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Which / What Viscosity / Engine OIL type? Do you guys use, results, feedback?

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  • Which / What Viscosity / Engine OIL type? Do you guys use, results, feedback?

    Hi everyone, i would like to ask guys who is pushing over 400bhp and running in 11 sec club or lower, what kind of oil and viscosityies they are using! What their results?

    On my rebuild engine i have stockish clearances ~0.030 - 0.035 mm clearances, if it helps to anyone!)
    Currently not even on the ground yet, going to break in with coulple of oil changes with 5w30, but than im thinking to go with eather 10w40 or 15w50, (no oil cooler system yet)


    GTRCO.UK - http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/32925-wha...r-skyline.html

    Lots of reading about oil on my350z forum - http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-d...-and-info.html


    More like a sticky now:

    Thread about Royal Purple: http://forums.gtrcanada.com/general-...urple-ftw.html





    TTBB is a true ACN member

  • #2
    I've used 0w30 to 20w50 in mine. Starts easiest and runs best with 0w30 during cold weather in my experience. When I had 20w50, it was way to thick at startup and the car felt like **** until it was up to operating temperature. Once it was up to temp it felt nice, though. Switched to a 0 weight on the advice of a local member who was concerned about how thick a 20w is during warm up. Once me car is back up and happy, the weather will be warming up again so I'll try a 5w40.

    I'd mostly be concerned about the first number in modern engines. You want that oil to be thin enough to get into the tightest spaces asap at start up. Second number, 30 seems good for colder weather, with 40 and 50 being good during our brief Canadian summers.

    I have no experience in the oil industry, and am going purely on my own experiences as well as the experiences of others that I have read/heard. Don't take this post as anything more

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    • #3
      I use 5W40 Motul 8100 X-Cess, works great!
      RightDrive Inc. Parts Manager
      http://www.rightdrive.ca :: http://www.rightdriveparts.com :: http://www.rightdriveusa.com
      1970 Highway 7 West, Vaughan, ON :: 1-877-398-8220



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      • #4
        you using regular mineral oil for break-in?

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        • #5
          Royal purple 15w50
          oil pressure is stronger And I have an oem oil pump
          Car barely starts at 0 degreese but great in the summer
          R33 GTST RB25DET series 1
          Stock motor, holset HX40, power fc d-jetro, bolt ons, 20psi = 492rwhp 364 lbft

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          • #6
            I havent had a chance to run legit oil yet but i was running 10W40 Castrol for the break in. Never got out of break in though.

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            • #7
              running excessively thick oil to increase pressure is a not a good thing, ideally with oil at operating temp you want to have oil pressure as speced by a service manual (I'm assuming a motor with internals that aren't highly modified). Now I am not sure what the stock oil pumps bypass pressure rating is but once oil pressure is exceeding that limit you are limiting the volume of oil flowing through your motor, and since pump flow is related to rpm you don't want pressure to rise to fast, or you will be hitting the limit at too low of an rpm.

              this is a good read on oil http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq...=haas_articles

              In general flow is what creates seperation in a bearing, and also provides cooling.
              Last edited by MikeyRHD; 12-31-2011, 06:50 PM.

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              • #8
                You can buy a break in additive to use as well. My engine guy recomends Shell rotella for the initial break in with the additive. Yes its diseal oil, I guess there still allowed to use lead etc. in diseal oils so people are using the stuff in gas engines now. Lots of classic cars and hot rods etc run the stuff. Not good for your cats though........

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by MikeyRHD View Post
                  running excessively thick oil to increase pressure is a not a good thing, ideally with oil at operating temp you want to have oil pressure as speced by a service manual (I'm assuming a motor with internals that aren't highly modified). Now I am not sure what the stock oil pumps bypass pressure rating is but once oil pressure is exceeding that limit you are limiting the volume of oil flowing through your motor, and since pump flow is related to rpm you don't want pressure to rise to fast, or you will be hitting the limit at too low of an rpm.

                  this is a good read on oil http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq...=haas_articles

                  In general flow is what creates seperation in a bearing, and also provides cooling.
                  This.

