Break in tune -Runs rough, Low power, No torque, Low vacuum

[Black BNR32]

did you find out why your vacuum was low?

[BenC]

I'm not sure what it was before I degreed the cam to be honest The tuner told me it was low. Now it's 35-40 KPa which to my understanding is still low?

With my battery voltage being 12.8V all my injectors are getting 12.3V cyl 5 is 12.5v. Anyone see anything wrong with this?

[nismo-152]

What lift and duration are you running? Overlap can cause low vac at idle. How did you figure out the cam open and shut point for degree?

[Black BNR32]

for reference, i see ~ 9inHg (30kpa) at idle with 280/10.8 cams at 1600ft elevation here in SK

[hozer]

still can't help but think this is a fueling issue. If you have other injectors you can try, try them. Whats your fuel pressure at?

[xcye]

Your vacuum is bang on. I get the same vacuum (35 to 40kpa) with the Tomei Poncams in Calgary. So, there is no worry about your vacuum level.

I'm not sure what it was before I degreed the cam to be honest The tuner told me it was low. Now it's 35-40 KPa which to my understanding is still low?

With my battery voltage being 12.8V all my injectors are getting 12.3V cyl 5 is 12.5v. Anyone see anything wrong with this?

[caliber676]

If you have only 3 rich cylinders and your PCM is not capable of adjusting fuel trim for a specified cylinder then your problem lies in the injectors or its electrical circuits (assuming your intake system is sound which im sure it is). I always stress this but its a shame labscopes aren't cheaper, getting a waveform pattern of your voltage and amperage for your injector cycle would prove helpful. I haven't looked at the wiring for the R32 in a while but assuming the ground is in the PCM then you would be looking for that as well as the quick on/off cycle to collapse the coil amperage saturation.

I would definitely look further into your tune related to your vacuum. Maybe the parameters in your tune are based on stock idle and vacuum settings while your vacuum in reality is lower due to your overlapping cams. My thinking behind this is less vacuum = less air going into the cylinder = richer mixture. It wouldn't explain a couple of your cylinders being richer but may shed some light as to the rough running you are having. You should note though that an engine running bigger cams, more overlap will not be as smoothly operating as a manufacturers stock engine, although im sure you have factored that in.

[christdeyoung]

I happen to be having the exact same problem (minus the poor running). I was just at the tuners yesterday and we couldn't finish because the stock fuel pump wouldn't push more than 310whp, so that wouldn't even take me up to revlimiter on low boost. We were even getting boost creep up to 15 psi with 10 psi springs in two atmospheric dump 38mm Tials on a GT4088.
Anyways, I also have fair sized cams (270/10.8mm Procams with cam gears at 0 degrees) and I get very little vacuum...about 8 inches of mercury at idle, and maybe 12 on light decel.
My tuner told me to play with them a bit to try and find a spot where they make better vacuum as he says that's often where they'll make the most power. I find that odd, but I'll give it a try. First I'll check that the cams are indeed perfectly in time...use a timing light, and set your ignition timing to TDC. Every second flash, the cams should line up to their marks.

[BenC]

I used this thread to degree em

http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-degree-your-rbxx-aftermarket-cams-t425466.html

Fuel pressure is 43ish at idle

My ecu does have individual cyl trim I believe but is not enabled and It shouldn't really be needed

These are fairly mild cams and they shouldn't be idling as bad as they are. I tried playing with the fuel trim and ign timing to try and smooth out the idle and it just doesn't do anything
I'm gonna check my valve clearances again maybe some cylinders are just getting more air rather than fuel

[jrhdohc]

try ALL factory Haltech idle settings. Idle might be setting not AFR or vacuum. One setting can throw the idle out of whack.

try 105 degree intake and 110 exhaust for more torque.

adding fuel can help spool the turbos. once you're past peak torque you can lean it out. difference between ~11.5 and 12.0 on my engine is ~800rpm more lag. some engines like it richer. ~11.0 to spool.

Nismo slave is not for twin coppermix. try stock nissan. I'm worried you might have problems with that set up.

good luck. I like the cam white cam covers.

[BenC]

It doesn't even start with the VE base tune Haltech provides

I was also gonna mention it doesn't get hotter than 40deg Celsius. These thermostats open at 75 I believe. Probably an unrelated issue though. I've replaced the thermostat and still no heat

[jrhdohc]

what i mean is open your calibration. save as, "idle test". modify your renamed calibration with haltech base cal idle settings. 900rpm on rpm target is probably too low. 950 or 1000 might work better with your set up. (1000rpm is what i'm running 272IN 264EX with over 10mm lift). But the other setting are pretty good from Haltech and should give you a good idle. you could email me your cal. jrhskylinedohc@hotmail.com and i'll look it over.

there are many reason it might not start on base cal. Could be the "main setup" window setting. Or the fuel "prime pulse time" could be flooding your engine. Or "Inj flow rate".

when you set the ignition timing. did you "setup" -> "main setup" -> "basic" -> ignition "lock timing"? then set ignition timing?

where are you reading 40 degrees, gauge or ecu? does the engine feel 40? just worried you might be getting a false reading.

sorry for all the questions.

[BenC]

I may have degreed the cams to the wrong specs lol. When I googled the centerline I got 120 for the intake via this site http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/g...2-p-36851.html

However I randomly came across my crumpled up cam sheet today and it states 110deg for the intake... I'm guessing that 120 is a typo on that website.. FML Gonna degree em again and go from there

As for the heating up it reads 40 deg on my defi and also reads low on the oem gauge. I'm gonna try jacking up the front and bleeding the system again

[BenC]

Ok I ran it for a bit and the plugs are still coming out no different than before. I managed to grab a pic of "Wingnut's" head when he tore his down and his cylinders are mimicking the pattern of my plugs. 1,2 clean. 3,4 rich and 5,6 in the middle. I purchased the chassis, engine harness, the head, and turbos off of "Wingnut" So i'm thinking the problem has to be in the wiring no?? any suggestions?

[jrhdohc]

maybe check the resistor pack and the continuity of the harness.

low compression could have caused his engine run rich in those cylinders... making it just a coincidence.

110 does sound better than 120... maybe try 105. you could compare data logs. see which makes boost earlier. maybe play with 110 on exhaust too.