gtr limp mode - now not starting... help :/

[thieves]

Here is the story, I'm state side and its hard to find anyone knowing anything about these cars. Anyway, I had just gotten this car off the truck drove it for a night.. the car seemed to be fine, maybe a little lag in boost..

on the way home i was in boost im pretty sure or might of just stepped off the pedal, i'm pretty sure i heard a low muffled "pop" sound (not backfire, i dont think), the car went into limp mode right away.. shut off on the high way i started it up couldnt go over 2500rpm or so, it was dumping black smoke from the exhaust so it seemed to have been dumping fuel, I had to drive the car up my buildings garage and park it, After i parked it, it would start and idle fine for a few split seconds then go back into limp mode and more black smoke.. after my self and a few others started it a few times the problem got worse.

Now the car does not even start.. its possible its just flooded, a friend is saying spark plugs but im pretty sure those were just replace.. i know before I got the car timing belt / water pump / gas pump / gas filter / CAS were replaced. People have told me to check for lose hoses, cufflings, vaccume lines etc.. my friends and i did what we could and went over all of what we could see and did not see any lose piping or lines..

i have a video of what the car sounds like ..http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zRLzirHcXX8

Would really appreciate any tips or direction here as i JUST got the car and now it does not run.. The car is 95 r33 GTR V-spec, light mods.. duel apexi intake, hks exhaust.. nothing serious.

[archaeic_bloke]

theres no "cufflings" on a skyline...lol

but it sounds to me like had/have a boost leak on the highway... did you check ALL the intercooler piping? theres a lot of pipe joints u need to check....

but i think u may want to do a compression test... if u had a boost leak on the high way and then drove around pedal to the floor trying to get it to get back into boost, the ECU would've been dumping fuel into the engine because the boost leak, all that fuel may have done some damage now..

u mentioned black smoke, black is typical of excessive fuel.

[thieves]

Ah, i wasnt running it after it stopped, not pedal to the floor at least.. When it ****** up i was on the highway but literally about to get off on my exit.. what ever happened, happened. Then i rolled off the high way to a side street.. waited on a friend, and i live literally a block away from my exit on the high way and drove it at low rpm in limp mode up my apartment garage blowing smoke from exhaust.. tried starting a few times to listen to it idle, which it started and idled roughly at first but now is not starting. Thanks archaeic_bloke, No i cant say we have checked it ALL. honestly just what we could see and reach from the top of the engine, and what we could see without jacking the car up. Tomorrow durring the day we hope to be able to check under and what we couldnt see.. This blows as now my car is in my apartment garage located on the 12th floor :> cant even tow it down now.

[evilgtr]

This exact same thing happened to ma last year ! All it was was the plug on the ignition coil - on the top and back of the valve cover ( looks like a small car amplifier ) had came lose so shut down, I pulled both plugs off and checked the small ground wire and plugged them back in. Boda bing Boda boom ran like new ! Try that !

[evilgtr]

What color smoke was it blowing ? Blue = bad. White = make a bank appointment. Black = check entire ignition system your pumping out raw fuel

[thieves]

Black so yeah fuel crap / ignition / electrical for sure we are thinking.. Still didnt rule out IC piping since we cant see under it. Evilgtr, We took the coil cover off and disconnected that completely and reconnected it. examined coils friend said it got fire and it was getting fuel.. just not starting now, after it would start but idle / bog down. Being flooded would probably be the cause of that (black smoke, lots of fuel etc..) will try a push/rolling start tomorrow to see if we can get it in idle again.

Also just disconnected the battery to reset ECU stuff.. ordering a pizza and going back down in a bit :>

[thieves]

Just went down and did an ecu error code reading, read 55 which is nothing wrong.. :/ but i did reset everything by unplugging the battery.. and the car doesnt start.. so dunno if its possible its just reading default setting stuff.. probably should of done that in reverse order. I'm guessing would have to get it started some how and see if it goes into safe/limp mode again then try and read the ecu error codes again..

