whats involved with fitting HKS banjo bolt turbo restrictors?? (engine in car)

[jimBNR32]

looking for a bit of help and guidance.

what is involved with fitting these restrictors with the engine and turbos (2860-5s) in the car??
i would hope its a straight enough swap, just fiddly to get to? where abouts is the relavant oil feed banjo bolt on the turbos once in the car (pics??), from what i can make out its the very top one when installed?

i would assume as the stock lines need to be in place for you to bolt and torque the original banjos on everything must be accessable to remove and install a different banjo bolt??

im new to the cars, and havent tackled anything like this on the skyline yet. (r32 gtr).
just wondered if those who've tackled it or have a good idea could give me an idea of whats involved?

having looked in the bay, ive very worried about all the water/oil/vac metal hardlines being in the way!
do these need to come off? i have to assume they do to get the heatshields off?
how much coolant do i need to drain, or are these lines dry when the engine isnt running??

i HOPING i dont need to drop the turbos, and in turn other oil lines/feeds and downpipes etc.

if someone could answer all of my questions that would be real helpful, thanks





jim

[jimBNR32]

Lots of views, any comments/advice??

:-)

[PurpleStreak]

If you are referring to the fitting on the turbo chra itself that you want to change, then you have to drop the turbo from the manifold (assuming it's the stock manifold). Have a look thru my build thread if you want some pics to show how tight it is.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2

[jimBNR32]

yeh from what i can see, i need to lower it (which obviously means removing a fair about of parts around it)

im hoping i only need to lower it an inch or so so i have enough room to get a tool on there to remove the original banjo bolt and swap it for the restrictor.
i certainly dont want to be having to remove the manifold and turbos fully to do it! tho to be fair to get to that point im suggesting, am virtually there for pulling the whole lot out anyway!

[MattiasJacobs]

Holy eff your alll crazy. Remove the oil banjo bolt on the right side of each turbo. Weld the end and drill in the size restrictor you want. If you remove your turbos you are crazy my UK friend.

[NismoS-tune]

I have a set of turbo oil feed restrictors for sale. They were used for 1200km and are for any BB turbos. PM for details, they're cheap.

You also don't have to do no jdm jimmy friggin with welding and drilling.

[markdett]

I think he has the restrictors already?

Unforunatley, to fit the restricted banjo bolts you gotta drop the turbo's.

Id order a fresh set of gaskets and washer too.

[jimBNR32]

by drop, are we just talking an inch or 2?? or completely removing the manifold and turbos from the bay??
yep ive got the restrictors already.

ive found some suitable pics and so can see its the banjo nearest the turbo/mani flange on the top, so hopefully reachable while still in the bay if turbos lowered a bit?

unfortunatly means if dropping the turbos down even slightly, downpipe, brackets, oil/water lines need to be unbolted.

the car is ment to have new gaskets all round, so hopefully fine there.

[jimBNR32]

Holy eff your alll crazy. Remove the oil banjo bolt on the right side of each turbo. Weld the end and drill in the size restrictor you want. If you remove your turbos you are crazy my UK friend.

i like the idea of this.
i assume your talking about the left hand side banjo of the 2 that bolt up to the comp housing??
these look reachable from the top easily with a few bits removed.

i was HOPING it was infact this banjo i needed to replace, but seems not, well thats not what the restrictors from hks are for (there for the one attached directly on the oil feed to the housing) :-(

[PurpleStreak]

Yep most of the restrictors go on the center housing. There is also the option of an inline restrictor in your oil feed lines.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2

[jimBNR32]

Yep most of the restrictors go on the center housing. There is also the option of an inline restrictor in your oil feed lines.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2

its a shame places dont modify and supply a different restricted banjo on the comp housing bracket as i mentoned.
this is the easiest to get to surely in terms of room and least amount to remove?
why dont folk do these?? this is basically an inline restrictor as theres only another 6inchs or so until that oil line feeds to the turbo itself.

[Frankyy]

by drop, are we just talking an inch or 2?? or completely removing the manifold and turbos from the bay??
yep ive got the restrictors already.

ive found some suitable pics and so can see its the banjo nearest the turbo/mani flange on the top, so hopefully reachable while still in the bay if turbos lowered a bit?

unfortunatly means if dropping the turbos down even slightly, downpipe, brackets, oil/water lines need to be unbolted.

the car is ment to have new gaskets all round, so hopefully fine there.

Do it once, do it right, drop the turbos so basically undo everything on that side EXCEPT the manifolds, If you have a setup like this you can afford 2 downpipe gaskets, the thick metal turbo gaskets are normally reusable if still in good condition, If not its just another 2 gaskets my friend blew 3 sets of bb turbos cause he was certain he didn't need restrictors on them. Do it soon!

[jimBNR32]

thanks all for the replies.
have a fair old task ahead of me.

regarding oil/coolant, do i need to drain any?? im hoping and assuming oil i dont (as will be in the sump), but coolant, is it werth me draining a litre or 2 from the rad up front?? id rather loose as little coolant as possible removing all those lines above the heatshields.

also is it werth me ditching any of the vacuum pipes/lines around the turbo area?? ill be using an electronic boost controller sometime soon so will likely use my own hoses.
talking of vac lines, what is the tiny hardline coming off the recirc piping that goes around the back of the head?? where does this lead to?? can this be ditched? i do plan on going back to a recirc bov setup soon so wondered if its definatly needed??

thanks

[PurpleStreak]

I hate to reference my own posts again but
http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gt-r-pro...tml#post520848

Keep in mind the colors are switched as per my caption in the post.

[jimBNR32]

ive seen that image before, but it doesnt tell me what that line actually does, i cant seem to find any info on it.
surely that line (labelled air connector, and vaccum tube) is open to atmosphere so bares no pressure.
why would this be hooked up in any way to the oem boost solenoid when itll leak (past the afm/filter).

arh, is it perhaps the bled air from the solenoid (like how a manual boost controller works) and is simply recirculated back into the system, and hence doesnt matter that it has no pressure??
in which case i dont need it?

fyi, my oem boost solenoid is completely removed and both the lines coming off of it are blocked (by the tuner). i dont plan on hooking it back up.
am currently running wastegate pressure only.