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  • R32 Nismo #129

    Hi All,

    (So is it rude to copy and paste posts we made on other forums to this one? Anyway, I've been documenting this on the Skylines Australia site).

    I've had my skyline (NISMO #129) for about a year now, but finally am getting down to the business of nurturing it back to health. Work's been pretty busy, I'm in the military stationed in Okinawa, but it's going to slow down for me in the next couple months.

    I believe the car's been through some hell, some kids just beat up on it and put underbody lights on it, as well as some shoddy electrical work. This is my 'rescue ride' of sorts. I'm looking to do a smooth and steady clean build, and will try to detail it on these. I'll admit to being new to this, so comments and critiques are welcome.

    Anyway, from what I can tell these were some of the things done to it:
    The original engine was replaced (dunno what they ended up doing to the original NISMO block, as that's a shame. Would have been a better collector vehicle had they kept it.)

    From what I was able to find, it looks like they put a N1-Nur in there. I'd appreciate independent confirmation on this as the only thread I could find about identifying it was this:
    http://www.skylinesa...-engine-number/

    Other research I did made it seem that the blocks were numbered sequentially with numbers starting with '1' originating in 1990, and '7' blocks were made generally in the 2000s.

    Anyway, I had to pull the engine because I found a bunch of oil in my coolant and thought I had blown my head gasket. Didn't bother doing a compression test because figured it would need to get rebuilt anyway. I wanted a fresh start with this vehicle all around as I'm getting it ready to head back to the US. My engine builder said from what he could tell, the engine was never pulled apart, but it did have N1 internals and the R34 CAS. Gold cam covers would imply a Nur as well, but those are easily replaced. We were a bit thrown off that all the exterior bits (N1 turbos with the 14411-06U00 part number and steel turines, oil pan) were R32 parts. Again, researching a bit more made me think they just replaced the block and put the original bits on there. It still had the original R32 1st Gen push-type tranny on there so they would have had to keep the front diff. I don't know if that would have meant they had to keep the R32 oil pan then, but it's a guess.

    Some good news was that the block was still good, and it seemed the head gasket was too, so it is still somewhat of a mystery how oil got into the coolant. The only other place I thought was the modine/oil heat exchanger. (My builder said it was unlikely because there was no coolant in the oil, usually it's a two way thing)

    Other mods, it had tein coil-overs put all around, some VIPER security system that kept acting up so I disconnected it, HKS air filters/SSBOV, and some HID lights that would sputter every so often. On the HID lights, I think it was faulty connections, so I will try to clean that up.

    NISMOs were originally gun metal grey, obviously this one was repainted (seemed like decent work, even got the inside of the engine bay and trunk. I guess white is a common color as it's the national racing color of Japan. Whomever owned this thing originally really went the full nine on it. I assume they went bankrupt along the way as the car made it's way into the hands of people with tighter and tighter budgets.

    Anyway, I have the following enroute

    Suspension NISMO all around:
    Front:
    54556-RS580: No 5 Front Upper Arm Set
    54501-RS585-R Circuit Link Set (right)
    54502-RS585-R Circuit Link Set (left)
    Rear:
    55135-RS580 No 12 - Rear Arm Link Set - Rear
    55550-RS580 No 8 - Rear A Arm Set - Left and Right Set

    Driveline:
    ORC-559D-01N - Ogura Racing Clutch (559 series twin plate, push type)

    Cooling:
    12024412 Greddy - Oil Cooler Kit - Relocation - Nissan
    *I figure probably best to replace the modine unit anyway, so I bought this.
    R020214 Koyo Aluminum Radiator

    Exhaust:
    10129001 Greddy Downpipe
    193084 Tomei Expreme Exhaust Manifold kit
    421101 Tomei Exhaust Turbo Turbine Elbow Pipes
    31019-AN011 HKS Silent High Power Exhaust

    Fuel:
    17042R585 Tomei Fuel Pump

    Engine:
    152009 Tomei Intake Camshaft Pulley
    152010 Tomei Exhaust Camshaft Pulley
    143018 Poncam Type-B Camshafts (260in/ex duration0

    Miscellaneous:
    NISMO parts
    54440-RS580 Reinforced Steering Gear Mount Bush
    11200-RS580: Engine Mounts
    56000S210: Tomei HICAS lock

    I sourced my parts from
    nengun.com and frsport.com
    So I'll let you know how they do on getting the right stuff to me.

