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HELPASAP!! RB26DETT Engine Ticking Noise.

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  • HELPASAP!! RB26DETT Engine Ticking Noise.

    I want to buy this skyline and join this community so bad, but the only thing that's stopping me is this ticking noise. My pops who was a mechanic for over 40 years says there is something wrong with the valves. Could I get some experienced RB26 owners here to give me some information please?



    Click " GT-R Engine Bay Revving "

    I know the file is large but that's because it has potentially very accurate analytical data. If I could please get some information ASAP. I would love to own one and join this community and start pampering a GT-R. PLEASE only experienced knowledge I need as much accurate information as possible, this will determine whether I buy this thing or not!!

    Thank you for viewing.
    BNR32

  • #2
    Sounds like a minor valve clearance issue.
    The RB26 uses a shim under bucket arrangment to set valve clearnace and this one sounds like it could use reshimming. It's probably run fine for quite a while, but fixing it right would / could involve:
    - gauge valve clearance (record values and check against specs)
    - remove cam shafts,
    - obtain correct shims (ask around to see how easy these are to find - they're not)
    - ideally, change valve guides and seals while you've got it this far apart as they may be excessively worn as a result of the out of spec clearances (not sure if the head has to come off for this or not. Prby does, which is a big job. If you have an engine hoist, it's easier to pull the engine than to pull the head in the engine bay.)
    - refit shims, buckets, and cam shaft (make sure you follow torquing procedures)
    - gauge to see if you got it right (if not, go back to start and redo)
    - button everything back up.

    I ran an engine that sounded like that for several years and when it came out for an upgrade, the stuff mentioned above was replaced. Not cheap. Reality is that many RB26's will sound like that. Also true is that you want to be careful not to 'fall in love' with a particular car. There will always be another one you can buy.

    If you're looking for a winter project and the work sounds like something you'd enjoy, then it might be the car for you.

    All this said, your dad has a lot more experience than I do! Sounds like he'll be a good resource for help wrenching on whatever car you buy and trusting his sense of what's a problem is probably a good idea.

    Cheers,
    Dan
    sigpic
    The Beaumont Connection

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    • #3
      Thanks for the information. I wont argue with your knowledge on the subject but I seen a post saying injector ticking is typical on the rb26's. If you notice in video when the camera is near the valve cover it isn't as loud as when it is right on top of the injectors. Maybe a possibility. Realistically speaking here my pops isn't that young any more so he won't get under the hood. I'm getting this car for under 6 grand and its running 130. I have no means of doing engine work to it other than getting basic things changed such as water pumps timing belts but all that was already done. I was hoping to buy this drive it for a year and sell it and get my money back. Do you think the car can take boosting hard 2-3 times a day tops. Like I said I'm not planning to do any work to the car engine-wise. If you could give me your advice, what should I do. I'd hateee if the engine failed on me. Id be happy to be able to re-sell it running sayyy...150 kms on it for 5 grand. What would you do with you knowledge but in my situation?

      -P.S, The owner said the injectors needs O-Rings if that helps
      Last edited by 91GTRR32; 08-25-2011, 03:11 AM.
      BNR32

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      • #4
        I wouod suggest you not to buy a gtr.
        Gtr's are amazing machines, and i love mine to no end so far. Having said that, she has caused me many sleepless nights and lots of stressful days, and ive had it for only 1 month.

        Gtr's are not for the faint of heart or light pockets.
        Good luck in your findings and end result.

        If you must own a skyline for the experience, then buy a gtst or gts4 to experience the awd factor. I found my two gtst's were very stable no matter what abuse i threw at them.

        Sent from android using Tapatalk

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        • #5
          I'd bet that the sound is valve clearance, not injectors. They tick, but not like that.
          RPM's are what will hurt a worn top end, not boost. However, I wouldn't be worried about running it for a year sounding like that.
          Is 130 compression? Is it consistent across the all cylinders? If not, stay away unless you want a rebuild. 130 is barely above min spec if memory serves, but if you want to run a tired RB26 for a year - go for it. The worst that will happen is that you'll need to fix it or dump it and not get your money back.

          Dan
          sigpic
          The Beaumont Connection

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          • #6
            Originally posted by nimblestix View Post
            I wouod suggest you not to buy a gtr.
            Gtr's are amazing machines, and i love mine to no end so far. Having said that, she has caused me many sleepless nights and lots of stressful days, and ive had it for only 1 month.

            Gtr's are not for the faint of heart or light pockets.
            Good luck in your findings and end result.

            If you must own a skyline for the experience, then buy a gtst or gts4 to experience the awd factor. I found my two gtst's were very stable no matter what abuse i threw at them.

            Sent from android using Tapatalk
            What are the basic horsepower/torque ratings on the single turbo gtst's. And do they come with the ATTESA-ETS system? I'm also more concerned about not having a trusted mechanic in this small city. I have another car to drive on the side of getting this one and I have a pretty manageable income, it's just a matter of not having a trusted mechanic.

