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Trans not mounting after clutch change

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  • #31
    Thinking your GTR was stock before, Did you bleed BOTH bleed nipples? Of course, you most likely read the field service manual before getting on this rather that will and want experience only :P
    Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
    Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
    Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
    Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
    Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
    White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

    Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

    start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
    lol

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    • #32
      Did you cut the input shaft sleeve before putting everything back? As far as I remember, the sleeve needs to be cut back 4 to 5mm otherwise, it might push against the clutch plate. Check your installation manual that comes with the clutch. There is description of the process, if you do not know what I am talking about.

      Originally posted by R32calgary View Post
      Ok so got her back in and bled the system but can't get it in gear while cars running if I put it in first and then clutch to start with foot on brake it stays in gear and if I let off brake and keep clutch in I start rolling but with brake on it don't stall out. Any ideas why? as I have said I bled the system fully Atleast 10 times thinking that there must be air in the system and it seems like the slave is getting full movent it extends till about half inch to an inch from the end of the hole in the tranny.
      Last edited by xcye; 05-18-2013, 12:38 AM.

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      • #33
        NismoS. Yes I bled at the damper box as well as the slave itself.

        xcye. The manual didn't say anything about cutting my input shaft. It literally said the most obvious thing like (remove trans as per owners manual, remove clutch as per owners manual, remove flywheel, optional replace pilot, install flywheel tq to (14.5-15.5 kg-m) install clutch plates and pressure plate tq to (1.8 kg-m) reinstall trans as per owners manual.) Was the most basic thing I ever seen was just a 2 sided piece of paper. And came with a release bearing in the box. Ended up having one of my brothers friends who is a red seal mechanic help get trans in inline 40 min including removing from where I had it checking it out and us putting it snuged up to motor.

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        • #34
          The stock slave cylinder should push 11mm. If your using the nismo slave 8mm, witch sometimes is not enough movement in some twin plates. Ensure your getting the full 11mm travel and if its a nismo unit switch it back to stock. Bleeding with engine on can sometimes make it easier considering its a vacuum assisted system.
          You may also need a slight pedal adjustment as these clutches disengage quite close to the floor.

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          • #35
            How do I adjust the pedal?

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            • #36
              Here is the installation manual that I have.
              Basically, here are three things that needs to be done before the installation.
              1. Remove damping loop
              2. Trim input shaft sleeve
              3. Trim OEM flywheel bolts




              Originally posted by R32calgary View Post
              NismoS. Yes I bled at the damper box as well as the slave itself.

              xcye. The manual didn't say anything about cutting my input shaft. It literally said the most obvious thing like (remove trans as per owners manual, remove clutch as per owners manual, remove flywheel, optional replace pilot, install flywheel tq to (14.5-15.5 kg-m) install clutch plates and pressure plate tq to (1.8 kg-m) reinstall trans as per owners manual.) Was the most basic thing I ever seen was just a 2 sided piece of paper. And came with a release bearing in the box. Ended up having one of my brothers friends who is a red seal mechanic help get trans in inline 40 min including removing from where I had it checking it out and us putting it snuged up to motor.
              Last edited by xcye; 05-19-2013, 01:11 PM.

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              • #37
                Originally posted by R32calgary View Post
                How do I adjust the pedal?
                There is a 17mm bolt with a captured nut that holds the pedal in place along with a spring. The pedal needs to be pulled away from the master cylinder by first removing the gold pin with cotter that attaches it to the master and then the 17mm bolt that will drop the pedal away from the adjustment fitting. You can pry the spring off its perch with a slotted screw driver. Once the pedal is out of the way you can freely adjust the the threaded fitting attached to the clutch master on the inside of the fire wall. Turn counter clockwise for slightly higher actuation.
                Removing that loop will save you a lot of headaches bleeding too

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                • #38
                  I upload the manual in my last post. Please check it out.

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                  • #39
                    Ya my manual was just a piece of printer paper it didn't even say os giken on it. But it's in and working fine now I just get a bit of what seems like trans shift when I first start moving in first and reverse

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