My 1995 GTR project thread.

[RWD_GTR]

ok. idk ive never known anyone to have very much OIL in the can. its usually other stuff

[cortexx]

Well the RIPS guys told me to plumb it like this , the oil will drain back to the pan , once the engine is warm the water vapour and other fumes will evacuate through the breather. If any water vapour gets back into the pan it'll recirculate back again until it evacuates . I asked them the same question ..

[RWD_GTR]

wow. do NOT make it go back into your oil!!! such a bad idea. its made to catch moisture and fuel vapors. barely any oil. you will have to change your oil once a month if you do this.

dont be lazy. empty the thing every once in a while.

the whole point of the thing is to catch **** you dont want in your motor.

[cortexx]

I have a Tomei Arms kit on the way (over night parts from Japan ).

The kit comes with an entire fitting kit including stainless water and oil lines , i also have a greddy suction kit to install that should match nicely .

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-ca...ms_rb26-e.html

going with a 7655 kit.

My goal is pretty clear now , im chasing a healthy 500 hp with the best response i can get. I also have a tomei fuel pump to match with a sard fpr , hks fuel rail and a set of hks 680cc injectors controlled by a Powerfc . Initial setup to get it drivable will not include the fuel upgrade until the engine has been built internally . Ill be keeping it at around 8psi until fuel setup is installed and tuned. The engine has 105k on it and im not about to destroy it. Once I have driven it a bit this summer I'll consider a plan of attack for the longblock. Will also be looking for a set of Nismo MAFS

I'll try not to disappoint on the avatar installments

[ColinR33]

Kewl, looking forward to the final product, are you doing all the turbo oil and coolant lines as well?

...but what happened to your avatar....it's so.....mainstream now....I was looking forward to the next installment of Mr. Bean as much as the build!

[cortexx]

Update ..

Got some more fittings today for the cam covers , so i cleaned all the drool and other body fluids from their reflective surfaces and chased out the threads in the bungs to make sure there was no swarf left in them..



Coated the thread on the NPT parts of the 90deg bends (3/4 NPT thread to 12 an compression fitting) with antisieze to make them easy to disassemble later if need be . -



Then fitted the bend into the cam cover , it doesnt stick up too high , looks almost oem



and with compression fitting attached -



Happy with the fittings in the cam covers I threw them back on the engine and connected everything up to see what it all looked like and how high the hoses would sit - This is not necessarily the final fitting position , but it can stay like this until i reassemble more of the engine bay ...



you'll notice I have routed the hoses down the length of the engine rather than to one side as others have done. this is because I have yet to install a remote oil filter and want as little clutter as possible down the plenum side of the engine bay, hopefully want to get my hands on a nismo plenum for next winters work . I plan to fab a bracket utilizing one of the bolts the front cam wheel cover to hold it all in place.



I have now just got the oil return line to plumb into the turbo oil return . I can replace the original block nipple fitting with a T assembly made up of 4 russel fittings to accomplish this . Once this is done I'll have a complete list of components needed to replicate the job if you guys want to give it a try.

[ColinR33]

Thanks , alot of it is mundane to read but it's the small obvious jobs like this that takes the majority of the time. Sometimes even the most simple of installations presents challenges. Not much info on R33 builds really , everything i found is R32 and it's suprising how much these cars differ when you start doing things to them..

When the plumbing is done i will supply a list of fitting parts numbers and hose lengths so that someone can order a list and have everything they need to complete the job, I had a hard time finding facts on this, just lots of theory and points of view!

Mundane or not, it's good info to have when you're working on the car. The hose list is a great idea, that is something I'd like to upgrade in the future.

The avatar creep factor is going down slightly too....

[EMAGDNIM]

Nice selection of parts you're using for this build! I can't wait to see the finished product!

[cortexx]

Thanks , alot of it is mundane to read but it's the small obvious jobs like this that takes the majority of the time. Sometimes even the most simple of installations presents challenges. Not much info on R33 builds really , everything i found is R32 and it's suprising how much these cars differ when you start doing things to them..

