure he could get them to you asap!

[archaeic_bloke]

lines are being made at tuboquip now, hopefully it comes out well.

so last night i was able to get some work in on the turbos, i started off by taking the exhaust studs out of the old turbos, the oil and water wrap around lines and brackets etc.... installed the studs into the turbo outlet


then put the new metal gasket and bolted it all up


then bolted in the studs for the exhaust inlet:


and this is the part i wasnt aware of... i tried to install the oil drains onto the new turbos but realized they wouldnt bolt up at all! so i called around and a buddy of mine (thanks mitch!) explained everyone has that problem, and the solution is to mill the metal and make the holes line up, then just trim the gasket... thank god for diamond carbide dremmel bits!



And it fits quite perfectly



so then i installed the wrap around hard lines and brackets, and afterwords the heat shield for the turbo housing, and heres the first turbo all ready to rock and roll!

[mitch32]

Nice build. Glad to see its going well.

You don't need break-oil, you can run synthetic from the get-go. The only reason you run regular motor oil after a rebuild is to allow the piston rings to seat properly in the bore. Since you don't have new rings you don't need regular oil.