    I threw all the part numbers in there because I was really anal about trying to research everything myself. If I was able to search by part number, that would have made things a lot easier, so hopefully my meticulousness will help someone else in the future.

    I mirrored my parts list off the Eric Hsu build on motoIQ:


    It made sense to me. Hopefully I don't screw this up.

    I really wanted a solid suspension and good flow first before I really dug into the boost and ECU. http://www.topendperformance.com offered a great deal on the Haltech ECU, a compatible rail and FPR, and RC Engineering 1000cc injectors. After purchasing all those parts above at once, and paying for the engine rebuild, I'm a still hesitant about jumping straight into the standalone process. More $$$, more time. Also, we don't have a dyno or a good tuner here. It will be a good bit of time until I can make it back to the States and bring the car to a proper tuner, so I'm still debating it. I plan on doing it, but whether I do it this month or within the next year is the question.

    Overall my goal would be a 400whp daily driver. Now, with all the parts that are going in, a lot more power could be achieved, so we'll see. It's more important to me I have a reliable car than something that's going to be a dyno wonder.

    Anyway, a newbie's thoughts. Welcome any advice. Thanks!




    Last edited by maxster17a; 11-22-2012, 09:45 AM.

  • #2
    Good startup so far!

    This link doesn't work: http://www.motoiq.co...e-1-part-2.aspx
    With the RC 1000cc, I might have gone with the injector dynamics (much more smooth idle) just sayin...

    Good luck with build!
    My sky got 99 problems but to find bitches ain't one

    Once you go sky; Parts you're going to buy...

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks for the heads up. I'll see how the RC Injectors work out. They're already enroute. So we'll see. Thanks for the input though.

      You know, I had somewhat of an issue on a Mitsu 3000GT project with a hunting idle using a set of 750cc injectors from RC. Hmm... I always figured it was a tuning problem (since I was the one tuning). I try not to blame the equipment first.

      Link updated.

      Had not heard of injector dynamics before. Might have to look them up a bit more based on your rec. Seems like they are priced competitively too.
      Last edited by maxster17a; 11-22-2012, 09:54 AM.

      Comment


      • #4
        I'm running Rc750s and I haven't had a problem... The lAg times and be funny to figure out tho
        95 R33 Gtr

        RICE - Race Inspired Cosmetic Enhancement

        Comment


        • #5
          If you aren't going for 800hp then the injectors are way to big. 750cc would have been more than enough and easier to tune for driving in traffic. It can be done, I am running 1000cc, but gas mileage will suffer a bit and you will get hunting and general pissyness idling around parkinglots and such. I don't think its all that bad, I grew up with grumpy V8s that had huge cams and carbs and this is a cakewalk, some don't like it. The ECU you picked is very good though and you should be able to smooth it out.

          I would do yourself a huge favour though and go through ALL the wiring. You never know what you'll find.


          I loved Okinawa, stayed on Aka island for 2 days, hope to visit there again someday


          Jon.
          Why don't you come over to MySpace and Twitter my Yahoo untill I Google all over your Facebook.

          1990 GTR Drag Special T88H34D 11.24 @ 127.55mph at only 1.2bar...... officially. SOLD

          Comment


          • #6
            I don't know what's his power goal (sure 1000ccs is way too big for 400whp), but you never know what kind of power you'll want in a year or two... x2 for the Haltech (even tho I don't have the finance for it... Yey PFC!)
            My sky got 99 problems but to find bitches ain't one

            Once you go sky; Parts you're going to buy...

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Fred-R View Post
              Good startup so far!

