Breaking in a new engine

[GTRSOAR]

What do you guys think? Completely opposite what I was expecting but he seems to really know his stuff...

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Can we please be above the bitch fights this time? Educated respectful convos only please. This is a DISCUSSION forum, lets keep it that way

That is all.

[bobbo]

I read that before when breaking in a new motorcycle. I agree with it for the most part. I can't didn't read the whole article but critical points would be making sure the engine and oil are up to temp, avoid high revs but make sure you can load the engine up ie. going up hills. Heat cycles are also important.
I used conventional motor oil for the first 1500kms changing it after the first 500 kms, 1200kms and then to Synthetic at 1500kms.

[gtrjon]

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/general-skyline-discussion/50143-break-methods.html

[GTRSOAR]

Why not synthetic oil for break in? I use Motul 15w50. I should wait till after break in to use it?

[gtrjon]

read the link

[NismoS-tune]

you want the crappiest oil with the most zinc. and beat on it (after you're sure there's no leaks). I did lots of 3/4 accels then decel, the accel, then decel and so on. lots of hills. Vacuum pulls are good for loading up the rings. just don't drive it easy.

[newalliance123]

Just beat on it, heat cycle it 3-4 times then put on dyno... Simple with the way engines are honed these days...

[MattiasJacobs]

I just broke my motor in this year too. According to Radek (RSTuning), synthetic oil will not let your piston rings properly seat onto your freshly bored block. I used regular old castrol 10w30 while changing it every 500km for the first 2000km then one last one for the last 1000km. He also mentioned that your rings are usually seated in the first 100km but the break in is to get the heat cycles on your bearings, i.e. dont just drive it to Nunavut and back. Get the motor as hot as possible then let it cool right down over night. I loaded up my engine as much as possible during break in just like the others said and my motor is performing well. We'll see how well it really does on the dyno next friday. Goodluck and dont dump synthetic in there please lol.

[GTRSOAR]

Will do! Wow, thank so much for the help guys. I woulda buggered this up completely if i didnt ask haha

[curtisgoodman]

Lotta good info... i read the first link when i broke my engine in but also did alot of other research. I did 5500rpm limiter with wastegates wired open still made close to 10psi drove it home with a follow car so i could speed up and slow down on the highway, like doing pulls and letting the engine rev itself down, also no constant throttle for the first couple heat cycles. I changed the oil and filter when i got home after 60-70kms (lots of debris from rings breaking in and possible metal shavings from machining) then heat cycled with varying throttle applications and changed oil and filter every 500kms till i hit 1500kms then hit the RG dyno in coquitlam with synthetic oil... follow what u think best using some of the guidelines on this thread and ull be fine... im running 510awhp on rgs dyno at 28psi laughing all the way down the road.

Curt

[curtisgoodman]

Lotta good info... i read the first link when i broke my engine in but also did alot of other research. I did 5500rpm limiter with wastegates wired open still made close to 10psi drove it home with a follow car so i could speed up and slow down on the highway, like doing pulls and letting the engine rev itself down, also no constant throttle for the first couple heat cycles. I changed the oil and filter when i got home after 60-70kms (lots of debris from rings breaking in and possible metal shavings from machining) then heat cycled with varying throttle applications and changed oil and filter every 500kms till i hit 1500kms then hit the RG dyno in coquitlam with synthetic oil... follow what u think best using some of the guidelines on this thread and ull be fine... im running 510awhp on rgs dyno at 28psi laughing all the way down the road.

Curt