Oil Setup for '89 GT-R

[r0k0]

Ok so i've been reading the oil system stickies, and im getting a GT-R Friday 23rd

So to start how much CAD$ to get the Stock pump removed for a N1 pump or how much extra for the custom gear ?

Other question .

i've read that an Oil cooler is a must, even tho my car wont see 400hp, i'd do this just for the sake of the engine to last when i want to floor it

which oil cooler can i put or would just any oil cooler would fit and can i make the kit myself ? ( just like a bolt on part or lots of customization ? )

when do i get that reducer for extra oil in the head ?

[cobrAA]

no oil cooler is needed for street.

[bobbo]

stock oil pump is fine if the car isn't hitting the rev limiter and excessive revs all the time.

[Xeno-Vibe]

Tomei oil pump, Jun crank collar, Bing oil catch can and you're set.
Its also good but perhaps not necessary to replace your intake filters.

[amnash]

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gts-tech/45536-seized-oil-pump-pulley.html

[gtrjon]

Ok so i've been reading the oil system stickies, and im getting a GT-R Friday 23rd

So to start how much CAD$ to get the Stock pump removed for a N1 pump or how much extra for the custom gear ?

Other question .

i've read that an Oil cooler is a must, even tho my car wont see 400hp, i'd do this just for the sake of the engine to last when i want to floor it

which oil cooler can i put or would just any oil cooler would fit and can i make the kit myself ? ( just like a bolt on part or lots of customization ? )

when do i get that reducer for extra oil in the head ?

since youve gotten 3 incomplete answers I will answer your questions. basically if you want to replace your stock oil pump you will more than likely have to pull the motor. its possible to pull the sump without pulling the motor but more hassle then its worth. depending on the shop your looking at ~8-10 hours of labor for removal of motor installing new pump and reinstalling the motor. That is ~$1000 in labor alone. + consider 300 for a collar and machining and 250 for a n1 pump. at the same time you will want to do water pump, timing belt, tensioner etc basically id ball park for ~$2000-2500. that being said it is a little over kill if this is strictly a street car. as cobraa stated a oil cooler is not a must for street cars but it would also be nice to have. for a nice set up your looking at 800-1000 including install. you can piece a kit together your self but save your self the hassle and pick up a used complete kit in the f/s section. they come up all the time. if i was you id stay away from the limiter (if your disciplined enough even having the limiter removed can be a good idea) and drive the car and enjoy it. when the motor does go it may handle 250k km or it may handle 100k km then you can do a oem rebuild with the n1 pump. in short my advice save your money for when the time comes and enjoy the car for the time being. however keep up on preventative maintenance, regular oil changes, plugs, fluids etc even look at a timing kit depending on the km on the car.

[cobrAA]

i just thought it's irrelevant to thing about changing the oil pump without even driving the car yet... we usually think about other mods first than this one... like fixing the bobo, get the car tuned to our gas etc etc..

[DreadedFist]

7000rpm max and no rev limiter. Hope previous owners felt same way. If I was in same position and made of pure concentrated cash, I'd have a custom crank collar made up, similar to the ones that rhds13 I think his name is sells. I believe he said the problem is to much clearance between pump drive and pump, causing it to crash into the drive portion of the pump. He (rhds13 guy) said factory is .012" of clearance I believe, where his are .002" of clearance.

The key to longevity is mechanical sympathy.

[NismoS-tune]

I don't think I read what year but if it's early, you don't need a new oil pump or crank collar as long as you don't bounce off the rev limiter. I've owned 2 late model GTRs over the last 6 years and both had short collars and oem pumps. They're fine. If you have the money, the yeah, fix those but your engine would have to come out for the collar. Forget the tomei oil pump, excess money for a street car, an N1 is fine for what most people do here. Why spend $1300 more on a pump you're not using to full potential when a good enough N1 is safe. Just stay under 8000rpm, where 400whp is easy under.

No need for crazy expensive parts if you're not really using they're superior abilities. I realize that now where I should have simply driven a stock GTR (as that's all I ever did drive) and save my large cash sums for a new GTR or 370z with twin turbo.

[cobrAA]

No need for crazy expensive parts if you're not really using they're superior abilities. I realize that now where I should have simply driven a stock GTR (as that's all I ever did drive) and save my large cash sums for a new GTR or 370z with twin turbo.

HAHAHAH so true! I'm happy to admit it.

[beacher1B0]

Shop rates will eat up lots of money that could be spend on maintenance and upgrades.

[gtrjon]

I don't think I read what year but if it's early, you don't need a new oil pump or crank collar as long as you don't bounce off the rev limiter. I've owned 2 late model GTRs over the last 6 years and both had short collars and oem pumps.

not true at all. i bought a new oem r34 crank still has the same .012" clerance as any rb26 crank. a collar is needed for rb26 crank!!! i am still amazed at how this information is not commonly known amongst all skyline owners.

[NismoS-tune]

not true at all. i bought a new oem r34 crank still has the same .012" clerance as any rb26 crank. a collar is needed for rb26 crank!!! i am still amazed at how this information is not commonly known amongst all skyline owners.

You must have bought it from Nismoparts if you still needed a collar on a 34 crank...

[r0k0]

well i dont plan on reving off the limiter, but i dont intend on going at the track a couple of times and probably Autocrossing, but i almost never hit rev limiter, i know on my current car the rec limits at 7200rpm so i shift at 7000rpm the only time i do rev off the limiter is at 1st gear burnout or when taking off to match speed to rpm

but the best option is a R34 Crank ? then match the collar to 0.02" clearance ? i've got member discount at a special Canadian tire here in Ottawa where they sponsor the MCO ( Motorsport Club of Ottawa ) and they tune, adjust, rebuilt, swap, etc on every car and all the mecanics are certified aftermarket / tuning so i can do the rebuilt there for 45% discount compared to any shop i know

i've done full suspension swap, allignement, rings swap and cams install there with no hassel and Autocross my car every weekend

about the Oil cooler, even tho its a street car will it benefit in keeping the engine longer ? cooler oil for the head and turbos and also someone mention me about the 6th cylinder not getting enough air..?!? any one here as a thought on that ?

[NismoS-tune]

You can pick up a Setrab or Mocal oil cooler core for fairly cheap then figure out the hoses yourself. You don't need to spend $500+ on a fancy kit if you just want functional.