              This link doesn't work: http://www.motoiq.co...e-1-part-2.aspx
              !
              i fixed it
              sigpic

              [links to all chapters in first post]

              Comment


              • #8
                The photos are pretty small for me, what color is it? looks like a cross between silver and white...seeing as there were only 560 of the chassis produced, it would be nice to see it brought back to its original shape. I would love to have one of those vin plates.

                Good luck on the build my friend! The nice thing about this is that when you're shipped back to the US you can bring the car with you (assuming you're there for a few years...those cars will be legal in 2015)
                Victory is on the horizon..

                Comment


                • #9
                  DragonHumper: Thanks for the advice. Yep, while the engine was getting rebuilt, the first thing I started going through was the wiring. I found something I didn't know what to make of, comments below. That's cool you spent some time here on Okinawa, did you live here or were just passing though? I like it as well, and did a trip to Aka this last summer. Beautiful place, and just really nice people.

                  Oakville: It is a pearl white I think. I haven't been able to put it side by side to a white skyline to see if it was an exact match for a Nissan paint scheme. I also don't know how to resize my photos if I'm linking them in from google+. I'll try researching that later.



                  anyone know what this is?

                  I found it with both terminals attached to the negative side of my battery. No idea what it does.

                  The wiring was a nightmare. Pulled off some shoddy Viper and Hornet system.

                  Never realized underbody lights could have that much wiring though.

                  Found the steering column adjustment is loose. If I crank hard enough on the steering wheel it won't stay in place. Looks like the spacer/washer for the tension bolt has bent in the last 20 years of use. (Not sure if I'm using the right terminlogy at all). Pretty easy fix.

                  Anyone have/seen good ideas on the center console? I'm thinking of doing some kind of custom job and wiring a tablet PC in there. Especially if I do a PnP ECU. Think that'd be pretty interesting. I do like old style gauges though. We'll see, one step at a time



                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Alright, so I thought it was time to update this post.

                    Wow, it's already been a month. I wish I could say I was completely done at this point, but this project has literally taken a stranglehold on my life for the last month. I can imagine a lot of people on this forum can relate to the obsession of trying to get a car done as quickly as possible. Sometimes the parts you need aren't there when you need them. As a side note, Okinawa is a terrible place to do custom work unless you know the right people.

                    So for OEM stuff, I'll put a shout out to Toguchi Auto Parts. If you work on cars on Okinawa, keep this place in mind.
                    Upgarage is another option. They've got some interesting things from time to time. Check out the website (use the button with the magnifying glass to search parts). They can order from mainland, but there's a pretty good shipping charge involved, so be ready for that.
                    Obviously yahoo auctions works, but if you don't have a Japanese credit card or bank account it can be a pain.
                    Bill at BandM Motors was the biggest help. He's usually pretty swamped though, so come to him prepared with exactly what you want. Great source for used parts too since he's into the local drift scene.
                    The junkyard thing really was not fruitful for me. There are a lot of people better at it than I am, so for me it was better to go through the above sources.
                    Finally, Tomo at Torii Auto Skills was great, thanks a lot for the patience. Sorry to keep you past closing time all those days.

                    I'd like to thank Matt of MJR Performance, AKA the writer of this how to build article on the RB26. Matt, thanks a lot for the build. Greatly appreciate having "the guru" actually work on my motor. Let's hope I don't F this up.

                    If you're a car guy on Okinawa, that's my 2cents on who and where to go. There are guys that specialize in their own areas as well, but I'll leave that to them to get their names out.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Alright, step 1 was Electrical

                      This is what I had to start with:


                      That was...
                      Some Viper alarm system that would short out periodically and not let the car start until I reset it
                      Greddy turbo timer
                      3x different horn systems, that never seemed to work when I had the car
                      2x different sets of underbody lights
                      2x different sets of interior LED systems that flickered more than worked
                      Greddy turbo gauge
                      Some solar power battery charger crap that drained my battery

                      Probably some stuff I'm forgetting, but if it didn't look stock, I pulled it



                      A guy I know will be happy to figure out how to use these things

                      So now I have:


                      There's still a little bit of cleaning, but at least I don't have to worry about having a foot caught in a tangle of wire and dying of the inevitable electrical fire

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Alright,

                        So there was a mixup at Nengun with my order which meant
                        So there was a mixup at Nengun with my order which meant
                        54556-RS580: No 5 Front Upper Arm Set
                        and NISMO motor/tranny mounts did not come in.

