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Mine ticks around 80-90 (under the second tick) (70->150°C, 20°C per tick) during spirited driving which is okay for my 5w30. Grandma driving is around 80. Never gone half way gauge which would indicate a need for thicker oil (past 100°C).
Last edited by MarusGTR; 07-18-2011, 03:44 PM.
Reason: Corrections
Sorry it's 5w30 Mobil 1 that I'm using, brainfart.
Which brand are you running? When was your last oil change? Anyway if you're running full synthetic you're probably fine. The only problem with running half gauge is that the bearing oiling gets thinner but full synth shouldn't break up.
I'm running stock boost btw, less combustion = less latent heat.
I wouldn't worry, I think 100°C with full synth 30 weight is okay, but you should definitely get thicker stuff if you plan on running her harder (e.g. track). Also the bearing wear should be minimal if you're not at high RPM, where with 30 weight you could shear off the oil from the journals.
The TSM specifies 7.5w30 as service oil, so 5w30 proper for everyday use.
Edit: What's your engine temp on the stock gauge btw?
engine temp is just under 1/2 after a run. I do have a lttle bubbling in the small tube infront of the cams. still air in the system, my coolant temp is staying just below half. i just put in 15w50 to try the oil temp, then if ok, change it with 10w30??? Thoughts
1990 Skyline GTS --- SOLD 1992 Skyline GTR Lawn Ornament
2004 Toyota Matrix XRS --Grocery getter
1998 Mazda B2500 -- for sale
2000 Honda Accord- Fully loaded winter beater
engine temp is just under 1/2 after a run. I do have a lttle bubbling in the small tube infront of the cams. still air in the system, my coolant temp is staying just below half. i just put in 15w50 to try the oil temp, then if ok, change it with 10w30??? Thoughts
If you dont always run WOT it should be okay with 30 weight. Try the 50 if you want but it could have adverse effects in low heat/RPM use. BTW, isn't 15w is a little high for the stock turbo bearing housing? And I assume you meant going back to 5w30 after your tests?
still running about 100/110 oil temp? coolant bubbling in the lines and into the resevour pretty bad, Coolant temp consistantly good? I have used rad flush and water to clean system. still some rust color in the coolant but seems to be flowing. Not loosing coolant and can not find any leaks??
1990 Skyline GTS --- SOLD 1992 Skyline GTR Lawn Ornament
2004 Toyota Matrix XRS --Grocery getter
1998 Mazda B2500 -- for sale
2000 Honda Accord- Fully loaded winter beater
1. failed HG - you would get back pressure in your coolant system and see bubbles in the rad when you open up the rad cap. You would also likely see oil floating on top of your coolant and/or milky oil.
2. If your water temps are normal (between 70-80C, thermostat opens at 73) there is a leak in the system somewhere depressurizing it when you shut off the car which then causes your coolant to boil = air in the system. When you bleed it will fix the boiling for a while but it will eventually come back because of the leak. The easiest and most overlooked part is the rad cap. If it's old and weak and cannot old the pressure it can cause this issue.
When you bleed make sure to also bleed via the bleed screw on top of the plenum close to the FPR.
mine has 10w40 ish mobil1...mix of two 5w30 and two 15w50 bottles....in the city 85'c....once i hit the highway gauge sits at 90'c then lowers again once im in the city at 80-85'c
[QUOTE=Marus92;475717]If you dont always run WOT it should be okay with 30 weight. Try the 50 if you want but it could have adverse effects in low heat/RPM use. BTW, isn't 15w is a little high for the stock turbo bearing housing? And I assume you meant going back to 5w30 after your tests?
I ran mobil 1 15w50 for 6 years until this season cause i got a deal on royal purple 10w40(i think) lol
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