I did the same thing with my long block, everything powder coated black, now the Itb side looks so clean!! Buri will be chroming my intake manifold n turbo
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Focused Motorsports BNR32
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Downpipe and Dump pipes
I started with all 304 stainless pipe and prebent mandrel bends. Mig welded with stainless wire ran short on mandrel bends so I had to pie cut a few pipes. Anyways here it is
3" Downpipe with Vband
2x 1.5" Dump pipes
Top view when tacked together
The dump pipes exit just behind the front subframe pointed out towards the passenger side.
Wastegates were fitted with 14 psi springs which should allow of peaceful driving in the city.Last edited by Imation; 05-20-2012, 11:58 PM.
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Originally posted by Imation View PostThe only reason I regret buying something stock is because of the huge amount of money that was needed to get it back into proper running condition. Repair work was neglected on my vehicle before it arrived, but I agree it is nice that everything is done the way I want it.Double track drift, yo.
http://www.meh.ro/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/meh.ro5228.gif
(o▫o sκylιnε o▫o)
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Well it's been sometime figured I would post an update.
With the single turbo installed for over a year and my new fuel system upgraded it was time for more power and enough with street tuning.
I made an appointment at Raven Autosports, Atlantic Canada's only shop with a load holding Mustang dyno. The first day we spent 8 hrs working on drive ability and boost transition, lets be honest most of us build race cars that spend 95% of the time on the street.
By the end of the car we had cooked the alternator and my voltage was dropping below 12V over 6000rpm.
Results:
2psi @ 2500
7psi @ 3400
21psi @ 4200rpm
Teaser Video
http://youtu.be/g0BlwQhu7WE?list=UUz...3FwvyuSVCWt-aA
Day 2
Replaced alternator with one from Nissan Quest.
Many of the online guides assume all RB26 alternators are the same to my enjoyment I found out this is not the case.
So here is my step by step because if you use the instructions you printed off from the NICO club forums throw them in the garbage now because they are not worth the ink printed on the paper.
First buy a new Nissan Quest alternator and throw away your warranty card.
Next grab a drill bit and a grinder to fit the old hardware, once this is complete and you surly cannot return it start digging through your shopping cart of old Nissan alternators. Why you might ask? To find a 4 rib pulley roughly the same diameter that will fit your new alternator, because your old GTR alternator pulley that should swap over wont unless you have a machine shop in your shed.
Once this is done break out the plate steel and that grinder again and fab up a new adjuster.
I know that was a poor step by step but if you are at all mechanical you can do this with not too much trouble and you have a new larger and slightly higher amperage alternator that will give your factory output of 13.9-14.9 volts.
Day 3
Back on the Dyno for some WOT fun.
http://youtu.be/ZVFj0J66x_w?list=UUZ...5s4nJbzJXZiE7A
End results:
486whp 371tq with 91 pump.
We had to stop at 21-22psi my clutch started slipping when we went for more timing.
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Originally posted by bobbo View PostAwwwesome! I'm glad to hear things went well at Raven.
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I've been giving some thought to having a go on that dyno. Not for numbers but to see if he can clean up a couple of areas I'm not 100% happy with.
I'd still rather have Robin come to Halifax or wait until next year and take another trip to Montreal, get the tune cleaned up some more and go to Trembant again.
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Nice thread Rob!1992 BNR32 Skyline
285hp / 220tq @ 15.5PSI On Mustang Dyno 2014-09-22
Current Build:
Precision 6264 Turbo 1.00A/R
Tomei PonCam Type B
Manley Titanium Valvetrain
CP Pistons / Manley Rods
Supertec Spline Drive Oil Gears/Drive
N1 water pump / N1 Oil Pump
Haltech Platnium Pro
AEM Water/Menthanol
Tomei FPR
Exedy Hyper Twin Clutch
May 9th, 2015 made 408whp @ 9PSI
Build Thread
http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gt-r-project-cars/62483-project-modworks-monster-r32-gtr-16.html
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