R32 GTR brake rotor upgrade, FAIL

[C-unit]

^ agree, 300zx is the same as R32 GTS-t caliper/rotors, GTR has different diameter rotors and caliper. This is why it won't fit.

[ChrisCheezer]

ok the verdict is final,
will not work, can't even shim it or add to the adapter.

thanx for the effort

[NismoS-tune]

If you're really wanting upgrades, just check out aftermarket rotors and pads. Hawk, EBC, they are cheap, powerful and best of all, DIRECT BOLT ON FITMENT!!

[collector240sx]

WWWWWWHHHHHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAATTTTTTT!!!!!!?!?!?!?! ?!?

I'm talking about a larger rotor, your talking about some whack OEM wheel

This thread SUCKS, you guys have no info and no idea what your talking about... its pretty frustrating,

Sheesh

I didn't read your post really good and thought your where talking about the
space between the caliper and the wheel. Sssooorrrrrrrrryyy.

It's not really a big problem, just take a couple of mesurement, how the hell
do you think the first adapter braket for that kit was made. If you already
had that braket in your possetion and noticed it was off, just take
mesurement of the difference, and bring those mesurement to a shop so
that someone can make one for you if you can't make it your self.

Really, I can't see what the big fuss is about, your onely talking about a
small piece of metal here. For a good metal shop it should be a breeze
to make with nothing more than a couple mesurement.

If you can't draw, it doesn't really madder, it's the number that madders.
the drawing can help a great deal to help visualise it.


So even if I don't really wan't to help you right now, because it seams
you don't really have a clue what your doing, here is what I would start
with.

Take the dimension between the two bolts on the braket where the caliper
is usually bolted. Take the mesurement of the bolt thats going to go
throught thoses holes.

Take a scrap piece of metal drill 2 holes the with that you have mesured,
these holes should be made on the side of that piece of metal about half
an inch from the hedge, and so it's not to bulky I would also cut the side
about half an inch from the holes. Now you can take this piece and
try to bolt it where your caliper usually bolts. Ideally it would be just long
enouf to past the holes from the caliper once it's on the rotor. If it's
too long cut it little bit try again. The tickness doesn't really madder
because the caliper should be farder outside of the car then it regulary
seat.

Now I would put the 350z rotor on the hub, put the pads in the calipers,
and put the caliper on the rotor. I would line up the caliper with the area
it usually suppose to go. Maybe have a friend help you and hold it in place.
There should be a little gap between the rotor and the inside of the caliper.
Ideally the pads should be on the end of the rotor, but I would try to leave
maybe 2-3 mm of the rotor a little bit farder inside of the caliper.

Now if your smart you would of picked a piece of metal that was perfectly
flat. If you did you should be able to mesure the distance between the
piece of metall and the back of the caliper ( the flat part that usually
bolted down). This is the offset. You can actually check your mesurement
by cutting a piece of wood the tickness that you mesured and test fit it
between the piece of metal and the caliper. if It's perfect, the rotor should
seat nicelly and the piece of wood should stay between the 2 without to
much pressure. (obiously, if it falls, it's not tick enouf, if the rotor doesn't
seat properly it's to tick.)

Now come the tricky part, mesuring the exact distance between the 2 holes
going on the hub and the 2 holes for the caliper. Since you have a plate
and you abiously know the size of the bolt your going to use. Now you
have to drill 2 line in the piece of metal the size of the bolts you need.
You have to be extremelly carefull that the lines are parallel, and that
each line points toward the holes on the others side of the metal pieces.
Here like this:

_________________________________________________
|__________________............................... ................|
__________________|............................... .........O.....|
|__________________............................... ................|
__________________|............................... .........O.....|
|________________________________________________|

Obiously it's a very rought drawing, but I hope you get the picture.
And ignore the dots, it's because site doesn't reconise empty space.

Now you can actually drill 2 holes in the piece of wood, put it between the
metal piece and the caliper. Simply take the proper bolts and bolts your
caliper down, when the bolts are tight, take a marker and circle the bolts
head on the metal piece now to determine the distance between the
caliper and the hub. you can either mesure the distance between the
bolts has they sit, or take the metal piece of and calculate from the center
on the circle and holes.

Now you should have all the dimension, with, lenght, and offset. But
because of the tickness of the adapter plate your going to have to
take longer stud to reach your caliper unless they shave some material
off the adapter's back. Still just got to mesure and get the proper length.

There you go a step by step for how to design a caliper adapter.
If you fell you have a better methode, please free to explane.

Now is this better... and it's not rocket science either, I just wrote all of
this while watching family guy lol.

Now that I wrote this, it's makes me want to go have a look at what brakes
I should put on mine.

J-F

[Dragon Humper]

^ agree, 300zx is the same as R32 GTS-t caliper/rotors, GTR has different diameter rotors and caliper. This is why it won't fit.

I don't think so, front for sure, rear, I have 300zx rotors on the rear of my car right now. Fits just fine.

Willwood, SBC, Brembo, you name them, they all issue you some MACHINED washers with their kits to let you fine tune the positioning of a fixed calliper. I do believe that you can get the washers from anyone that deals with aftermarket brake manufacturers. You must use a hardened-machined washer, the stamped ones are not parallel enough or precise in thickness enough.

If the dia. of the front rotor isn't too large for the caliper and all there needs to be is a little spacing outboard of the caliper then the washers will work just fine. If you have to machine only 5mm off the bracket to move it inboard that should be OK. I wouldn't go much more than that. You could even do 2.5mm off the surface that mates to the knuckle and then 2.5mm off the surface that mates to the caliper to keep the thickness even and at maximum for strength. If it is the bracket I am thinking of though you can just shave 5mm off the stands that hold the caliper, they are nice and thick.

