Break in tune -Runs rough, Low power, No torque, Low vacuum

[BenC]

Got my car to the dyno finally for a break-in tune. Made 298 @14PSI

Symptoms:
It's extremely sluggish under 4000RPM
Should be making more power at that boost level
Runs rough in general throughout the rpm range
Low vacuum

AFRS were good
Ign timing was good
Toma in Calgary is a fairly experienced tuner so I trust him

Anyone know what the problem could be? I'm thinking the cam's are out a couple degrees. Also gonna throw in some new coils and plugs cause it was missing a bit as well. I'm just waiting for the rain to stop before I dig into it. I'll see If I can post up the dyno graph too

Specs are here: http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gt-r-pro...ue-waffle.html

[hozer]

Injector duty cycle is one of my guesses... that little power with your huge ass injectors is going to cause issues. My very rough calcs say those probably run less than 50% even at WOT. May not be the problem, but I bet that is contributing enormously to rough idle issues.

Cam's are probably out as well like you said

[derbeck]

What turbos are you running and was it checked for vacuum leaks

[BenC]

From what I've read the ID's are notorious for running extremely well at idle. Even the 2000s. There's a few guys on here running the 1000s too without any problems. I'll definitely keep them in mind though

They're the same nismo lemans turbos Wingnut was running way back. Can't find any leaks

[Ricky Ricer]

The IDs run way better than any injector on the market. My friend is running them in his GC8 with NO tuning and his car is running great he claims. I believe it as my car started right up and ran great when pulling it on the trailer before towing it to the tuner. I most definitely could have driven it.

[Super_Dude]

ID put a set of ID2000's in a stock 91 honda civic and after tuning it drove and idled better than stock. ID's are the best you can get, and in no way should be impacting the power much. Of course the shorter pulse width from the large injector will hurt power slightly but nothing this serious.

Check out your whole ignition system starting with plugs and wires. If you have a freind with a GTR swap out his ignitor, harness, coils. Do it one at time, testing each time. That would be a good start.

[BenC]

I think my cams are definitely out

Stock
int 113 centerline
ex 125 centerline

greddys
int 120 centerline
exh 114 centerline

Also with the head and block being decked could throw them off a bit more. The gears are just zeroed out right now

[GTR-Dad]

+1 for cams.

Degreeing cams should part of every engine assembly. I'd also check for boost leaks.

Dan

[BenC]

I degreed the cams today. Had to advance the intake 5* and advance the exhaust .5*

It still runs about the same if I run 20* ignition. But If I bump the timing to 50* it runs way smoother so I don't know if I need to get it tuned again or what? The cat overheat light comes on so i'm thinking the tune is out on my Haltech now

[BenC]

I've got even compression, My 3,4,5 cyl look to be running way too rich. 1,2 plugs were really clean. #6 could use a bit less fuel as well. Anyone know why they would be so different between cylinders?

[BenC]

Bump it up! I don't really know where to go from here...

[xcye]

Did you time it via the black wire loop at the back or on a spark wire. If the wire loop is where you timed your ignition, then you may have timed the charging timing. Most timing guns do not allow you to time the discharging timing, when the spark actually occurred at. If not sure, then always use a spark wire to bridge the coil to the spark plug and time it around the spark wire. Or use a better timing gun to make sure the your are timing the discharge time. A capable timing gun will show different readings if you hook in the wire loop in different electronic flow directions. The lower reading is the discharge timing (spark timing), while the higher one is the charge timing (the timing that charging the coil starts at).

I degreed the cams today. Had to advance the intake 5* and advance the exhaust .5*

It still runs about the same if I run 20* ignition. But If I bump the timing to 50* it runs way smoother so I don't know if I need to get it tuned again or what? The cat overheat light comes on so i'm thinking the tune is out on my Haltech now

[jdms13rhd]

Ive had this happen to me^^^

I never use that loop anymore. Always go right on No.1 for accurate readings. Call me if you want and we can pick each others brain. haha

[BenC]

whoops double post

[BenC]

Ok ive timed it multiple times and I've swapped the 3 rich cylinders injectors for the other 3 and it's still the same 3 plugs coming out black. I can't help but think it's a ecu or wiring issue. The tuner said individual cyl tuning was disabled