BCNR33 V-Spec - Beginner build

[leung23c]

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[leung23c]

Few questions I have in mind:

1. I have Jun valve springs and Titanium valve retainers, 10,000km old used parts. The valve springs can be tested for spring pressure to verify its reliability but what about the Ti retainers? I have heard people saying they are completely sales pitch with no particular use at all, and others say they increase valvetrain durability. However one thing I seem to agree (more like following internet thing) is they wear out quicker than the stock steel retainer counterpart. One way to address this issue is WPC treat the Ti retainers, like how Jun offers it as an option

2. Should I worry about front diff? It looks like it cannot be changed unless engine is out, and If they fail, or explode in some cases, part of it will fly through the oil pan, thus toasting the entire engine.

3. What is the best piston I should get? Mahle makes Ferrari F1 engine piston so for sure they know their ****, yet some members from SAU complain they have the smallest piston skirt and rattle the worst when cold. CP piston is good **** but they expand more than Tomei, hence more rattle at cold, though not the end of the world. N1 piston is a nice choice for 550~600hp range but they are, afterall, CASTED, not bulletproof. For the price I prefer to go with CP, and I have NOTHING against any other brands besides monetary reason.

[leung23c]

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[leung23c]

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[amnash]

im excited to see how that block turns out!! crazy

[Bruizer]

You mention monetary restrictions but some of your parts don't fit that guideline.
Don't forget it's all as weak as the weakest part don't worry about the front diff, there are no reports on such failures.
Forget any WPC process, won't fit your budget well.

CP pistons and carrillo rods are a good combo. or cp/eagle if you're tight which are fine.

Wait... you have crazy parts in your head, you need more parts to support that thing! What are you doing for oiling and drivetrain?

I've been where you are with the engine, same situation (newly built engine, failed at the same place too) but I'm to blame. Hence why I'm trying to go back to mustangs! hahaha No unreliable gtr woes.

[leung23c]

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[Bruizer]

yeah go all out for sure, none of that half ass stuff

[xcye]

For the money, may as well go for drysump.

No matter what, you also need a better crank damper, ROSS or ATi.

My money is spent of examination and testing of each components and the best possible machining and assembly. BEL is excellent at their work and I will take my chances. Since every single part is disassembled and tested and measured I realized I may as well just go all out....

As for oiling:
Tomei pump
Mine's cam baffles
Hi-octane extended sump
Breather-to-catch can-to-exhaust pipe
Accusump oil surge tank with manual valve

Okay back to waiting haha~

[r32_nate]

My money is spent of examination and testing of each components and the best possible machining and assembly. BEL is excellent at their work and I will take my chances. Since every single part is disassembled and tested and measured I realized I may as well just go all out....

As for oiling:
Tomei pump
Mine's cam baffles
Hi-octane extended sump
Breather-to-catch can-to-exhaust pipe
Accusump oil surge tank with manual valve

Okay back to waiting haha~

what about ur oil pump drive? Il be doing the spool RB spline drive set up. But you should do something, it would be a shame to do all this and then skip ur pump and pop goes the RB

[leung23c]

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[Bruizer]

I have a race ATI damper for sale. It's the "up to 1000hp" version not the 500 hp.

Without the drysump the oiling system is always questionable.

Oh, are they blue printing your engine? Or just building it for you? I had a "professional" engine built by a bc shop that did what bel is doing and it lasted 1200 km. Just curious what assurance you have that you won't have another failure.

[leung23c]

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[Skym]

Tune, bedding the engine in properly (would suggest this be done on a engine dyno, just like how the V6 R35 GTR engines are bed in at factory) plays a role in the engine staying together.

But with higher hp engines, race engines you would only expect 3000km from them before a routine rebuild is needed (doesn't matter if it's a V8 or straight 6) if driven hard all the time. If driven conservatively (occasional trackday but mainly road use), 100,000km is possible.

If the clearances are digitially set, bottomend weighed, balanced, crack tested, etc, then shouldn't have problems.

Upgrading the girdle setup to custom CNC crank caps, girdle plate, etc helps with harmonics that crack the block and strengthens the bottom of the block (also upgrading engine mounts which I think contribute to this failure). I believe this custom girdle setup idea is taken from the V6 (look at the V6 in the R35 GTR), V8 engines that have the lower half of the engine that's one piece. So it's nothing new, just adapted to another engine.

[r32_nate]

They build my engine using all of their knowledge and skills and shop's capability. That's enough for me. They guarantee all of my clearances and machining and assembly will be absolutely perfect. They also have good reputation around the block.

But cant know for sure until it's built

Oh and they have one condition: I "must" tune the car at RCTS. So I won't inadverdently have someone cook my engine.

honestly, people get way to caught up in the most guaranteed and advanced way of building engines anyways. im building mine myself, honed it myself, checked clearances myself. only thing the machine shop has done is crank gears and a plain, because i dont have a lathe unfortunately.