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Ive run that set up where you guys are talking about getting your vacc from the exhaust. I agree you can get some extra power but from what Ive seen personally is that on high hp set ups we were having issues with the large amount of blow by we were getting using this system. This was on a drift car with over 500hp tho. I would imagine that it could be a good idea with a drag car but thats for you to decide. I had vapor shooting out of exhaust like we blew a head gasket and a full catch after just a few hard laps on a half mile oval. tho we were running clockwise around the track doesn't help but when I changed over to a moroso can with a breather on top with one 5/8 line from the split at the covers we had no problems for the rest of the season other than normal seepage.
This was a rb25 fyi in case you needed to know, running tdo6 25G 16cm hot.
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does anyone have any detailed pictures or how to's on installing an oil catch can on the rb26? i picked up 1 but am not sure on the install.
any help would be appreciated
I need a pic too, seems to be a bunch of different ways to set up a catch can. Can someone draw out a generic pic for dumbies an maybe a mod can sticky it in the DIY's or FAQ section???
heres my setup. i spun the breathers and run them into a T which go on one side of the can and the other side goes into tho factory hole right before the turbo
I have been searching about this as I am looking to instal a s-max can. If the can has a breather on top would I still have to plum the line out the bottom of the engine bay, or could I just route the piping from one cover to the the can and back to the next cover? Any help would be great.
Frankiman's setup is pretty nice, his valve covers are way nicer then they used to be and they were nice in NUR gold.
Anyways if your engine is older then run it like Frankiman's, on a fresh rebuild vent the blow by gases to the atmosphere. It might smell a bit in traffic but at least that 93 or 94 octane that you pay extra for doesn't end up being 87 octane because its full of oil vapors. IMHO if your car is not a track whore then just leave the stock setup or get a Nismo Oil/Water Separator.
During the winter, I bought a used Cusco catch can, without any of its mounting hardware (used and low price)
So first I had to find a good way to mount the can itself
I bought 2” neoprene hose clamps
Then I straightened them, put them back to back
And voila they fit perfectly into the can’s slot
Then I cut a piece the shape of the can out of the thickest piece of packaging foam i could find
after that i placed the can where i wanted it to be, marked the spot for the holes, drilled the wholes and glued the foam piece to the body using 3M spray-on adhesive
then put the can in place
then i used the oem hose from the exhaust valve cover to rear turbo intake
wait WTF is this ?
i cut it up and this is what i find inside, a restrictor in the narrower end and a brush thingy in the larger end... o k
a couple months ago i had custom reducers made by Tuboquip
its a 5/8" steel tube, flared at one end and crimped to 3/8" at the other end
the hole at the 3/8" was a bit small because of the compressed material, so i drilled it larger on my press drill, i love soft steel
and i originally bought white transparent nylon hose, but decided it would look funky in my engine bay, so i switched to regular black hydraulic hose (3/8")
then connected the hose together using the reducer, oem spring clamps, and a fuel line clamp
(it actually looked much better afterwards)
that hose was then connected to the intake valve cover
since i don't have any Hicas components anymore, i used the empty space formelly taken by the hicas selenoid to bolt a small bracket to guide the hoses to the catch can
because i didn't want them to be too visible and in the way of anything, the hoses partially run underneath the intake manifold
ran the first hose to the can then cut it to the appropriate length (i only bough a 10 footer of hose)
after that, i used the longer bit of the oem hose i cut earlier, and with the reducer, connected the second line directly into the stock rear turbo intake port
ran that line along the fire wall, over the engine,
and as you can see, i used silicon caps to block the PCV and exhaust valve cover outlet
and with some custom bracketering wizardry and neoprene hose clamps, i made a support bolted to the intake manifold to hold the hoses to guide them
then ran that second hose through the same guide as the first one and connected both of them to the can
now this setup is good for daily driving, when oil temps are low,
but since my car is prepared to hit the track every week, i need something else to take care of the added blow-by gases and higher oil temps that occurs on the track
(and when you're pushing the engine to its limits, you really don't want to loose octane levels)
so i ordered a K&N crank case breather with a 3/8" OD inlet, from canadian tire
and i'm currently sourcing a 3 way valve just like this; (well actually this exact valve)
then i'll be able to easily switch between an atmospheric release and recirculation
btw, engine bay is almost done, compare this with the old picture, hehe,
Frankiman if your car has lots of blow-by you CANNOT run that valve setup on your catch can. Your car will act funny, its because with a lot of blow-by the engine tune will be complete different if you run the vent-to-atmosphere vs. running it recirc. Your engine is most likely old so your car will have a decent amount of blow-by compared to a fresher engine. Another thing though is your catch can is un-baffled like most catch cans, which is also another bad thing. An unbaffled catch can will put more blow-by oil vapors back into the engine (if its running recirc) then a baffled catch can (its pretty obvious). So what I'm saying is that if your engine has a decent amout of blow-by make the catch can recirc but use a baffled can (you can modify your cusco or greddy/trust cans to be baffled). If your engine has little blow-by then run a catch-can (baffled or not) and vent-to-atmosphere.
if i get a different tune setup on my boost controller for atmo mode, could that help
do you have an exemple of the internals of a baffled catch can, i know what baffles are but for a catch can i'm wondering how its setup,
and i guess i could have autoworx cut it open, weld an aluminum plate in it, then weld it back shut
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