what kind of power..

[Billy_Jack]

i'm wondering what the reliable limit i can produce is with the following engine setup:

hks gt2530's (rebalanced)
cp 86.5 pistons
stock rods (magnafluxed)
arp head studs
arp rod bolts
cometic .051'' headgasket
acl rod and crank bearings
hks hard piping
denso 660cc injectors
kakimoto exhaust
oem oil pump
not sure on the fuel pump yet
hks fcon vpro
hks evc

i'm not interested in any sort of racing, perhaps some spirited driving but nothing with extended high rpms and i'm not going to have any battles with the rev limiter either

opinions?

[LittleDevilCRX]

With the HKS 2530's you should expect just over 500whp around the 1.4bar give or take and very responsive at that mark. I wouldn't go too far over that without doing some tranny work tho. I have basicly the same setup and stock tranny lasted a week. lol. hope that helps

[Billy_Jack]

that does help, what did you do to your tranny to upgrade it? the tranny has been apart on this car before (sealed with high temp silicone) and it was a track car when it was in japan, but i'm not interested in taking the tranny apart to see what is inside though.

[LittleDevilCRX]

You should be fine if it has been rebuilt. My tranny was the original stocker with 120XXXkm's on it so it made sense it was the first thing to go. Ended up losing 3rd gear. lol. I am going to try another stock low km tranny next. Hopefully it holds up. If not I may look towards the os giken 1-5 gear set and inputshaft. Issue is I like the stock gearing with the power my car makes.

[hozer]

OEM oil pump should be replaced. I wouldnt push for any sort of power without replacing that

Injectors are gonna be run pretty hard at around 500WHP.

Reliable limit for that exact setup I'd say 350-400WHP. OEM oil pump is not to be trusted beyond OEM power

[Billy_Jack]

You should be fine if it has been rebuilt. My tranny was the original stocker with 120XXXkm's on it so it made sense it was the first thing to go. Ended up losing 3rd gear. lol. I am going to try another stock low km tranny next. Hopefully it holds up. If not I may look towards the os giken 1-5 gear set and inputshaft. Issue is I like the stock gearing with the power my car makes.

do you know if there is any difference between the r33 tranny and the r32? as well this one has only 68000km, so i'm suspecting some aftermarket parts

[LittleDevilCRX]

r33 trannys are suppost to have better syncros but I haven't had one to rip apart yet. Newer is generally better.

To Hozers point, make sure you at the very least put a crank collar on the crank to fix the drive issue and also upgrade the oil pump to at least an n1. As the oem ones basicly gernade. Its like $200 to get a collar and fix the crankshalf and like 250ish to get a n1 oil pump. I kinda assumed everyone does that on a rebuild as its the weakest part of the rb's sorry about that oversight.

[gezed]

Aren't N1 oil pumps by design optimized for a higher operating RPM? and that being the only difference between OEM and N1

11 tooth vs 12 and stiffer relieve spring to increase pressure while flow rate remained the same.

So the pump you choose is based on what the purpose of your car would be, for example if you're doing mostly street driving with that setup then the OEM pump is optimized for that style of driving and the rev ranges that it'll see, and if you're gona rev the piss out of it all the time and track it everyday then go for a N1 or a Reimax hardened gear

I guess it all comes down to application since in terms of durability of gears, OEM and N1 are the same, but definately get a new pump when rebuilding

[MarusGTR]

Aren't N1 oil pumps by design optimized for a higher operating RPM? and that being the only difference between OEM and N1

11 tooth vs 12 and stiffer relieve spring to increase pressure while flow rate remained the same.

You're thinking of the N1 waterpump that has less impellers for high RPM and yes you're right N1 oil pump yields higher head at the same flow rate.

[gezed]

N1 oil pumps from Nismoparts.com is only $205 compared to $180 of the OEM might as well go for a N1 pump

[NismoS-tune]

i'm wondering what the reliable limit i can produce is with the following engine setup:

hks gt2530's (rebalanced)
cp 86.5 pistons
stock rods (magnafluxed)
arp head studs
arp rod bolts
cometic .051'' headgasket
acl rod and crank bearings
hks hard piping
denso 660cc injectors
kakimoto exhaust
oem oil pump
not sure on the fuel pump yet
hks fcon vpro
hks evc

i'm not interested in any sort of racing, perhaps some spirited driving but nothing with extended high rpms and i'm not going to have any battles with the rev limiter either

opinions?

400 to 500whp depending on the tuner. I'd stick with the HKS ecu, most likely find a good tuner then. You're limiting factor would be rods and injectors. I friend of mine had a similar setup (but with 87.5mm pistons and stock head) but needed bigger injectors (600cc were too small, went to 720cc) to reach 530whp, reliable. Who built your car or did you buy it like that? Got some odd combination or parts. Some are badass, some are oem. Chains break at the weakest link, even if you have a few titanium links

[Billy_Jack]

400 to 500whp depending on the tuner. I'd stick with the HKS ecu, most likely find a good tuner then. You're limiting factor would be rods and injectors. I friend of mine had a similar setup (but with 87.5mm pistons and stock head) but needed bigger injectors (600cc were too small, went to 720cc) to reach 530whp, reliable. Who built your car or did you buy it like that? Got some odd combination or parts. Some are badass, some are oem. Chains break at the weakest link, even if you have a few titanium links

i bought it somewhat like this, i'm currently rebuilding it so i still have the option to upgrade some internals. bearings pistons, head studs, and gaskets are currently in the mail and i still want to replace oil pump and take a look at the fuel pump, also it may be worth noting it is an r33 so i'm assuming the reliability of a stock oil pump is a bit better. as well i had the rods magnafluxed at a friends shop, they came out good and i'm installing arp rod bolts, i've also heard reliable figures for stock rb26 rods to be anywhere from 600-800hp? though i can't verify this properly.

[actionbstard]

kind of hard to find hks tuners.
Good ones that is and most can't access old fcons software.
I went to 3 hks tuners
all sucked
My advice is to get your hands on the software and cable usb and take it to any good tuner near you.
It's easy to calibrate if they are experienced.
If you can't find it pm me.
If you have a 3.0 to 3.2 even a 2.1 will work

[Billy_Jack]

I found one that is certified by HKS actually, and most accounts from people i have sought out individually, he is very knowledgeable and willing to dicuss what he is doing, thanks though........do you have the software?

[Skym]

I would fit Link G4 or Vipec ECU. From what I understand, HKS ECU is normally run as a piggyback ECU and not going to get as good of tune as what you can with a standalone due to stock ECU can switch maps, etc when knock / excesssive noise is detected, unless you run the HKS ECU in standalone mode which supposedly results in worse fuel economy. Also you need the barometric sensor (barometric sensor is built into Link G4, Vipec ECU's), as it won't be able to compensate for altitude without it.

Stock I beam conrods are good to around 700hp at engine on dyno. Been done many times. But most don't run more than around 460hp at engine when street driven.

Excessive revs, running on revlimiters all the time while thrashing damages stock oilpump drive, stock oilpump. Keep stock revlimiters and shift before redline / revlimiters. Also excessive revs snaps conrods, valve springs can't keep up (especially if rev into redline) and get valve bounce, etc.