What about a temperature sensor? I had that issue when my car was cold the engine wasn't adjusting timing according to the temperature and was doing that exact issue, only once the engine reached 150+ it was running fine it was the wrong sensor that was sending the wrong signal to the ecu
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Turbo shuffle / misfire / hesitation
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Little bit of an update , so far found a couple vacuum lines under the plenum that were pretty beat up and replaced them. The car idles better , drives a lot better and the symptoms are not nearly as bad as they were before. They're still there if the car is under a lot of load ( ex. if there's 3 people in the car and you're going up a hill ). Still chasing it but making some progress. Starting to think it could be a faulty boost solenoid or the wastegates are not working properly. Any thoughts ?
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Build a pressure testing gadget with plumbing caps and a tire valve, pressurize your whole intake / Ic piping system start right at the air filters, and make your way to the intake plenum, the garage might have found vac leaks but probably didn't look for boost leaks, also sounds like the solenoid either isn't plumbed properly or is failing, maybe not setup properly but it Definetly sounds like boost/wg issue
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I had a similar problem with my R32 GTR. On mine the bov would go off like crazy under light boost or at full boost. If I accelerated up slowly and kept the boost just below max it wouldn't do it. I replaced the spark plugs, replaced the coil packs with Yukon coils which also eliminated the ignitor and coil harness, checked for boost/vacuum leaks. Still the problem remained.
Turned out to be the vacuum lines to the waste gate actuators were plumbed incorrectly. I had one of the lines way longer then the other. I think it was causing one of the waste gates to open before the other and cause a major shuffle with one turbo boosting and one not.
Problem is fixed now and all is good. It may not help in your particular case, but, I thought I would post up in case it might help someone else.
Your problem sounds like an ecu fault to me. If it runs fine for a bit after changing/fixing an electrical component then the problem comes back. It seems as if the computer is resetting and takes a little bit to "re-find" the problem.
Anyhow, good luck with finding the problem. These cars sure are fun for the time they run properly! haha
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Originally posted by mold View PostI had a similar problem with my R32 GTR. On mine the bov would go off like crazy under light boost or at full boost. If I accelerated up slowly and kept the boost just below max it wouldn't do it. I replaced the spark plugs, replaced the coil packs with Yukon coils which also eliminated the ignitor and coil harness, checked for boost/vacuum leaks. Still the problem remained.
Turned out to be the vacuum lines to the waste gate actuators were plumbed incorrectly. I had one of the lines way longer then the other. I think it was causing one of the waste gates to open before the other and cause a major shuffle with one turbo boosting and one not.
Problem is fixed now and all is good. It may not help in your particular case, but, I thought I would post up in case it might help someone else.
Your problem sounds like an ecu fault to me. If it runs fine for a bit after changing/fixing an electrical component then the problem comes back. It seems as if the computer is resetting and takes a little bit to "re-find" the problem.
Anyhow, good luck with finding the problem. These cars sure are fun for the time they run properly! haha
What is the best way to check the wastegates? To make sure they are synced to open at the same time. On my car the computer shows they open at the same time, but mechanically checking them might show a little difference?
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