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My 1995 GTR project thread.

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  • JZ
    replied
    Come to Calabogie and run a real track

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  • cortexx
    replied
    yes , it's taking a while though lol, i wanted to take it to TMP and mosport, but after seeing the shinnanigans from the other drivers there this year i'm seriously considering not to. If some twit in a $1500 civic or an accord that doesnt know how to drive side swipes my GTR i'll probably snap!

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  • Phastwon
    replied
    Looking good Paul. I thought I had a complete sweep of parts for my build but you have even more stuff than I do. Can't wait to cruise when it is done.

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  • cortexx
    replied
    Well i cheat .

    I have a business that has 2 service vehicles and those parts are for a H3T and a RAV4 on paper

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  • RWD_GTR
    replied
    holy ****. i went broke just buying my power fc. you have that and TONS more ****.

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  • gtrjon
    replied
    wow i just came

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  • leeaspin
    replied
    looks great!

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  • ColinR33
    replied
    Damn, I wish I had that kind of money to put into mine! Lots of sweetness.

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  • cortexx
    replied
    I then unpacked the rest of the parts and checked everything out before planning what to install next .

    Here you'll see the following :-

    Greddy suction kit
    Trust downpipe
    Tomei Expreme exhaust manifolds
    Tomei expreme dump pipes
    N1 water pump
    Tomei cam belt
    Tomei Arms complete turbo kit (7655 ver)
    Apexi Power FC
    Apexi AVC-r
    Innovate wideband kit
    HKS fuel rail
    HKS 680cc injectors
    Sard type RJ FPR
    Tomei fuel pump





    I also have to install the defi gauges , and some other interior stuff . This is going to wait until i am a little more healed as lounging around the inside of the car is a bit uncomfortable atm.

    I am going to attempt a step by step for the turbo kit as the tomei instructions are pretty vague on how to route the stainless lines etc . hopefully this will be useful to anyone else that buys these things

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  • cortexx
    replied
    Update:-

    Well I havnt been able to do much work on the car over the last 3 weeks because I had some minor back surgery and figured as they were going to put me out totally to do it , i'd have them give me the "snip" while i was knocked out because if they attempt that while i'm awake , it's possible the surgeon might not make it through the procedure . So for anyone who decides to follow this example please take my advice not to because not being able to lie on my back or my front for 3 days made my wifes life miserable as hell during the night !

    So back to brass tacks , got my Seibon hood and an assortment of other goodies I have been waiting for . Fitted the hood , took about 5 minutes and it looked amazing , fitted like a glove as you can see from the following pic :-



    It looks so mean even the cat passed out from a boner :-

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  • 93VSpec
    replied
    Great build thread Paul, just read through the whole thing. Keep them coming, as the tips you gave me have been working out so far.

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  • cortexx
    replied
    Update :

    Carbon fiber wing :-

    This is an aftermarket wing that i bitched about the quality of somewhere else on these forums however i'm not going to revisit that too much here , rather i'm going to show you how i made it somewhat safe to mount.

    Problem being that the original nissan wing is held on with 4 fixtures on each side that can be adjusted to change the angle of the wing. I have 2 holes in the carbon wing that don't align properly with the holes in the end plates so i cant mount it.

    this is an original wing :-



    This is chinese manufacturing at its best (or worst ?) :-



    I started off by measuring and drilling the missing holes so that more fixtures can be used to mount it.



    I then decide that the hole nearest the leading edge of the wing is going to have a steel 1/4 inch bar running through the entire wing to be held at each end with a locknut , here is the bar being measured :-



    and marked / cut in a vice with a hacksaw :-



    Used a tap to cut a new thread on each end of the new bar :-



    then cleaned it up and test fitted niloc nuts :-



    On closer examination of the original wing it had a row of open holes on the underside of each end . I figure they are for drainage incase rain gets inside the wing so I make the same hols on the new wing - tape first so that the gel coat doesnt crack or chip and the weave of the carbon or GRP does not twist around the drill bit :-



    drilled with a brand new and very sharp bit :-



    Next , peeled the tape off and cleaned up the hole with a dremel -



    at this point I noticed that the wing thickness varies alot , the material thickness on one side was a thick 4mm while the other end of the wing was slightly less than 1mm as you can see from the following pictures :-





    I was now at the point where I had to pass the steel bar through the wing and mount it. Let me tell ya that trying to get the bar out of the other side is a pain so here is a tip on how to use a folded ziptie to help :-



    I passed the folded ziptie in through the drain hole i had made on the underside of the wing and then pushed it to expand it around the inside wing profile . The ziptie kind of looks like this but inside the wing :-



    Once expanded like this was easily able to pass the rod down and catch it with the ziptie by pulling the excess tie back out of the hole like this :-



    once captured it was easy to move it in position to push it through the end of the wing :-



    Time to install wing to the car, on each end you will notice a locknut for the bar , 1 security screw and 2 , 2 inch hex cap ends. The reason I am using 2 inch capheads is because tapping into resin is not exactly as strong as tapping into a steel insert. I am expecting them to back themselves out. If this happens they will back out as far as the cap head hits the cover and will still have about an inch of threaded screw left in the wing hopefully stopping it break away. The one security fitting is just to stop theft .

    The bar itself pulls the ends together and serves 2 purposes.

    1: it closes the gap at the ends of the wing ( this wing was not as wide as the original) when the nuts are torqued.

    2: it ensures that the wing will not be able to detach itself and fly off into orbit , at least it will have to break into smaller pieces to come away completely.

    here is the mounting :-







    If you are observant you will notice a slight hazing , almost milky look to the carbon finish. This is caused by the use of polyester resin in the construction . Most carbon fiber is composed of Epoxy resin, Epoxy resin is much harder and is also completely transparent, polyester resin is softer and is not 100% transparent giving the milky look.

    If you buy carbon fibre parts ask the seller what type of resin is used , I didn't realise this myself until recently after doing some research myself .

    I pick my Seibon hood up tommorrow , cant wait to fit it , it's a Jun style GTR hood that should match the repro Jun lip i have going on the front ... more to come soon !
    Last edited by cortexx; 06-02-2011, 11:26 PM.

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  • cortexx
    replied
    Of course Matty ... and Frank yes i'm mostly from England , but lived in Germany and also fairly well travelled ending up in South Western Ontario

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  • Matty
    replied
    Paul is from England.
    Love the DIY lines Paul. I cant wait to see this beast out this summer. Want to attend some events with us?

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  • frankiman
    replied
    Originally posted by cortexx View Post
    Update ..
    Got some more fittings today for the cam covers , so i cleaned all the drool and other body fluids from their reflective surfaces and chased out the threads in the bungs to make sure there was no swarf left in them..
    where you from dude?

    Leave a comment:

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