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My 1995 GTR project thread.
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do you have any extra -12 nylon braided line? i wouldnt mind buying if you wanna sell some.
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Originally posted by JDMricer View PostDash looks great! I did the same thing, it was a ****ing skank, took a long time to get it perfect, Chances are you'll have a few spots once the sun hits it on a hot day that wants to peel a bit but a bit of elbow grease and youll get er. Some people aren't crazy about it, but if you saw what a 15-16 year old r33 dash looked like youd understand. Gotta admit I'm pretty jealous since our cars are very similar cept, mnp r33 gtr, carbon wing, carbon dash, just yours is much much faster now
Sucks the gauge faces on the new defis are white though. I wanted to do the same thing with a triple pod with mine but I couldnt bring myself to build up the balls to drill through the dash, props for having the balls to do it.
That is a genius idea with the H pattern.
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Actually i'm patiently waiting for the plenum and the rest of my parts to arrive for my fuel system .
Stuff i already have:-
Tomei fuel pump
HKS rail
HKS 680cc injectors
Sard FPR
Russel -6 black braided line for fuel line
Russel black silver 120deg , 90deg and straight -6 an fittings to plumb in the fuel rail
Stuff im waiting on:-
Nismo plenum
Russel -6 an billet aluminium Y splitter block
More Russel 90 Degree and straight black and silver full flow fittings
Russel Billet racing fuel filter ( 10 micro paper cartridge )
Russel oem fuel line to aluminum -6 an push on fittings .
Nissan water hose kit
Russel fuel pressure gauge
then ill install my :-
power fc with datalogit box and tune it all with fcedit and co-pilot
then i might dyno it to see what a hash i make of tuning it myself
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Thanks guys
I do have the remote for the gauge controller , i havnt played with it much yet , it allows me to set limits for the alarms on each gauge including the oil pressure which i hate when i first get in and put the key in it goes right through my head until the engines running and the pressure goes above 1.5 . Also records and plays back about 5 minutes of gauge activity too .
I'm actually going to install a fuel cut solenoid that operates if low oil pressure is detected so i wont need the alarm for it.
The hole for the small cable was done by cutting an H pattern in the dash material , taping the 2 flaps back and then drilling a small hole through the plastic underneath. This allows me to reseal the dash with the 2 flaps later if i want to remove the pod and leaves an almost undetectable mark where it used to be . ( upholsterer friend gave me that tipThe key is to not remove ANY dash cover material.
The cableing took a long time , I swear the worst part is passing it behind the drivers side inner fender skin into the drivers footwell then passing it over the steering column and onto where it has to go. I'm not the most flexible person lol.
I liked the CR gauges over the BF gauges , they are pretty neutral at night , and arnt a big source of light during the day and they match the factory gauges to some degree.
I'm still waiting for the primer to come from 3M , been 3 weeks now and im beginning to lose patience , i'll probably end up removing it again , reheating and crazyglueing the offending pieces back into place (3M suggested this btw) .Last edited by cortexx; 08-30-2011, 10:57 PM.
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Dash looks great! I did the same thing, it was a ****ing skank, took a long time to get it perfect, Chances are you'll have a few spots once the sun hits it on a hot day that wants to peel a bit but a bit of elbow grease and youll get er. Some people aren't crazy about it, but if you saw what a 15-16 year old r33 dash looked like youd understand. Gotta admit I'm pretty jealous since our cars are very similar cept, mnp r33 gtr, carbon wing, carbon dash, just yours is much much faster now
Sucks the gauge faces on the new defis are white though. I wanted to do the same thing with a triple pod with mine but I couldnt bring myself to build up the balls to drill through the dash, props for having the balls to do it.Last edited by JDMricer; 08-30-2011, 10:16 PM.
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Wow, I love your car.
You do such neat work. Did your defi come with a remote for playback, and changing settings? My car has the same main box yours does (CR gauges), but it looks like someone ripped the remote out during transit.
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AT LAST - the materials list for the catch can plumbing (all russel parts) :-
6 ft -12 Nylon PROCLASSIC HOSE #632213
3x PROCLASSIC 90° FULL FLOW SWIVEL HOSE ENDS #613193
2X PROCLASSIC 45° FULL FLOW SWIVEL HOSE ENDS #613123
2X -12 AN 3/4" NPT 45° Black Flare to Pipe Adapter #660893
Basic Instructions for plumbing installation of a RIPS oil catch can / washer tank :-
Buy a tank from RIPS
Remove the factory breather fittings from your cam covers (see further back in the thread to learn how NOT to do it)
Machine the holes out and cut 3/4 npt threads.
Install part number #660893 into each cam cover and pint in the direction you want the lines to route.
Make up 2 lines using part number #613193 on one end and part number #613123 on the other end to run from the cam covers to the rips tank
Make up a drain line from a length of hose and part number #613193 and either plumb it back into the oil pan through a turbo drain using a y- adapter OR vent to roador plug
cap off the other fitting on the side of the tank with a russel -12 blank cap ( cant find it on their site )
that just about covers it , if you want pics look back in the thread - the rest is common sence
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Looks great man. I love that pod for gauges up there. Looks great man.
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Just a few updates , The Defi gauges are now installed and functional . the Control unit is hidden in behind the glovebox assembly like this :-
Ran all the sensor and control wiring and tried to make it look relatively neat :-
The dash trim and shifter trim are all re-installed after the dy-noc was installed but will have to come out again to refinish parts of it because leaving the car in direct sun on a 30+ degree day softened the vinyl and it pulled away from some of the inside curves. I have 3M special primer to use on these parts when it arrives.
The gauge pod is now in that i got from the feastauto group buy. originally wrapped in dynoc but removed it before installation.
and if you are following from behind and look through the window , this is what you'll see :P
Interestingly enough i figured my car had relatively lowish oil pressure , but according to my defi gauge its 8-9 when cold , 4-5 when hot driving at 3200rpm , and 1.5 - 2 when idling hot. A far cry from the factory gaugeOne thing that i did notice is that under violent acceleation , pressure dropped suddenly on the defi gauge but not on the factory gauge. After alot of head scratching i figured that even though the dipstick sayes its full on oil , after you start the engine and it fills up the relocation lines and cooler lines , it's running kinda low in the sump , so i added an extra quart of oil and that fixed the issue.
Glad the defi picked that up , the factory gauge didnt respond fast enough to show the drop , that could have cost me alot in the long run.
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yes it's -12 , ill post up a parts list for the job if you like , i kept all the packaging for the purpose of doing it , just the A-D-D kicked in and i started working on something else before i got the chance .
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your update on the oil catch helped me so much. im ordering similar for mine. (nylon line with red/blue fittings) whats the inner diameter of the russel -12 line?
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Originally posted by cortexx View Postthe keypad was already wired , i just extended the loom and moved it. On checking out the associated loom , its very easy to install consisting of the pad , a single relay and some wiring to the ignition barrel loom.
I was going to remove it but it's such a great anti-theft device .
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