            Thanks for the reply.
            BNR32

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            • #7
              Originally posted by GTR-Dad View Post
              I'd bet that the sound is valve clearance, not injectors. They tick, but not like that.
              RPM's are what will hurt a worn top end, not boost. However, I wouldn't be worried about running it for a year sounding like that.
              Is 130 compression? Is it consistent across the all cylinders? If not, stay away unless you want a rebuild. 130 is barely above min spec if memory serves, but if you want to run a tired RB26 for a year - go for it. The worst that will happen is that you'll need to fix it or dump it and not get your money back.

              Dan
              Sorry, should have been more clear. 130 would be the km's on the cluster. I'm not sure if this helps at all but on a cold start RPM's stay consistently at 1,100 RPM as it gets warmer it makes it's way to 1000 and sits there. I have no idea what the compression ratings are. The owner said the car pulls hard.

              Thanks for the reply.
              BNR32

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              • #8
                Originally posted by 91GTRR32 View Post
                Sorry, should have been more clear. 130 would be the km's on the cluster. I'm not sure if this helps at all but on a cold start RPM's stay consistently at 1,100 RPM as it gets warmer it makes it's way to 1000 and sits there. I have no idea what the compression ratings are. The owner said the car pulls hard.

                Thanks for the reply.
                I'd do a compression test and a leakdown test before plunking down money. If you like the car, buy it, but budget to fix or dump it. It's a performance car that someone's been getting performance from for quite some time.
                sigpic
                The Beaumont Connection

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                • #9
                  Owner says when he had the timing on it was spot on. Any input??
                  Last edited by 91GTRR32; 08-25-2011, 09:56 AM.
                  BNR32

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                  • #10
                    If you do the majority of the donkey work yourself you can R&R an RB26 for around $3k - $4k depending on what it needs .

                    I would buy it and drive it until winter , then throw yourself in at the deepend and do the cam work yourself , you'll learn alot and all the info you'll need to do it is on these forums or somewhere else on the net.

                    It looks like a half decent car for the price , it has the stock boost solenoid so unless the previous owner put that back on before sale it probably hasn't been past 1 bar - thats a good thing.

                    I think it sounds like the injectors , hard to tell on a movie like this BUT the reason i say this is because of the cheapish recording device you are using to record with typically has an omnidirectional mic that over amplifies ambient sound reflections from the surrounding metal . If you used a portable recorder with say a shure sm56 mic id be able judge it alot better

                    The real reason is , as others have said , can you afford the maintenance and running costs of a GTR? I have been lucky with my R33 GTR so far , but i also know more than a few people have had what amounts to a constant monthly bill just to keep it running.

                    I remember when i was young, shopping for a car and the novelty of the car in front of me totally made all reason go out the window lol.

                    If you can get it up to Brantford i'd check it out for you , would the owner drive it here for you ?

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                    • #11
                      I live in windsor and I was supposed to be going down today taking the train to get the car. I even have dealer plates to drive it back. The car is in mississauga. Idk what to do. I want to buy it but what kinda maintenance are you talking about? I'm not going to rape the car, I will be racing a couple buddies just to quiet them a bit thinking they can drive. What should someone expect from owning an rb26 engine maintenance-wise.
                      Last edited by 91GTRR32; 08-25-2011, 10:59 AM.
                      BNR32

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                      • #12
                        its a 20 year old car , things break out of age , wiring looms are old , nuts and bolts get seized , lines and piping get old and split.

                        Lucky for you most eom parts can be had on here very cheaply used because so many people sell them off their cars these days .

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                        • #13
                          Do not buy it without a compression test. The noise is injectors. I spent month chasing that noise for a guy last summer. The sound gave me chills the moment the car started. Now it is NOT normal injector noise at all. If you hold your hand on the regulator with the car running you will feel it slamming shut over and over again. Then go to the back and check the voltage going to the fuel pump. It is likely 6-8 volts. Then ask the owner if he has had the battery die in the past little while Im certain he has. When you boost these cars and your not careful you will get a spike and damage the ECU. First thing that it kills is related to the fuel control. (I had 3 cars last year with the same issue) plus in a good ecu and the sound goes away and the voltage is corrected the the pump.

                          It sounds similar to the sound and problem that GTR Dad explained but it has that injector and regulator eating itself tone added in there and not the internal top end sound.
                          Get a diagnostic stethoscope remove the coil cover and take a listen at the base of the cam valley. Then place it on your fuel rail. You will hear the culprit.
                          You can't fix stupid.

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                          • #14
                            That tick pretty much sounds like every other RB26 I've heard ON CAMERA, microphones in cameras seem to amplify that sound.

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                            • #15
                              Just outta curiosity is there anyone on the forum in the GTA are who would fix the issue on this engine for me (obviously not for free).

                              [I appreciate all the replies]
                              BNR32

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