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Camcovers > catchtank > vent via vacuum hose from catchtank to just behind back of engine (to atmosphere). Of course there's a plate with holes in it (inside catchtank) to separate oil from blowby gas before blowby gas is vented to atmosphere via hose.
Or replace vent vacuum hose with a small airfilter, as shown on the top of this catch tank (also note it has drain bung at bottom) -
That catchtank has holes in a cylinder that runs down the middle of catchtank, acting as a oil / blowby separation plate.
Also block off PCV hole in intake plenum and block hole in intake pipe infront of turbo (where PCV piping connects to).
A theory someone came up with is (they supposedly have done this in UK), if you can remove the blowby gas from sump, then it doesn't get to head and blow oil out of camcovers. They say use a check valve on sump (I gather when pressure rises to certain level, valve opens and vents gasses). The dual catch tank setup with drain to sump can help to remove blowby gas (gas that gets past rings on pistons) via oil drain hose and vent into intake after going through 2x catchtanks (removing oil, etc).
Have vented sump to atmosphere by accident one time. Result, engine ran really rough at idle. Conclusion, it needs to be recirculated into intake to stop engine running rough at idle or have a check valve on sump.
With dual catch tank, can weld a screw type bung onto sump on intake side of engine and screw on a AN fitting and have a braided hose from AN fitting that goes to bottom of first catchtank. Or place first catchtank on exhaust side and connect drain from first catchtank to turbo oil drain hose.
Nismo created a oil separator tank that does a similar job as first catchtank in a dual catchtank setup (returns oil to sump from head) and I think connects to oildrain hose on RB26 engine -
Nismo oil separator tank setup is more for road use, emissions. That's why I mentioned the dual catch tank setup is good for emissions and works on racetrack (proven in Japan). In some countries it's needed for car to be road legal.
Or replace vent vacuum hose with a small airfilter, as shown on the top of this catch tank (also note it has drain bung at bottom) -
That catchtank has holes in a cylinder that runs down the middle of catchtank, acting as a oil / blowby separation plate.
Also block off PCV hole in intake plenum and block hole in intake pipe infront of turbo (where PCV piping connects to).
A theory someone came up with is (they supposedly have done this in UK), if you can remove the blowby gas from sump, then it doesn't get to head and blow oil out of camcovers. They say use a check valve on sump (I gather when pressure rises to certain level, valve opens and vents gasses). The dual catch tank setup with drain to sump can help to remove blowby gas (gas that gets past rings on pistons) via oil drain hose and vent into intake after going through 2x catchtanks (removing oil, etc).
Have vented sump to atmosphere by accident one time. Result, engine ran really rough at idle. Conclusion, it needs to be recirculated into intake to stop engine running rough at idle or have a check valve on sump.
With dual catch tank, can weld a screw type bung onto sump on intake side of engine and screw on a AN fitting and have a braided hose from AN fitting that goes to bottom of first catchtank. Or place first catchtank on exhaust side and connect drain from first catchtank to turbo oil drain hose.
Nismo created a oil separator tank that does a similar job as first catchtank in a dual catchtank setup (returns oil to sump from head) and I think connects to oildrain hose on RB26 engine -
Nismo oil separator tank setup is more for road use, emissions. That's why I mentioned the dual catch tank setup is good for emissions and works on racetrack (proven in Japan). In some countries it's needed for car to be road legal.
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