What is it and do i need it?
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Oil restrictor
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Last edited by Skym; 02-28-2012, 09:57 PM.RESPONSE MONSTER
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Originally posted by Skym View Post
X2 for the turbo
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91 accord exr - DD
R32 GTR - summer car SOLD
R33 GTST (sold)
91 civic hb (swap motor) - sold
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http://www.scribd.com/doc/5156877/Ni...l-Control-Mods
This is a good reference for what size you need, tomei isnt the only ones that make these restrictors, look around there are other options
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Well basically, my motor i out of the car (R34 rb26) and im installing garrett gt2860r-5 turbos with tomei manifolds, dumps and poncams. 700cc injectors, 280L/h pump, greddy ebc, oil cooler, crank damper, splitfire coils,.I will be installing a metal headgasket with arp head studs(wanna run 20psi) so the head will be removed. I will also be removing the oil pan to install a baffle, and i was also asking myself if i should install an n1 oil pump, or is it not necessary kuz i got an r34 motor? So if this helps, i need to know if i need an oil restrictor and what size if i do..Being built...
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you need the resatrictors in the oil lines to the turbos if you are using ball bearing turbos ( which 2860-5 are) because BB turbos require far less oil than journal bearing turbos.
You need the oil restrictor in the block if you are using a high volume oil pump and running at high rpm for extended periods of time to reduce the oil flow to the head . The cams and valve gear need suprisingly little oil and without the restricter it's possible with an upgraded pump / higher rpm to flood the head assembly way too much .
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Internals are staying stock untill they break, i understand the risk, i dont drive like an ***hole, so i think it will last a while,and to be honest, i can barely afford all these parts im installing, and i didnt even mention them all, so pistons etc, are out of the question.... Which is why i wanna get all these little things that can make my motor last longer...Being built...
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going forged pistons doesn't mean you need to balance the rotating assembly unless the weight discrepancy of pistons are very significant or if the counterweights on the crank is damaged.
stock internals will hold its own very well especially considering its an r34 which means its still fairly new, you dont have to worry about the pump drive issue and with restrictors you will have a very solid bottom end
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I didnt say the forged pistons required balancing , i would balance the assembly anyways simply because as its cheap and easy to do , and it minimizes harmonic vibrations that contribute to engine wear. forged pistons are relatively cheap depending on what you get . He has the engine out - these are mods that are worth doing simply because its out and somewhat disassembled anyway.
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I guess it just provides peace of mind, when I had everything done at the machine shop, I was going to balance everything but the guys at the shop told me its really not necessary, since they are a very reputable shop here in BC ill trust their judgement
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