last engine removal question

[Matty]

hey gtrc

finally had a few hours to work on the car again and its close to being out now.

i have to build my hoist tommarow and then i can start work again.

my question regards the tranny bolts. i havent gotten a clear explanation yet but when getting the upper bellhousing bolts off, i can lift the motor a few inches and then bring it forward. then i would rest it on the front crossmember and that will enable me room to get at the bolts from up top on the hood side?


with the tranny and rear driveshaft still connected will then be able to move forward a few inches?



and for the starter and wiring harness thats located under the plenum, i cant seem to get at them. i have a good view from under the car with the fron prop shaft out of the way but not enough room to get my hand sin there to start removing things.

can i get at these after bringing the motor up a bit so that the plenum sits a bit higher then the strut tower top so that i can get at these parts? or will that not work?

thanks guys for your patience and answers - gtrc truly is the best forum ive been a part of! :bow down:

[cbileske]

im pretty sure that is how i got the bellhousing bolts out. or maybe remove the blocks from the mounts and then it can drop 2 inches or so. The starter is a pain but it came out with the engine sitting there on the mounts. i had help from the top side of the engine.

[falcon]

I undid mine by dropping the subframe a bit, and using a lot of extentions to get at them from under the car. You will also need a swivel. Really quick and easy to do it this way.

You will have trouble brining the engine forward, it catches on A LOT of things. It comes out easiest (the engine).. up and slightly tilted. You dont take it out forward so much.

[superdaveosbourne]

Like Falcon said, just loosen up the front subframe a bit and the motor will angle itself down in the rear enough to get at the bolts. If you're lucky and/or good it's a matter of minutes once you figure out how many extensions you need. Good luck man!

[Matty]

i was really hoping not to drop the subframe

any other ways? ive read threads where people didnt drop the sub, or atlats negelctedto meniton that in their write up

on a brighter note, the lift is built, and ready for its first taste of action

just wiating on the tranbsbolts

i was thinking liofting the motor a few inches to give me more room to unbolt the mounts off the side of the block, and then lower the motor down onto the sub.

[kelaog]

i was really hoping not to drop the subframe

any other ways? ive read threads where people didnt drop the sub, or atlats negelctedto meniton that in their write up

on a brighter note, the lift is built, and ready for its first taste of action

just wiating on the tranbsbolts

i was thinking liofting the motor a few inches to give me more room to unbolt the mounts off the side of the block, and then lower the motor down onto the sub.

When I did my motor we undid the tranny mounts and the drift shaft to allow the engine to tilt backwards, this allowed for a lot of access from underneith the car to remove the top bolts. I had to remove the starters cap thing to get at one of them thouhg. It took a while but we got them undone. After that we popped the motor mount nuts, and nice and easy the motor came out no problem. I didn't drop the subframe or any of that stuff.. I'd prefer not to honestly.

[cbileske]

yeah i agree with kealog, i just put mine back in tonight (mounted to tranny) i took out the driver side motor mount block so the engine can drop down a bit and also let the back end of the tranny drop down on a jack. then i used a ratchet a long extension and a swivel on the end. they went in good. then for the starter a stubby 14mm.

[bnr324life]

the easiest way I've found to take those two nasty bellhousing bolts out is as follows:

1) place floor jack underneath center of rear transmission cross-bar (the bar that has the transmission mount on it.

2) remove transmission cross-bar bolts (2 on each side) and lower floor jack a few inches (the rear driveshaft can still be connected as it has enough play in the u-joints to allow the transmission to drop a few inches. You might have to loosen the 2 bolts on the steady bearing tho can't fully remember)

3) once the transmission/engine is tilted downward a bit more slam your 14mm swivel socket with a 3 foot long extension and take the two bolts out.

4) raise floor jack and finger tighten 4 cross-bar bolts (finger tighten because you'll probably take them out again for the install)

[Matty]

i would like to try some of these suggestions, but the dam driver axel is giving me **** again

it slipped back into place and once again is not budging...its just too frustrating now to do work at this point (just the collar slipped in, the axel shaft is out but does not have enough room to back all the way out)