Project Dry Sump

[collector240sx]

I agree that the cost of parts are not much more than a proper built wet sump system (Tomei Pump, R34 Crank, Crank Bearings, Crank Damper, Baffle, Sump Extension, Oil Cooler/Filter Relocation). The difficulty of dry sump a BNR32 is to figure out where all the parts go and how to route those -12/10 lines, since the engine compartment in a BNR32 is very tight. I was very frustrated at some point ready to just give it up.

I will get some pricing information once I get some time to finish my CAD drawings.

You got that right, wanted to keep A/C, and some other stuff. But pretty much every way I could think of making it fit,
something was in the way. So got started in cleaning the bay a little bit. Every thing that can go somewhere else, is going
somewhere else.

[xcye]

You got that right, wanted to keep A/C, and some other stuff. But pretty much every way I could think of making it fit,
something was in the way. So got started in cleaning the bay a little bit. Every thing that can go somewhere else, is going
somewhere else.

I have just seen your project thread. I noticed the pump you got were supposed to be mounted on the right side of the engine, if the crank rotates clockwise (Standing in front of the car and facing the engine). I could be wrong, but you may want to double check with the manufacture.

[Super_Dude]

It doesn't matter which side of your crank it is on it will spin the same direction. Does your power steering and alternator spin in opposite directions?

[christdeyoung]

What does the inside of your pan look like? Is it just a flat piece of aluminum that slopes towards the back of the sump with the scavenge ports at the rear? Or do you have some sort of windage tray?

Unless I can find a reason not to, my tank will be mounted in the trunk for weight distribution, and sheer room. As far as I know there is nothing on the motor vehicle act that says that you can't have oil or fuel lines in the trunk.

[collector240sx]

It doesn't matter which side of your crank it is on it will spin the same direction. Does your power steering and alternator spin in opposite directions?

xcye, is talking about the pump pumping the wrong way. And like you said it doesn't matter which side you put it it still pump the same way. I could always just use a 2 belts system to reverse the cycle or like he said install it 180 degree, meaning not under the engine but facing it, which would have mean that the A/C wouldn't be in the way at all. Now it's the rad that would be in the way, unless I push it far enough to clear it.

Hum, I'll have to check a little more into this. I checked that the engine turned the same way, but never even considered that it could have been install that way. Now that you made me think about it it's very possible, and it might not necessarily be a bad thing.

Thanks

[xcye]

Yes, the pump spin the same way no matter which side you put it on. But you forget the fact that the mounting ears are only on one side of the pump. If you want to move the pump to the wrong side of the engine, then you have to rotate the pump 180 degrees to mount it on. Then your in-ports are all facing up while your out-ports are facing downwards. Now you see a problem, right?

So, normally, when you order a pump from a manufacture, they will ask you for the crank rotation and at which side of engine you want the pump to be mounted.

It doesn't matter which side of your crank it is on it will spin the same direction. Does your power steering and alternator spin in opposite directions?

[xcye]

xcye, is talking about the pump pumping the wrong way. And like you said it doesn't matter which side you put it it still pump the same way. I could always just use a 2 belts system to reverse the cycle or like he said install it 180 degree, meaning not under the engine but facing it, which would have mean that the A/C wouldn't be in the way at all. Now it's the rad that would be in the way, unless I push it far enough to clear it.

Hum, I'll have to check a little more into this. I checked that the engine turned the same way, but never even considered that it could have been install that way. Now that you made me think about it it's very possible, and it might not necessarily be a bad thing.

Thanks

Your pump seems meant to be mounted on the AC side of the engine in a normal way. If you plan to mount it under the alt (I have the impression that's where you want it to be mounted), then it needs to be turned or rotated 180 degrees.

[xcye]

What does the inside of your pan look like? Is it just a flat piece of aluminum that slopes towards the back of the sump with the scavenge ports at the rear? Or do you have some sort of windage tray?

Unless I can find a reason not to, my tank will be mounted in the trunk for weight distribution, and sheer room. As far as I know there is nothing on the motor vehicle act that says that you can't have oil or fuel lines in the trunk.