                  People, stop wanting to run like the big boys by using the thick stuff when it's unnecessary. I'm running 5W30 to the manual's pressure specs with no heat soak problem (never got higher than 95°C). The TSM calls for a 10+ weight increase when OIL RUNNING TEMP is higher than 100ish IIRC, so I'd seriously be weary of using thicker than spec for a break in, especially when OEM bearing lubrification spec is factored in.

                  EDIT:

                  Also, quick engineering lesson, with pumps, maxing the pressure vs flow chart can results in stall, meaning there's actually barely any flow in the system because all the energy is lost through parasitic drag.
                  Last edited by MarusGTR; 01-01-2012, 10:15 PM.
                  1992 BNR32 SKYLINE GTR

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                  • #10
                    I tried a few different oil's before using the 15w50 which my tuner recommended after two different tunes with different oil.
                    With a different set up of internals other than oem I'd use a different oil
                    With how my engine runs with my set up, the 15w50 made the overall drive feel stronger
                    When I say oil pressure was increased, its only noticeable before warm up.
                    Just seems to work best for me and was also recommended by a knowledgable person
                    R33 GTST RB25DET series 1
                    Stock motor, holset HX40, power fc d-jetro, bolt ons, 20psi = 492rwhp 364 lbft

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                    • #11
                      I used to run 5w30, but the car felt weak. I switched to 10w30 and now the car feels much stonger, revs nicer, and seems to hold a rock solid idle.
                      1989 R32 Skyline GTR SOLD!!!!

                      The key to immortality is first living a life worth remembering.
                      -Bruce Lee

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                      • #12
                        I use amsoil 15w50. Works perfect. However If you don't want to wait 5 min to warm it up then get something thinner. I usually warm it up until the pistons stop clacking and oil pressure drops down below 100psi. Takes almost 5 min at 0 C and about 2 min in summer...

                        ENEOS oil makes a 0W50 which is for Jap cars. I think I'm going to try that this year...

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                        • #13
                          They mention oil to use based on different clearances in race engines -



                          In result's of wear test's I've seen, Royal Purple is one of the best oils. Considering switching to Royal Purple or Fuchs race spec oil.

                          This is good guide to follow based on looking at oiltemps, cst to choose oil viscousity -



                          Factory engine runs 7.5w30 with factory clearances and note the rating at 100 degrees C for w30 oil. I think if engine is modified where oiltemps are higher, but not exceding 100 degrees C for long period, off the shelf would be 5w40 or 10W40 on road. If racetrack, change to w50 where oiltemps are around 100-120 degrees C most of the time.

                          The cst rating of oil at certain oiltemp is what you need to look at, factory w30 (factory engine) is a good guide as to what cst rating it needs to be to get to bearings, etc at higher rpm with factory clearances. Basically choose oil viscousity to match oiltemps, clearances for your cars engine.

                          On the road for lightly modified RB20DET, around 93 degrees max. When sport driving or have higher engine temperatures due to ECU tune, oil temp might excede 100 degrees sometimes hence using the w40. I run 10w40 Fuchs and can feel engine is way more responsive than running w50 or w60, smoother idle and by seat of the pants, there feels like more hp. Although I think a 5w40 might be better for cold startup. But that's for my cars engine.
                          Last edited by Skym; 01-02-2012, 08:38 AM.
                          RESPONSE MONSTER

                          The most epic signature ever "epic".

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by feyd182 View Post
                            I used to run 5w30, but the car felt weak. I switched to 10w30 and now the car feels much stonger, revs nicer, and seems to hold a rock solid idle.
                            What was you comp? I have 170 across and it feels strong but I havent tried anything else yet. Maybe I'll try something slightly thicker in the cold range.
                            1992 BNR32 SKYLINE GTR

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                            • #15
                              Well since we are on topic about oil temps.... Does anyone know what temp you are reading from a GREX filter/thermo block? I Don't have the car in front of me but I have my temp sensor in one of the spare ports on that block. I'm not sure if its pre cooler or after cooler. I want to say its after cooler because the gauge doesn't really read anything until the flow of oil opens up to the cooler.

                              Either way I drive my car fairly hard and see temps of 200F on the street and at least 220-230 F on the track which is like 105 to 110 c

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