[derbeck]

Hey bro I would really check that ic piping it doesn't read on ecu just pull plastic cover under motor or pull bumper off where are you located

[thieves]

We checked from the top like we said, will remove the bumper and stuff in a bit. I'm in miami, fl.. lol :>

[archaeic_bloke]

if you were in canada im sure thered be a bunch of us who'd be down to come and help! but miami FL is a touch far! lol

yea shoulda done it in reverse order, oh well.
its getting fuel, and its getting spark. only thing it can be is a boost leak, or timing problem... if the CAS has moved or come loose that could be causing it not to start. otherwise i would say u don't need to do a push start, ur starter should be working fine....

maybe if u can post some more pics of the engine bay we might be able to spot anything out of the ordinary.

the original problem sounded like a intercooler pipe blowing off... but the fact she won't start now is a whole different story.

so take some pics if u can post them it MAY help if someone spots something out of place.

[thieves]

OK guys, just like everyone said "Check IC piping" well... guess what? when we took the wheel off, and the shield in front of the wheel... IC piping was off as expected.. we changed spark plugs also as the other ones were ******* black.. but these suck im pretty sure.. "champion" they were like 1.99 a piece and supposedly NGK equiv.. ANYWAY car was running ok, but didnt to be pulling.. AT ALL.. i drive it around to a friends house he looks at it says "yeah this thing is slower than my civic right now" it starts to over heat... we put coolant in it.. i start my drive home.. it starts backfiring really bad in first gear 2nd etc etc.. eventually the car just shut off and it was over heated bad, the turbos were glowing red, we let it sit and cool down and now its not starting.. So now back to square one.. we fixed the IC piping, it ran some, now its over heating not pulling at all, and completely dead once again.. towing it somewhere now.. any ideas on the new problems guys lol?

BTW we also did compression checks.. 150 all around.

[archaeic_bloke]

well im glad you found the IC pipe problem...

but OMG!!!!!... the turbos were glowing hot and red?!! dude... ur engine is done. i'm sorry but generating that kind of heat, while not even being able to build boost means you were running SUPER lean.... and by pushing it trying to force it faster, you've done damage.

i hope for your sake i'm totally wrong and just over-reacting.. but dude, I'm fairly sure of this.

start now with a compression test. i'm fairly sure you're gonna see some bad numbers.
a compression tester can be had from any car parts store for like $40, u know how to do it right?
keep us posted dude.

[BenC]

A little red isn't abnormal for turbos depending on driving conditions. Check your timing, check for a plugged cat, I hate to scream maf but check that too. Maybe you'll find an exhaust wheel in your muffler

Edit: check your plugs again now that your piping is fixed. The color could give you some kind of indication of whats going on in there

[thieves]

Could someone messing with the CAS do this? One friend tightened/loosened/maybe moved the CAS.. but i figured since its a sense just moving it wouldnt mess something up like this.. if its that im going to kill someone.. im guessing yes.. :> I hope the engine is ok after having that heat from the turbo.

[Skym]

In limp mode you wouldn't be able to do any diagnostics and usually happens when there's an internal problem with ECU, etc.

Incorrect CAS timing can cause knock. This makes ECU switch to knock maps that pulls ignition timing, dumps alot of fuel into engine, which can heat up exhaust. I guess similar to antilag on rally car, where it helps to spool turbo. If ECU pulls enough ignition timing, can make engine stop accelerating (common on stock RB25DET ECU knocks maps, where ignition timing can reach 0 degrees).

CAS sets the base ignition timing at BTDC (I think it's 15 degrees BTDC at 950rpm for RB26). Then ECU adds ignition timing on ignition map to BTDC timing, so 1st piston is past TDC (known as ATDC) when spark plug fires. Then ECU fires other cylinders in sequence after 1st cylinder fires. Adjusting CAS forward or backwards can reset where sparkplug fires, so could fire near TDC or way after TDC.

Also CAS affects injector timing, as if you pull CAS off, turn ignition to 3 (just before you turn engine on) and play with CAS shaft, can hear injectors click (I wouldn't do this without timing gun to reset CAS timing and have to reset ECU afterwards to clear CAS error code, as playing with CAS shaft can make CAS error code popup on ECU). Also be aware there's a key on front of exhaust cam that matches up with key inside shaft of CAS if you do decide to try this.