I have downward facing oil pick ups 2 in the front 1 at the rear of the sump. I will take a picture of the rear one in a later post. Yes, I have the stock windage trays on the block and modified stock oil pan tray in the sump. Sorry, I forgot to take any of those inside sump pictures, as I was so frustrated that I just put back everything as quick as I possibly could.

Sure, you can put the tank in the trunk. I put it in the front for simplicity.

[christdeyoung]

So how do you have your crankcase vents setup?
Did you orifice them or something to get better case vacuum from the scavenge stages?

[Super_Dude]

Yes, the pump spin the same way no matter which side you put it on. But you forget the fact that the mounting ears are only on one side of the pump. If you want to move the pump to the wrong side of the engine, then you have to rotate the pump 180 degrees to mount it on. Then your in-ports are all facing up while your out-ports are facing downwards. Now you see a problem, right?

So, normally, when you order a pump from a manufacture, they will ask you for the crank rotation and at which side of engine you want the pump to be mounted.

I just thought you meant it wouldn't spin the right direction. He will need different mounting sections but the majority will work.

[xcye]

So how do you have your crankcase vents setup?
Did you orifice them or something to get better case vacuum from the scavenge stages?

I am current running the stock set up. The plan is to keep the PCV connection, but reroute the hose that originally connects to intake hose before the rear turbo to a catch can that has a one-way pop off valve to atmosphere.

I just thought you meant it wouldn't spin the right direction. He will need different mounting sections but the majority will work.

That's right.

[christdeyoung]

So then normally the case would be under vacuum due to the scavenge pumps, and in the event that it needs to go positive, it vents out the catch can?

Also do you find you get much oil vapor smell from the tank vent?

[collector240sx]

Your pump seems meant to be mounted on the AC side of the engine in a normal way. If you plan to mount it under the alt (I have the impression that's where you want it to be mounted), then it needs to be turned or rotated 180 degrees.

I had initially bought it to go in the A/C position, that's why the bracket reflect that decision. I later decided that keeping the A/C would be nice, since I was selling my Tomei crank and simply wanted to build a mild build. Even with the bracket made for the other side of the engine, it would still be possible to fit under the Alt. with dual C shape type bracket like you find on the adjustment part of an alternator, but with so little space and with the lines it's just a big headache waiting to happen. Either way, since my parts weren't selling, they'll be going into the build, and A/C is going out, so I guess the dry sump is going where it was suppose to go all along.

Is there a reason you put your oil tank on the driver side, I'm thinking of putting it on the passenger side in mine because that's the side of the dry sump pump, and also the side I was planning to put the oil cooler, and I like minimizing the length of hoses necessary if possible.

[xcye]

So then normally the case would be under vacuum due to the scavenge pumps, and in the event that it needs to go positive, it vents out the catch can?

Also do you find you get much oil vapor smell from the tank vent?

Yes, vacuum due to Scavenge and PCV engine vacuum. If the crankcase pressure goes positive, then it vents to the catch can.

Yes, I get some oil vapor smell when the engine is hot. So, I plan to replace the vent filter with a hose and vent under and to the back the car.

I had initially bought it to go in the A/C position, that's why the bracket reflect that decision. I later decided that keeping the A/C would be nice, since I was selling my Tomei crank and simply wanted to build a mild build. Even with the bracket made for the other side of the engine, it would still be possible to fit under the Alt. with dual C shape type bracket like you find on the adjustment part of an alternator, but with so little space and with the lines it's just a big headache waiting to happen. Either way, since my parts weren't selling, they'll be going into the build, and A/C is going out, so I guess the dry sump is going where it was suppose to go all along.

Is there a reason you put your oil tank on the driver side, I'm thinking of putting it on the passenger side in mine because that's the side of the dry sump pump, and also the side I was planning to put the oil cooler, and I like minimizing the length of hoses necessary if possible.

I found that the intakes take too much space at that side to fit the tank, besides a hot tank should not be too close to the intake.

[BRN32]

Not very familiar with multi-stage pumps, are they individual in/out or common in/out?