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Hi, yes need to qickly figure out what the specs and sequences are on main studs (OEM) and the ARP headstuds, thanks
Edit: also need the positions of the rings on the pistons!
The head studs are a 3 step process. What hg are you using?
Sequence goes inside out. So..
9 5 1 3 7
10 6 2 4 8 etc..
do not follow the FSM for torque. Always follow the stud manufacturers sequence and torque #'s since its not the head that's being altered, its the bolts. ARP recommends 3 sequences of equal torque, plateauing at 80 ft/lbs. You can start, centre out, by tightening them hand tight, then start centre out again at 30 ft/lbs, then again at 60 ft/lbs then finally 80 ft/lbs. There is a lot of controversy as to what the final torque number should be and a lot of people say to go +5 to +10 on the final torque. I myself went to 85, but i dont believe there are any foreseeable issues with whichever you choose.
There is NO reason to back off the bolts at any stage either. The reason the FSM is adamant on this is because the oem head stud bolts are stretch bolts. The preliminary torque to 90 ft lbs (for stock bolts) stretches the bolts to their final length after which you need to reseat them by once again torquing them (95 now i think) slightly past their limit. This is why they SHOULD NOT be reused.
ARP bolts do not stretch, and it's not necessary to perform any seating measures with these bolts.
Use the proper lube, and also don't tighten the stud, only put it in finger tight! Make sure your threads are clean as well...
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