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BCNR33 V-Spec - Beginner build
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That block turned out pretty good considering what it used to look like.
what are your plans for the engine? because ARP main studs are overkill on these engines since they have a full girdle setup. would be different if they for individual main caps can even reuse the bolts as they're not stretch torque. i bought them for my rb20 when i did it because i didn't know any better. no need to spend extra money if you don't want.
"Yes, those are the stock crank cap bolts. Guys were making over 1,000hp with them long before ARP started making studs, including this engine, with no problems. Maybe with individual caps, but not with a girdle that shares the load and keeps caps from walking around. Are studs a good investment? You bet!, Do I need them? Nope." -http://www.skylife4ever.com/2011/04/...-to-build.html- Adam
:
http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gts-project-cars/44846-project-nashzilla-r32-gt-t-neo.html
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Originally posted by leung23c View PostFew questions I have in mind:
1. I have Jun valve springs and Titanium valve retainers, 10,000km old used parts. The valve springs can be tested for spring pressure to verify its reliability but what about the Ti retainers? I have heard people saying they are completely sales pitch with no particular use at all, and others say they increase valvetrain durability. However one thing I seem to agree (more like following internet thing) is they wear out quicker than the stock steel retainer counterpart. One way to address this issue is WPC treat the Ti retainers, like how Jun offers it as an option
2. Should I worry about front diff? It looks like it cannot be changed unless engine is out, and If they fail, or explode in some cases, part of it will fly through the oil pan, thus toasting the entire engine.
3. What is the best piston I should get? Mahle makes Ferrari F1 engine piston so for sure they know their ****, yet some members from SAU complain they have the smallest piston skirt and rattle the worst when cold. CP piston is good **** but they expand more than Tomei, hence more rattle at cold, though not the end of the world. N1 piston is a nice choice for 550~600hp range but they are, afterall, CASTED, not bulletproof. For the price I prefer to go with CP, and I have NOTHING against any other brands besides monetary reason.
You can service the front diff in the car but its a pretty tight fitLast edited by EricG-SkylineGTR; 03-07-2015, 01:41 AM.
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wow that sucks man... ive delt with charles lots and havent had an issue looks like BEL has you all sorted I bet that makes you feel a million times better... ive had a freshly rebuilt engine blow up after waiting 9 months for the build to complete and there's nothing worse then having to wait longer after that...
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after having my engine RE and RE'd twice by a vancouver shop in 2009, just recently over the last year or so ive dug deep into the car changing lots of things and doing lots of repairs on shotty sh*tty a$$ work that could have been prevented had the person spent a tiny bit of planning time and cared a bit more... u can trust yourself to do a good job... the rest is a gamble
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PS. i love your sumpLast edited by curtisgoodman; 05-01-2015, 08:10 PM.
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Name Charles Wong rings a bell wasn't he building an R32 with a VQ engine? That just sucks if he scammed you!
Originally posted by leung23c View PostBefore I sent my engine parts to BEL in Edmonton I had my cylinder head serviced at fleet guide truck and trailer in Saskatoon. I ordered valve guide install, ream guide then cut valve seats for my valves. It turns out they did a completely crap job on my head.
BEL blueprinted my head and found all the intake valve seats were cut badly (greatly out of tolerance, 28 thou vs 2 thou limit) and one intake guide needs to be replaced because it wasn't installed correctly. If nothing was done to rectify the situation my engine would guarantee blow up. So yeah....I thought of calling truck and trailer and started arguing with them but then, they won't give a **** anyway and they will keep doing shitty job and screw people up and stay in business....
BEL suggests that instead of fitting new seats and re-cut them once again, I should just get oversized intake valves and cut the existing seats. I give them go-ahead.
Then BEL also found that the Jun valve springs and Ti retainer Charles Wong sold me, are just OEM springs and OEM retainers....whatever....just disappointed and at the same time glad my engine seems to be in good care. Ordered a set of Cosworth spring now and since I was gonna reuse oem retainers anyway so it's all good.
Who can I actually trust nowadays?Supertec Racing
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Why don't you just get a brand new OEM head. It only costs around $2000 last time I checked. It revs to 8K with no problem.
Originally posted by leung23c View PostBefore I sent my engine parts to BEL in Edmonton I had my cylinder head serviced at fleet guide truck and trailer in Saskatoon. I ordered valve guide install, ream guide then cut valve seats for my valves. It turns out they did a completely crap job on my head.
BEL blueprinted my head and found all the intake valve seats were cut badly (greatly out of tolerance, 28 thou vs 2 thou limit) and one intake guide needs to be replaced because it wasn't installed correctly. If nothing was done to rectify the situation my engine would guarantee blow up. So yeah....I thought of calling truck and trailer and started arguing with them but then, they won't give a **** anyway and they will keep doing shitty job and screw people up and stay in business....
BEL suggests that instead of fitting new seats and re-cut them once again, I should just get oversized intake valves and cut the existing seats. I give them go-ahead.
Then BEL also found that the Jun valve springs and Ti retainer Charles Wong sold me, are just OEM springs and OEM retainers....whatever....just disappointed and at the same time glad my engine seems to be in good care. Ordered a set of Cosworth spring now and since I was gonna reuse oem retainers anyway so it's all good.
Who can I actually trust nowadays?
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