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  • Lower control arm modification?

    Hey guys, so I got some wheel fitment troubles and I'm looking for a solution so I'm not stanced like a drifter, and of course the options for adjustable aftermarket parts are slim.

    I'm wondering if anyone has made their rear lower control arms shorter so it will reduce negative camber and bring the wheel inward? Or if anyone has heard or seen this done. My rear wheels need to be pushed in about an inch.

    I was thinking of getting a heim joint and adapting it in place of the ball joint while making it adjustable, or doing the same with spherical bushings on the inner.....or just chopping and welding with reinforcement to the size I want.

    Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
    “Hey, come on, its a car right? No. It’s a symbol of your history, its a thread of continuity from which you came to where you are. It’s important that you don’t want to forget who you are.” -Dr.Phil in "Love the Beast"

  • #2
    Only issue I can see is cv shaft/swaybar /hicas arm length. If you change the geometry of the rear arms, it will affect the range of motion on the shafts. They will be forced to the inner most part of the cups causing them to bind. The sway bar and hicas arms will be too long to line up with the rear links and knuckles.

    No way to just add some positive camber to solve it, or are your tires hitting the wheel arches?


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    Last edited by Voodoo_ChildR32; 02-06-2013, 01:01 AM.
    1989 R32 Skyline GTR SOLD!!!!

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    • #3
      If I ran 0 camber I would be stick about 2 inches out the fender, so my options without suspension mods are a decent fender pull or flares unless I want to run aggressive camber. Given my fenders are brand new crated from Nissan and spent a large money on body work I would like do as little body work as possible. (I know massive wheels may not have been smart but I'm set on them)

      My hicas system has been removed and adjustable delete kit in so I think that's adjustable enough to compensate, the sway bars would stay in the same spot if I chopped the arm after the mounting point, so the only thing I can see is the cv joint like you mentioned.

      I'll get a set of flares if I have to but I haven't been able to find any that are eBay specials yet.
      “Hey, come on, its a car right? No. It’s a symbol of your history, its a thread of continuity from which you came to where you are. It’s important that you don’t want to forget who you are.” -Dr.Phil in "Love the Beast"

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      • #4
        Size/offset of rims? R32 or 33?

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        • #5
          18x11 -1
          “Hey, come on, its a car right? No. It’s a symbol of your history, its a thread of continuity from which you came to where you are. It’s important that you don’t want to forget who you are.” -Dr.Phil in "Love the Beast"

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          • #6
            Originally posted by caliber676 View Post
            18x11 -1
            well there's your problem

            no doable suspension mods can fix this issue, because of everyting Voodoo mentionned,
            the only thing you could do is -2deg camber (~0.5 over stock) or more, and a good fender pull

            you kinda shot yourself in the foot with those wheels...
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            • #7
              I'll make it work, just wondering if its doable
              “Hey, come on, its a car right? No. It’s a symbol of your history, its a thread of continuity from which you came to where you are. It’s important that you don’t want to forget who you are.” -Dr.Phil in "Love the Beast"

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              • #8
                Originally posted by caliber676 View Post
                I'll make it work, just wondering if its doable
                i'm currently working on this, and its not doable, not an inch, maybe 1/4" tops !

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                [links to all chapters in first post]

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                • #9
                  That's pretty cool you can do that on the comp. I'm good with a wrench, not so much with a mouse. I need to learn!
                  91 gtr , 93 rx7 type r and a multicolor 240 スカイライン

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                  • #10
                    As soon as you custom build that suspension, don't you get booted out of the street/club classes (for competition)? Kinda like the WTAC rules?
                    Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
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                    • #11
                      Sure its doable, you just need to shorten the halfshafts to suit. Not a big deal, engine swappers do it all the time (think Cadillac V8 into a Fiero). Just need to completely bust down the shaft and take it to a drive line shop and have them take an inch or whatever out of it. They will weld and balance them back up again, shouldn't cost more than $2-250.

                      You'll have way more than that in the control arm modifications....it'll be worth it though, that kind of dish on a stock fender well will have everyone jealous as hell and scratching their heads.



                      Jon.
                      Last edited by Dragon Humper; 02-12-2013, 03:32 AM.
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                      1990 GTR Drag Special T88H34D 11.24 @ 127.55mph at only 1.2bar...... officially. SOLD

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                      • #12
                        I felt the exact same way, and I already was in talks with a shop that does 125 a side for cv shaft modifications. I don't think it's as terrible as some say it is and I know it's easy achieved. I guess we'll see when it's done, that's all that can be said
                        “Hey, come on, its a car right? No. It’s a symbol of your history, its a thread of continuity from which you came to where you are. It’s important that you don’t want to forget who you are.” -Dr.Phil in "Love the Beast"

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                        • #13
                          I think the fender mod strategy has a better chance at success.
                          oh hai!

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by NismoS-tune View Post
                            As soon as you custom build that suspension, don't you get booted out of the street/club classes (for competition)? Kinda like the WTAC rules?
                            Originally posted by GTR203 View Post
                            That's pretty cool you can do that on the comp. I'm good with a wrench, not so much with a mouse. I need to learn!
                            thanks

                            to be in street class, you can't modify the pickup points of the suspension, and can't modify axles

                            but the rules of the time attack series i take part in only qualify tires for classes, to keep things simple



                            to shorten all the arms to tuck the wheels back in might take some work




                            Originally posted by Black BNR32 View Post
                            I think the fender mod strategy has a better chance at success.
                            i second that
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                            [links to all chapters in first post]

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                            • #15
                              I agree the fender flares or pull would be a lot easier, no question there but if the suspension shortening is doable then I like a challenge. All the things mentioned are appreciated and good things to think about when I decide to tackle this.
                              “Hey, come on, its a car right? No. It’s a symbol of your history, its a thread of continuity from which you came to where you are. It’s important that you don’t want to forget who you are.” -Dr.Phil in "Love the Beast"

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