                        However, everything else went on, and I'll get pictures of those up soon
                        54501-RS585-R Circuit Link Set
                        54502-RS585-R Circuit Link Set
                        55135-RS580 No 12 - Rear Arm Link Set - Rear
                        55550-RS580 No 8 - Rear A Arm Set - Left and Right Set
                        55125-RS580 No 10 - Rear Arm Link Set - Rear

                        For the fronts the circuit link set does change some of the geometry from stock. The rears, nothing changes. I wanted new bushings all around as this car is close to 20 years old. I figured it would be worth it to just go for NISMO pieces all around. I could not afford some of the nicer adjustable ones out there (ikeya formula, etc.). I figure less for me to screw around with though.






                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Alright, so this was a long time coming.

                          Car's registered and legal in Massachusetts. I dropped it off at Kaizen Tuning and they have made some recommendations as far as taking this project further. I'm just looking for input from the gurus here.

                          Sorry, no pics as I'm deployed right now, but will be back in a month or so and post them up.

                          Kaizen Recommendations (by priority):

                          Coil Pack Harness
                          New Coil Packs
                          Gauges (some wiring issues I wasn't able to finish - boost & A/F), + an aftermarket oil pressure gauge, and convert to a MAP setup

                          Custom hardpipe intake
                          Mishimoto aluminum radiator with electric fans
                          Oil Cooler install
                          Fuel Lines to XRP race hose (some hard lines were damaged I guess from an improper jack point, no leaks, but may be a problem)
                          Transmission inspection, potentially broken rear seal
                          Turbo inspection, possible blown turbo
                          Replace down pipe
                          HICAS delete

                          *some other notes
                          The car wasn't making boost, but am pretty sure it is a vacuum leak that needs to be figured out Kaizen told me that they saw oil in the intake piping so they are suspecting a blown turbo.


                          My personal goal for this build is a daily driver that will make safe power with the stock N1 turbos on it. I would like to track it once in a while, but that's not the primary purpose of the car. I just want something reliable I can drive around town that makes good power while keeping its NISMO character. After sorting out the electronics/engine/turbos, my priorities are the drivetrain then suspension.

                          This is a really slow build for me because of the moving and school. Car just got here about two months ago, and now I’m TDY for most of the summer. I dropped the car of at Kaizen primarily so they could install the Haltech ECU, track down why it wasn’t boosting, and be an expert eye to check what else needed to be done. My goal is that the car should get tuned unless there is something like a blown turbo that would prevent it from doing so.



                          So here's what I’m thinking based on their feedback, I’m also listing by priority.

                          Buy Spitfire coil packs with new harness. (coils from FRSport, harness probably eric’s performance parts)

                          Oil cooler – I had a generic kit on there that was a desperate install as I was PCS’ing and had to get the car together for it to be shipped. So all kinds of fitment issues. They’ll reposition it and put new hoses on it. That sounded good to me. *the modine unit had leaked previously so that was removed and this kit installed

                          Turbos – Kaizen’s asking to take them off to inspect these as well, but I didn’t see any smoke while driving it. Overall, there probably isn’t more than 20 miles in the USA thus far. I never honked on it though either since it wasn’t boosting. I’ve heard that blown turbos don’t always smoke. I’m thinking to just have them try to tune it first because if the turbos aren’t blown it couldn’t hurt right? Assuming they are ok I save on the labor costs of removal and physical inspection. At a minimum I want them to verify the vacuum lines, boost controller, and actuators are working properly.

                          Gauges – I have an A-pillar mount, so will probably put them there (boost, A/F)
                          I was thinking of doing something different for the center console by installing a computer there. Touchscreen monitor, so a low brow version of the Tesla setup. What this does is allow me to interface with the Haltech without having to plug in a laptop, and also set up a custom gauge display. *reason why gauges ranks so high is because Kaizen is saying it will help in the tuning.

