AWD not working

[DarkCaporaL]

Do you let it prime before you start it? You usually have to let the key in the ON position for about 10 seconds before you start it up.

[bakerman1978]

Do you let it prime before you start it? You usually have to let the key in the ON position for about 10 seconds before you start it up.

usually i wait around 3-5 seconds I'll try the 10 seconds thanks

[Dragon Humper]

Sometimes I have to move a little bit to keep my ATESSA to stay engaged. Every once in a while if I come to a stop it will turn off on it's own. All I have to do is manually turn it off (with my AWD switch) and turn it back on again then move about 2 feet. If I stay still it will just disengage again.

When it does this there are no codes, go figure. Works fine otherwise.



Jon.

[MarusGTR]

Sometimes I have to move a little bit to keep my ATESSA to stay engaged. Every once in a while if I come to a stop it will turn off on it's own. All I have to do is manually turn it off (with my AWD switch) and turn it back on again then move about 2 feet. If I stay still it will just disengage again.

When it does this there are no codes, go figure. Works fine otherwise.

Do you hear or feel the AWD drivetrain disengage? I'm still wondering if the jolt I felt was ETS related.

[bakerman1978]

Do you let it prime before you start it? You usually have to let the key in the ON position for about 10 seconds before you start it up.

when I wait 10 seconds it works thanks again

[MarusGTR]

Man I really wonder if it's a can of worms... I'll try to troubleshoot it when I get some time off but I have no clue what could of gone wrong. What should I check for in a code 11 other than the G sensor in the "circuit no1" (what is it for that matter?).

Edit: Might as well try to flush the system... saw a few random codes were fixed with a fluid flush. Others had to change their ETS controller (yikes). Anything I should look out for? I trust RP MAX ATF would do?

[Dragon Humper]

Do you hear or feel the AWD drivetrain disengage? I'm still wondering if the jolt I felt was ETS related.

I don't feel anything. I am standing still whenever it happens. The only reason I know is that the idiot light comes on, and even then if I don't notice it right away I have no idea that it has disengaged (unless ofcourse I honk on it and the rear tires just blow right off instead of the AWD thrust re-arranging my guts).

It's really odd, everything seems to be fine and checks out, it just does it from time to time.


Jon.

[Terrh]

clean your ABS sensors. Also, check your TPS calibration, or see if it still does it with your foot on the throttle.

[MarusGTR]

clean your ABS sensors. Also, check your TPS calibration, or see if it still does it with your foot on the throttle.

This is could be the issue since I was constantly spaying grease and blasting compressed air. What should I clean them with? A solvant?

Edit: Now I'm subbed, I won't miss replies.

[MarusGTR]

Got another look at the ETS. Followed code 11 diagnostic procedure (btw I also have code 13, which is the same steps).

Don't know if my multimeter is wonked. I had no troubles reading my coils but when I tried to read the ETS (should be 30-50kohm) it couldn't. I then tried getting the voltage with ignition on, and that's where the wierd stuff happens:

Connectors 24 and 25: 12V (guess short from the battery) should be 2.5V
Connectors 29 and 6: 0V, should be 2.5V

Next step would be to check G sensor resistance, but I'm not sure if my multi is worth shite. It could read a 1.5V batt no problem, but resistance wise I have no clue.

[MarusGTR]

Took the G sensor apart and my pin #2 shows 6V, which is the bottom right gyro circuit. The potentiometer can only get me down to 3.30V. I'll try to get an electrician to get a new wider pot in that could get me down to 2.5V. Problem is that maybe the gyro is just plain FUBAR and throwing off the scale values... which I think is the underlying issue. Getting a wider pot will not get the sensitivity back, so the ETS could get negatively affected (lag or shortened sensitivity range)

All the resistors and circuitry shows consistent resistance values. The caps (which I had thought had crapped) are actually in "high stardard" (electrician's quote) grade.

To those who are reading this and that I was asking about buying a G sensor, you'll probably get some business from me, but I can't afford much.

[MarusGTR]

Final update, it's the G sensor that caused the issues.

I've plugged in one that shipped in yesterday and no codes. Since the shipping tripped the mercury indicator and the fact that the AWD seems to lag quite a bit makes me think the gyros were affected, but hey, at least I have ABS and no lights on the dash.

Do you guys want me to do a DIY thread for the G sensor?

[NeptuneGTR]

Good to see you got it worked out. must have been kinda hard though to locate a g sensor no??

[collector240sx]

Good to hear it worked.

Does the torque gauge work with this sensor, or does it do the same thing that mine was doing ?

[MarusGTR]

Yours didn't even make it move, this one makes it move maybe 1/4-1/2 under WOT but if I hit a bump or brake after WOT it maxes out lol. I also feel the front end pull a little now.

Good to see you got it worked out. must have been kinda hard though to locate a g sensor no??

Surprisingly when I had given up a few offers opened up. The hard part is finding a properly working G sensor... and for cheap. A mint one costs an arm.