Suspension Setup R32 GTR

[RANTARAVE]

I ran the AMS aftermarket front upper control arms without replacing the Tension rods and one of the wheels camber really went out one day (-2.2)

Took my car to get aligned and the rear camber was -2 degrees.
He wanted to adjust it into spec but one of the camber arms adjusters was stuck. ended up with -1.5 and -2 and the car is not riding so good.

I guess running aftermarket upper control arms have softened my tension rods and it pulls ever so slightly under braking. The front suspension also has started clicking in dips. I'm guessing the front arms are worn out or not in spec.

tldr: my suspension front and rear needs a rebuild.

Front Suspension:
used R32 GT-R front upper control arms and rebuild them with new bushings (save some money?)
Nismo circuit Link set (tension rods, new Bracket, Lower arms)
Might be a good time to also get new tie rods ends, how can you tell if they're worn?

Rear Suspension:

New OEM rear camber arms. They're the same as the 300zx right? Also, I am having difficulty how the stock camber arms are adjustable?

[MarusGTR]

Couple questions.

How did it "go out"? The collar loosened and it skipped a few threads? Don't know why you think the tension rods are to blame when the whole upper control arm is a balljoint; something's gotta yield to strain and that's the squared upper control arm. AMS's midori-style control arm collar is typically too weak (like all Midori-style arms), but you can change them to T-bolt clamps to increase clamp pressure. If you do think the tension rods are weak, check the bushings for tears, if not, its not your issue. As for the pull under breaking, your FUCAS might be unsquared (both ends not on the same plane), changing the caster.

The rear FUCAS adjuster was stuck? How'd that happen? Anyway was setting two different cambers your tech's idea? Because it seriously wasn't a good one. Both sides to -2 would have been a better compromise. And yes 300zx are the same and OEMs are set with the cambolt, where the FUCAS is bolted in the rear subframe mount. Mind you I'm maxed at -2.2 on my stockers. If you want to keep OEMs, Whiteline offers a bushing that can take another 0.5° off.

As for the clicking, your bolts are too tight and binding the bearings. Take off some pressure by rebolting them. Someone's giving too much sauce to your bolts eh?

As for tie rods and etc, google. Pretty much all of these issues have been discussed before btw, read up!

PS: Bolt your nismo tension rod with the front suspension fully loaded. I can't stress this enough, or else you'll tear through the bushings.

[RANTARAVE]

I have no idea how the collar went out. Driving along one day and it started really pulling one direction.
In regards to the tension rods, I've heard you are supposed to get stronger tension rods installing the midori FUCAS. I have also heard not running strengthened tension rods can cause the FUCAS to wear out, but that might just be an excuse from the manafacturer??

I dont understand how the FUCAS could be unsquared? They were working well before the alignment issue, when the alignemnt went off is when they started to pull under braking, also after the alignment was finished it was still there. It's not a major problem.

I have no idea why the rear camber adjust is stuck, he said "I can't adjust the rear camber. Its like a cam and you can only turn it so far before it resets back." He was hell bent in bringing in my rear camber. I told him not to touch the rear suspension, but he said he wouldn't warranty any work if he didn't "-2 degrees is full race, it will eat through your tires" lol

how do you recommend loading the suspension? put the front tires on ramps?

[MarusGTR]

I have no idea how the collar went out. Driving along one day and it started really pulling one direction.
In regards to the tension rods, I've heard you are supposed to get stronger tension rods installing the midori FUCAS. I have also heard not running strengthened tension rods can cause the FUCAS to wear out, but that might just be an excuse from the manafacturer??

I dont understand how the FUCAS could be unsquared? They were working well before the alignment issue, when the alignemnt went off is when they started to pull under braking, also after the alignment was finished it was still there. It's not a major problem.

I have no idea why the rear camber adjust is stuck, he said "I can't adjust the rear camber. Its like a cam and you can only turn it so far before it resets back." He was hell bent in bringing in my rear camber. I told him not to touch the rear suspension, but he said he wouldn't warranty any work if he didn't "-2 degrees is full race, it will eat through your tires" lol

how do you recommend loading the suspension? put the front tires on ramps?