                          Fuel lines – I don’t remember how bad it looked, but I was considering waiting on this to do it myself. If they’re about to go, then I will definitely replace them. Just a matter of going custom braided lines or OEM.

                          Custom intake – they quoted me at $1200+ The advantage would be with the MAP setup the AFMs could be removed. I’m sure Kaizen would do a good job appearance wise, but I’m just not sure if it’s necessary. I really just want the car running now and may revisit this later when the budget allows.

                          Transmission – Ugh, after having just pulled the motor and tranny before having to ship the car, and the $1500 they are asking for labor, it’s making me hesitant. I’m still waiting to clarify if it’s because they observed a leak, or if they just want to inspect it. I don’t remember any leaks when I had everything out, but it was my first time (and we all know how that goes). I may have messed up and didn’t replace the seals or didn’t put them in correctly. (I thought I did, but this was over a year ago and I just can’t remember) The clutch wasn’t slipping when I drove it to them, but again, it wasn’t really pushed that hard yet.

                          HICAS delete – I was researching switching out for an S14 subframe, removing all the HICAS BS, and switching out the power steering pump. Anybody out there done this? Some parts look to be the same based on the NISMO catalog, but others, like the rear lower control arms are not, so I’ll have to keep digging into it. I believe offset bushings are required. Most of the link bushings were replaced in the transition to NISMO pieces, but I think the swaybar and subframe bushings need to be taken care of. My thought was that the subframe switch gets rid of the HICAS, saves me from buying a lock out kit, lets me switch bushings I needed to anyway, and with the S14 – gives me a wider rear track.

                          Electric fans + radiator – I think I’ll pass on this one, although it looks like the mishimoto setup is ~$500. I’m still pissed about that Koyo radiator that got taken out by my waterpump. There is a stock-size aluminum replacement (another koyo) in there right now. I just don’t feel like buying another radiator having barely used this one.



                          That was based on Kaizen’s feedback. Other plans I have are the following. I think I will be able to pass through Japan next month, so I was hoping to pick up some parts while I’m in the area from R-international (Hisashi Hara). For sure ones that are more expensive to get stateside. (I’ll probably be hoarding interior trim pieces off yahoo auctions as much as I can in my spare time).

                          NISMO front and rear 1.5 LSDs
                          NISMO white gauge cluster *purely for aesthetics, and because I’m paranoid they will disappear since the car is so old now.
                          NISMO short shift kit

                          I don’t think I can afford it just yet, but I was thinking of getting the 1,2,3 OS Giken gear kit and use that to rebuild the spare transmission I have. (Another reason why I don’t want to pull the transmission off the car now, I figure I can replace it with this spare if it really starts to go. For me, it drives fine now). *figure this won’t be necessary unless I go for bigger turbos, but if I’m going to need to replace the tranny, I’d rather just do it with something bulletproof.

                          Also, wondering about rebuilding the transfer case? Read on some of the forums that the clutches in here can wear and can limit the effectiveness of the ATTESA-ETS system. So another wish list mod would be this programmable controller.


                          Ok, I think that’s plenty to keep me busy for the next year. Thoughts?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            welcome back to the states man, and specifically the East Coast! Thanks for your military service.

                            i wondered who the white Nismo that sean brought in was for, and it's nice to connect you with the car.

                            i had to debate between buying a Nismo or buying a 1989, and I couldn't bring myself to buy a Nismo because I knew that if i did I would want to restore it to 100% stock with maybe some Nismo upgrade parts on it only. I bought an 89 so I can have more of a clear conscience molesting it.

                            i haven't heard of anyone switching an S-car subframe onto an R-car. i know guys have put BCNR33 or BNR34 subframes under BNR32 cars, and I believe those require offset bushings. a non-HICAS s14 rear subframe sounds interesting for sure.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Think I will hold off on the subframe now. Probably just do the R33 pump switch and pull off the rear steering rack. Bit harder to source spindles and all the other accompanying components. Maybe later on in life.

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