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  • Oil restrictor

    What is it and do i need it?
    Being built...

  • #2
    restricts flow of oil from the block to the head, its good to have if you like to stay in the higher rev ranges

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    • #3
      Read this (oil gallery orifice) -

      1968年にチューナーで日産ワークスドライバーでもあった鈴木誠一が城北ライダースの仲間とともに「東名自動車」を設立し、2018年で創業50年を迎えます。そう、東名は「車好き」「チューニング好き」が集まって設立された会社です。


      Or do you mean oil restrictors to turbo's???
      Last edited by Skym; 02-28-2012, 09:57 PM.
      RESPONSE MONSTER

      The most epic signature ever "epic".

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      • #4
        Umm, im not sure, ill be running anywere from 500-550hp and someone told me ill need an oil restrictor.... is there only one size to this? (1.5)
        Being built...

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Skym View Post
          Read this (oil gallery orifice) -

          1968年にチューナーで日産ワークスドライバーでもあった鈴木誠一が城北ライダースの仲間とともに「東名自動車」を設立し、2018年で創業50年を迎えます。そう、東名は「車好き」「チューニング好き」が集まって設立された会社です。


          Or do you mean oil restrictors to turbo's???

          X2 for the turbo
          ?
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          • #6
            http://www.scribd.com/doc/5156877/Ni...l-Control-Mods

            This is a good reference for what size you need, tomei isnt the only ones that make these restrictors, look around there are other options

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            • #7
              first question is which turbos are you running?

              do you need a head restrictor or turbo restrictors?

              for the head i use 1.2mm.

              for BB turbos i use .030-.045

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              • #8
                Well basically, my motor i out of the car (R34 rb26) and im installing garrett gt2860r-5 turbos with tomei manifolds, dumps and poncams. 700cc injectors, 280L/h pump, greddy ebc, oil cooler, crank damper, splitfire coils,.I will be installing a metal headgasket with arp head studs(wanna run 20psi) so the head will be removed. I will also be removing the oil pan to install a baffle, and i was also asking myself if i should install an n1 oil pump, or is it not necessary kuz i got an r34 motor? So if this helps, i need to know if i need an oil restrictor and what size if i do..
                Being built...

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                • #9
                  you need the resatrictors in the oil lines to the turbos if you are using ball bearing turbos ( which 2860-5 are) because BB turbos require far less oil than journal bearing turbos.

                  You need the oil restrictor in the block if you are using a high volume oil pump and running at high rpm for extended periods of time to reduce the oil flow to the head . The cams and valve gear need suprisingly little oil and without the restricter it's possible with an upgraded pump / higher rpm to flood the head assembly way too much .

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                  • #10
                    I don't know why you would go that far without beefing up some internals. R34 motor or not.
                    Dang! You got shocks, pegs... Lucky! You ever take it off any sweet jumps?

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                    • #11
                      I would at least use a set of forged pistons - and have everything balanced ! I agree with ^^^

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                      • #12
                        Internals are staying stock untill they break, i understand the risk, i dont drive like an ***hole, so i think it will last a while,and to be honest, i can barely afford all these parts im installing, and i didnt even mention them all, so pistons etc, are out of the question.... Which is why i wanna get all these little things that can make my motor last longer...
                        Being built...

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                        • #13
                          going forged pistons doesn't mean you need to balance the rotating assembly unless the weight discrepancy of pistons are very significant or if the counterweights on the crank is damaged.

                          stock internals will hold its own very well especially considering its an r34 which means its still fairly new, you dont have to worry about the pump drive issue and with restrictors you will have a very solid bottom end

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                          • #14
                            I didnt say the forged pistons required balancing , i would balance the assembly anyways simply because as its cheap and easy to do , and it minimizes harmonic vibrations that contribute to engine wear. forged pistons are relatively cheap depending on what you get . He has the engine out - these are mods that are worth doing simply because its out and somewhat disassembled anyway.

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                            • #15
                              I guess it just provides peace of mind, when I had everything done at the machine shop, I was going to balance everything but the guys at the shop told me its really not necessary, since they are a very reputable shop here in BC ill trust their judgement

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