When the plumbing is done i will supply a list of fitting parts numbers and hose lengths so that someone can order a list and have everything they need to complete the job, I had a hard time finding facts on this, just lots of theory and points of view!

[ColinR33]

Great build, just read thru the whole thing! I can directly relate to a number of things you've run into, and I'm getting some ideas for next years installment of my build - my budget is shot for this year, just got the Vipec to install and dyno tune, and then enjoy! I really like how you're doing your stuff.

[cortexx]

The finished product one end at least ...



I have here some nylon hose protector that came with my HKS oil cooler kit, this i'm using where the hose comes into contact with the braided steel lines of the oil cooler. It might not look the greatest but does stop unnecessary damage to these lines .



Test fitting thelines to the catch can



Here is a closeup so that you can see the application in detail , the RIPS can came with 4 12an fittings in total. My first setup will be 2 lines to the cam covers , one fitting blanked off and the lower fitting is being fed back to the oil return on the front turbo. I dont want to fart around emptying the catch can , I want it self sufficient.



if this doesnt work as intended ill be removing the breather unit on the rips tank and plumbing in a vacuum hose back to the pcv system on the engine that atm is removed.

The cam covers were taken to a friends shop today to have the steel inserts removed . I attempted this last week with a jack and makeshift frame but as i said somewhere else on these forums the jack slipped out causing a cam cover to hit me in the bollocks and cause me to lie on the workshop floor like a wanker until the pain subsided. ( Hurt so much i almost puked) .

The crappy castings actually had a slight crack around the original location so we may be cutting out the old bung completely to weld new aluminium bungs in place that are threaded for new russel fittings

I have decided the polished finish may not be what i want , so am looking at powder coating them instead , just not sure what type yet..

more to follow later this week !

[cortexx]

Back in the shop over the weekend with a box of Russel braided size 12 line and some fittings ..

I know alot of you have used earls and other brands of braided lines but I've also seen some very bad attempts at assembling lines at car shows and even my early attempts were not the greatest. They look easy to assemble but a few hints before can save alot of time and damaged parts.

You can buy the lines already made up if you order them to your spec , but half the fun is buying parts and self assembly so for newcomers to this endeavour here is a short section on how to correctly assemble your lines.

So we start of with a box that contains 20ft of Russel size 12 line. I have decided to choose their new nylon braided hose over the stainless as i prefer the understated look , the flexibility and its resistance to abraision against other items in the engine bay.



I started by cutting 2 lengths ready for the catch can. Wrap the hose where you want to cut it with masking tape and cut it with a nice fresh hacksaw blade . Russel do provide a special tool for doing this but it's pretty pricey and not justafiable unless you intend to make alot of hoses, so the hack job was the best solution here .



You'll notice when you cut this that the hose tends to fray and unravel a bit but the tape keeps it all together . This is what you end up with.



trim the frayed edges off with a sharp pair of scissors like this -



It's now ready for the fitting. I chose the russel black and silver fittings for this job, again , i'm not a big fan of lots of blue and red fittings everywhere , i really like the stealth GTR rips built and this influenced my choice here a bit too

-12 an 45deg fittings for the can end -



start assembly by carefully removing the masking tape and threading the large nut onto the braided line. It has a coarse thread inside it to make this a pretty easy job , stop twisting it on when the hose comes to within about a mil of the inside lip .



As you will see from this pic , the second piece of the fitting has a tapered end to facilitate entry into the end of the hose while threading it all together, i put a tiny amount of vaseline on this taper to stop the fitting ripping the inside of the hose when being assembled.



I then clamp it firmly (not to tight) in a vice to hold the large nut while i screw the fitting into the hose. This part is crucial to get right because you have to hold the hose behind the nut to stop the fitting pushing out the hose partially as you screw the black part of the fitting in. Use a rag in the vice to stop damage on the fittings.

[cortexx]

a had a few PM's suggesting that i have a less creepy avatar , so i changed it

[bellis_GTR]

Yeah I wonder what that babys gonna look like when its done ( Your avatar! hahaha ).

[Oakville]

Amazing build so far, cant wait to see that hood mounted.