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  • rb26 build questions/thread. join in!

    so this may be a mildly long read but i appreciate your time and it won't go wasted. so I'm planning on building my car over the next year, I've been going for the past almost year and this is whats done. i bought it bone stock with a hks silent hipower axel back. i then removed the cats, etc. bought a big fmic, greedy hard piping, turbo smart race port bov, apexi intakes, turbo smart manual boost controller, B&M oil cooler, Mishimoto rad, aem ems series 2 with map sensor, os giken ts2bd. the car is at 130kms and dynoed 348 whp and 274 torque, i street drive mostly and maybe 2-4 times a year will take it to the track (time attack and drag) so I'm looking for almost a best of both worlds. i will be building the bottom end in the far future so i just want to build everything else up and sufficient for my end goal of 700ish whp and tune it down till the bottom end comes into play for now, my goal is to reach about 500 whp which i know is safe if not ripped on all the time. so heres my question now, i know i will be doing 1000cc deatschwerks injectors, bosch 044 fuel pump, undecided on the brand of oil pump, different intake manifold but i should be good on stock for 500 i believe but id like to go single throttle body in the future, tomei cams, 1.2mm head gasket, head studs, what else would you guys advise in the head? over size valve, springs? probably going with a top mount manifold and external waste gate , and turbo is another one I'm stuck on , I'm pretty good feeling about the garrett gt38 but i don't know about a/r's i still have to do some reading in that department. i know this topic has been covered plenty of times but not quite the way I'm building. please don't rip on me, just looking for advice and trying to learn more as everyone did at one point.

    Cheers!

  • #2
    Hi, there, it all depends on your final WANTED number of HP BUT, never oversize valves, NEVER! If you planning to rev past 8.2k rpm you should consider dual (Supertech, cheapest, running them myself) or any aftermarket upgraded valve springs!
    Stock intake should be good for now! (Rather spend money on building down pipe/exhaust for following)
    Top mount with external wastegate is a must, but dont get $250 one from OBX or equivalent!
    Injector brand is good, size is a bit on the large scale (should be 700-800 cc's) (after achieving 500+ its an easy upgrade)
    Bosch 044 is good, same with the stock fuel lines should take you to 500, FPR (AEM being the trusted by many)
    Turbo, choice of individual, im Running BW S372, my buddy on somewhat upgraded engine with BW S366 (9180) is pushing 426hp (forget at what psi)
    A MUST - thicker aluminum rad/ Oil cooler!
    Timing Belt with both pulleys?
    ECU?
    Ignition coils?

    Good luck!
    TTBB is a true ACN member

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    • #3
      Run a decent oil pump (low oil pressure = engine failure), baffling for sump, accusump if aiming for higher hp than around 480hp at engine.

      Tomei oil pump is a good oil pump with I think a external oil pressure adjuster -



      I would suggest reading Tomei's catalogue, as it shows most of the common problems associated with RB engines -



      Also look at the Tomei crate engine specs which shows what needs to be replaced for what hp level -



      RESPONSE MONSTER

      The most epic signature ever "epic".

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      • #4
        If I were to throw in my two cents which has been mentioned by others.
        - don't get oversized valves, waste of money and machining cost
        -if you get bigger springs, match them to what the cam company recommends for spring pressure. I know supertech is good but there are discrepancies between running tomei cams and supertech single/dual springs, always check your spring pressure/forces.
        - get a good manifold, it will run you minimum $2000 + wastegate(s) unless you start looking for used deals.
        - do your research on turbos and a/r, stick with something that is tried and true and has a good product support, don't try to reinvent the wheel. Check build thread and dyno sheets and compare parts lists.
        -be familiar with welding and how to make lines because it will save you in the long run when you have to make intake, oil and coolant lines.
        -spend the money on a good oil pump and you won't have to think twice.

        AND for the love of god, buy everything you need before you tear it apart. Enjoy your car in the meantime and don't make it a jackstand race car like many including myself have!
        “Hey, come on, its a car right? No. It’s a symbol of your history, its a thread of continuity from which you came to where you are. It’s important that you don’t want to forget who you are.” -Dr.Phil in "Love the Beast"

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        • #5
          Originally posted by caliber676 View Post
          AND for the love of god, buy everything you need before you tear it apart. Enjoy your car in the meantime and don't make it a jackstand race car like many including myself have!
          This is so true!)
          TTBB is a true ACN member

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          • #6
            thanks guys! thats a lot of help! I'm definitely going to do a good oil pump and glad things are cleared up on the valves! i forgot about the for, and i do know i need to do some research on the A/R and find one that has performed well as stated

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