The FUCAS can become unsquared from its axis reference. As you adjust the length, both ends become free to rotate. one end is mounted to the body so it stays in plane while the other, set on a kingpin arm which is in turn in axis by a balljoint, can slightly pivot towards the front or back of the car if not careful and (I assume) it can affect caster as a result.

I guess I missunderstood your RUCAS problem, I thought you were adjusting aftermarket ones and then went OEM after your tech said they were stuck. He was referring to the cambolt maxing out; at it's apex, both directions would increase negative camber. Still, having both sides maxed is better than coming out of an alignment shop with a peglegged setup, not too bright.

As for putting load on the suspension, ramps is safer or jack the RUCAS right until is takes load off an adjacent jackstand. Be creative.

EDIT: Just wanted to note that you can install the tension rods with the suspension unsprung as it'll be considerably easier to align the bushing. Push the bolt through the bushing and secure the nut finger tight. This will make everthing settle in and flex to a neutral position when you put load on the suspension, and -then- torque the nuts/bolts to spec.

[RANTARAVE]

The FUCAS can become unsquared from its axis reference. As you adjust the length, both ends become free to rotate. one end is mounted to the body so it stays in plane while the other, set on a kingpin arm which is in turn in axis by a balljoint, can slightly pivot towards the front or back of the car if not careful and (I assume) it can affect caster as a result.

I guess I missunderstood your RUCAS problem, I thought you were adjusting aftermarket ones and then went OEM after your tech said they were stuck. He was referring to the cambolt maxing out; at it's apex, both directions would increase negative camber. Still, having both sides maxed is better than coming out of an alignment shop with a peglegged setup, not too bright.

As for putting load on the suspension, ramps is safer or jack the RUCAS right until is takes load off an adjacent jackstand. Be creative.

EDIT: Just wanted to note that you can install the tension rods with the suspension unsprung as it'll be considerably easier to align the bushing. Push the bolt through the bushing and secure the nut finger tight. This will make everthing settle in and flex to a neutral position when you put load on the suspension, and -then- torque the nuts/bolts to spec.

OK that makes sense.

Yeah that tech is an idiot. He charged me 200 bucks for the alignment because "this is a custom job"

One last question do you think I should get the Cam type OEM arms or some el cheapo (AMS) slide type rear camber arms. They're both around the same price. do the slide type have any advantages?

[MarusGTR]

OK that makes sense.

Yeah that tech is an idiot. He charged me 200 bucks for the alignment because "this is a custom job"

One last question do you think I should get the Cam type OEM arms or some el cheapo (AMS) slide type rear camber arms. They're both around the same price. do the slide type have any advantages?

Like I said, I'm stuck at -2.2 because the stock arms can't extend long enough. So if you want to run OEM spec (0 to -1.5), by what you previously described as your current settings, you'll definitely need aftermarket arms. AMS-style arms have a good range but I can't recommend them for anything than street use.

If you're aiming for street use I honestly would recommend similarly-built ebay arms with conventional paint, as chrome plating on load bearing welds is just plain idiocy. I used AMS control arms on the track and last year burned through a spherical bearing and both arms cracked (and that's why I'm stuck with OEM arms for the time being). I was green and too trusting when I had bought them.

[Black BNR32]

2 degrees rear camber is too much, so get aftermarket arms. I run Gktech arms. Same as s13.

[MarusGTR]

2 degrees rear camber is too much, so get aftermarket arms. I run Gktech arms. Same as s13.

In my case, I didn't have the money to change the control arms, hence why the -2.2 remained for the time being. Toe is in order so wear should be minimal.

As for my suggestion for ebay arms, I was speaking in the sense of bare minimum. If you can afford better you should get better quality parts (again, the reason why I'm waiting to buy proper arms).

PS: At those correction levels, you might want to also change to rear spherical bearing traction rods, as the OEM bushings will start to bind.

[RANTARAVE]

Few last questions.

Are pillowballs OK to use on a street car?
Whats the life expectancy if they are?

Want to get new lug nuts for my stock wheels, The GT-R uses radius/ball or acorn type seats?

[king_cobra]

Yes they are great for street and track ONLY IF you get good quality ones.

Good ones last quite a long time.