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  • Possible AWD Issue Solution

    So I have been building a Single Turbo R32GTR from a car i found buried under junk in a shed for over 3 years with a blown up head gasket. http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gt-r-pro...r-r32-gtr.html

    So since buying the car, I have had one persistent issue that I may have figured out finally. Since running, I have had a bucking/surging when under WOT in 4WD. I figured out by accident one day that if i pull the 4WD fuse, the car doesn't do it at all, but when in 4WD is bucks violently, and chirps the tires around corners, and just basically acts like an asshole.

    So last night I said **** it, and started looking into ****, begining with checking the Atessa for codes, and none flashed, then the G sensor, and its good, calibrated correctly (tested pots all 2.50v), and then tested outputs at g sensor and atessa, all good. Then i bled the atessa system and put in new fluid, everything seemed to work good, until i noticed that the atessa pump didn't pump continuously, but instead little blurps for 1/2sec at a time. You could hear a relay click and it would pump for a second, then shut off, then click and pump again, over and over. I didn't think anything of it, until i though about hose it surges the same way. So when I checked with a few locals, when they bled, their pump turned on continuously when bleeding, like a fuel pump would.

    So this being said, I understand the ETS pump on top of the rear diff works like a jet pump in your house, has a pressure switch which in my case i believe to be reading wrong, thinking its full pressure right away and turning off, then back on again, over and over. My question is if the ETS pump has to be replaced, or is their an external pressure switch I can replace first. And does anyone have one i can have cheap lol
    1992 BNR32 Skyline
    285hp / 220tq @ 15.5PSI On Mustang Dyno 2014-09-22


    Current Build:
    Precision 6264 Turbo 1.00A/R
    Tomei PonCam Type B
    Manley Titanium Valvetrain
    CP Pistons / Manley Rods
    Supertec Spline Drive Oil Gears/Drive
    N1 water pump / N1 Oil Pump
    Haltech Platnium Pro
    AEM Water/Menthanol
    Tomei FPR
    Exedy Hyper Twin Clutch

    May 9th, 2015 made 408whp @ 9PSI


    Build Thread
    http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gt-r-project-cars/62483-project-modworks-monster-r32-gtr-16.html

  • #2
    Out of curiousity did the pump run continuosly when you were bleeding the system? I'm assuming you had the relay wire disconnected under the drivers kick panel.

    Comment


    • #3
      yup had it disconnected, and no it would not run continuously, little 1/2sec pumps
      1992 BNR32 Skyline
      285hp / 220tq @ 15.5PSI On Mustang Dyno 2014-09-22


      Current Build:
      Precision 6264 Turbo 1.00A/R
      Tomei PonCam Type B
      Manley Titanium Valvetrain
      CP Pistons / Manley Rods
      Supertec Spline Drive Oil Gears/Drive
      N1 water pump / N1 Oil Pump
      Haltech Platnium Pro
      AEM Water/Menthanol
      Tomei FPR
      Exedy Hyper Twin Clutch

      May 9th, 2015 made 408whp @ 9PSI


      Build Thread
      http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gt-r-project-cars/62483-project-modworks-monster-r32-gtr-16.html

      Comment


      • #4
        I had a similar issue(no bucking since I never got to drive the car) but my 4wd wouldn't work. I had diagnosed a whole whack of codes and fixed them up being wiring issues, then got to code 18. This was wiring harness or pump. We tested the harness it was fine which meant pump.

        Under someone elses suggestion I rebled the system and that fixed my issue, however it popped up again recently after a dead radio bled my battery dry. If the battery isn't making enough power my 4wd light comes on. This could be linked to your problem.


        If you do infact need a pump, I bought one prior to mine magically fixing itself and now have it sitting spare in my garage somewhere. PM me if interested, but check to make sure you're getting enough power, and make sure you've bled it correctly.

        Comment


        • #5
          Yup. That's an issue.

          Comment


          • #6
            Look into this thread too - http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/158978-at...cannister.html
            TTBB is a true ACN member

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by tryingtobebest View Post
              Hmmm interesting, Id rather just get a working one and swap I think, just as simple really.
              1992 BNR32 Skyline
              285hp / 220tq @ 15.5PSI On Mustang Dyno 2014-09-22


              Current Build:
              Precision 6264 Turbo 1.00A/R
              Tomei PonCam Type B
              Manley Titanium Valvetrain
              CP Pistons / Manley Rods
              Supertec Spline Drive Oil Gears/Drive
              N1 water pump / N1 Oil Pump
              Haltech Platnium Pro
              AEM Water/Menthanol
              Tomei FPR
              Exedy Hyper Twin Clutch

              May 9th, 2015 made 408whp @ 9PSI


              Build Thread
              http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gt-r-project-cars/62483-project-modworks-monster-r32-gtr-16.html

              Comment

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