The money you paid for the kit more than out balances the BS to put it on. Bolt on stuff is for HD mechanics, RE/RE is all they know (Ooooooh I'm going to hear about this.....teeheehee).

Jon.

[ChrisCheezer]

Sheesh

I didn't read your post really good and thought your where talking about the
space between the caliper and the wheel. Sssooorrrrrrrrryyy.

It's not really a big problem, just take a couple of mesurement, how the hell
do you think the first adapter braket for that kit was made. If you already
had that braket in your possetion and noticed it was off, just take
mesurement of the difference, and bring those mesurement to a shop so
that someone can make one for you if you can't make it your self.

Really, I can't see what the big fuss is about, your onely talking about a
small piece of metal here. For a good metal shop it should be a breeze
to make with nothing more than a couple mesurement.

If you can't draw, it doesn't really madder, it's the number that madders.
the drawing can help a great deal to help visualise it.


So even if I don't really wan't to help you right now, because it seams
you don't really have a clue what your doing, here is what I would start
with.

Take the dimension between the two bolts on the braket where the caliper
is usually bolted. Take the mesurement of the bolt thats going to go
throught thoses holes.

Take a scrap piece of metal drill 2 holes the with that you have mesured,
these holes should be made on the side of that piece of metal about half
an inch from the hedge, and so it's not to bulky I would also cut the side
about half an inch from the holes. Now you can take this piece and
try to bolt it where your caliper usually bolts. Ideally it would be just long
enouf to past the holes from the caliper once it's on the rotor. If it's
too long cut it little bit try again. The tickness doesn't really madder
because the caliper should be farder outside of the car then it regulary
seat.

Now I would put the 350z rotor on the hub, put the pads in the calipers,
and put the caliper on the rotor. I would line up the caliper with the area
it usually suppose to go. Maybe have a friend help you and hold it in place.
There should be a little gap between the rotor and the inside of the caliper.
Ideally the pads should be on the end of the rotor, but I would try to leave
maybe 2-3 mm of the rotor a little bit farder inside of the caliper.

Now if your smart you would of picked a piece of metal that was perfectly
flat. If you did you should be able to mesure the distance between the
piece of metall and the back of the caliper ( the flat part that usually
bolted down). This is the offset. You can actually check your mesurement
by cutting a piece of wood the tickness that you mesured and test fit it
between the piece of metal and the caliper. if It's perfect, the rotor should
seat nicelly and the piece of wood should stay between the 2 without to
much pressure. (obiously, if it falls, it's not tick enouf, if the rotor doesn't
seat properly it's to tick.)

Now come the tricky part, mesuring the exact distance between the 2 holes
going on the hub and the 2 holes for the caliper. Since you have a plate
and you abiously know the size of the bolt your going to use. Now you
have to drill 2 line in the piece of metal the size of the bolts you need.
You have to be extremelly carefull that the lines are parallel, and that
each line points toward the holes on the others side of the metal pieces.
Here like this:

_________________________________________________
|__________________............................... ................|
__________________|............................... .........O.....|
|__________________............................... ................|
__________________|............................... .........O.....|
|________________________________________________|

Obiously it's a very rought drawing, but I hope you get the picture.
And ignore the dots, it's because site doesn't reconise empty space.

Now you can actually drill 2 holes in the piece of wood, put it between the
metal piece and the caliper. Simply take the proper bolts and bolts your
caliper down, when the bolts are tight, take a marker and circle the bolts
head on the metal piece now to determine the distance between the
caliper and the hub. you can either mesure the distance between the
bolts has they sit, or take the metal piece of and calculate from the center
on the circle and holes.

Now you should have all the dimension, with, lenght, and offset. But
because of the tickness of the adapter plate your going to have to
take longer stud to reach your caliper unless they shave some material
off the adapter's back. Still just got to mesure and get the proper length.

There you go a step by step for how to design a caliper adapter.
If you fell you have a better methode, please free to explane.

Now is this better... and it's not rocket science either, I just wrote all of
this while watching family guy lol.

Now that I wrote this, it's makes me want to go have a look at what brakes
I should put on mine.

J-F

wow, great write up,
this set-up will not work, unless the factory mounts in the knuckle are extended, and the holes are re-drilled 9.2mm from the factory mount and the offset is increased by 6mm on the aftermarket adapter even after that a R33 GTR rotor will have to be used because z33 rotor will not work, requires more negative offset. ( didn't bother to measure)

[C-unit]

I don't think so, front for sure, rear, I have 300zx rotors on the rear of my car right now. Fits just fine.

I am just talking about the front. Rears are the same among all R32/Z32.

[frankiman]

read this
http://forums.gtrcanada.com/showthre...715#post457715

and this
http://forums.gtrcanada.com/showthre...001#post458001

[ChrisCheezer]

Thank you for the education.

[LuckyGTR]

GUYZ I HAVE A QUESTION

LOCAL SHOP HAVE A SET OF R33 COMPLETE BREMBO BRAKE
ROTOR AND PAD ARE LIKE NEW

I GET EVERYTHING TO PUT ON A GTR 32 HOW MUCH THESE BRAKE WORTH?

[frankiman]

1500+ for a full front/back kit

[LuckyGTR]

OMG so if i can get it 4 700+ my old gtr brake iam doing a good deal?

[frankiman]

IF they take your old brakes back, they wont give you more than 400$ for sure

i asked 2 shops for a full kit
jdm advance and nagoya auto parts, both were asking about 1600

[LuckyGTR]

alright iam going tommorow morning first thing iam doing

[NismoS-tune]

Remember, every price has a reason. If they're selling those that cheap, I'm sure they konw what they are and are worth so check them out lol. I wouldn't be surprised if they needed a rebuild or the guy has no clue what he's selling.