What brake pads (and more) should i buy?

[magular]

so ive got a gts-t with not huge plans on the brakes.. its only been daily'd for the past couple years and im about to start doing much more drifting on the track and i just want good brakes... drifting isnt really the reason i just want to stop quick when someone cuts me off...

my car came with slotted rotors and and hawk hp pads all around and ive never changed anything. i recently removed ABS and i heard you can use better then DOT3 brake fluid if you dont have ABS. anyways should i get dot 4 or 5? i dont know much so you dont need to get all crazy. i remade all the brake lines in the car. with the new copper nickle stuff. and added a proportioning valve to help balance front to rear braking power to calipers.


the plan is to get my rotors turned back to nice smooth finish for the new pads ill buy and the new fluid and lines to help out as well...

some guy gave me some AMS carbon ceramic rear pads when he shipped someone else and i was going to use them and buy the matching fronts. kuz i heard carbon ceramic is a good mix for daily/track. and i hear that style of pads do squeal but oh well...

what do you recommend! if you know more about fluid or pads say whatever you want i need to learn. but this car is being build for more track car and i dont want somehting that only works when its hot like a full crazy track car, and i bet thats really expensive.

should i go to project mu?

thanks

Marc

[RixR32]

Good brake fluid is important. Go with something like Motul.
Also, braided flex lines aren't a bad idea either.
EBC Yellowstuff pads are a good cross between street and track, at a nice price....as are the Hawk HP's you have already.
Go with good rotors too. For the price (you have a GTST), skip the machining and just get good new ones.
If yours is a type-m with the big 4-pot front calipers, then your pads and rotors are all the same as 300zx TT (I used 1994 for my GTST) so your options are very numerous.

Rick

[Voodoo_ChildR32]

Stay away from dot 5 fluid unless you've gutted your entire brake system. I'd also suggest new rotors with pads rather than resurfacing. You'll want as much meat as possible. Aggressive compound pads will chew through used rotors faster than you can imagine. Not to mention the extra heat generated on the track will scorch and warp them ten times faster. I run dot 4 synthetic and have no issues at all. It just has a higher boiling point than dot 3. A lot of the newer Euro cars come from the factory with dot 4.


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[magular]

here's an old pic i had kicking around to show you the rotors that came with the car... i thought they should be decent and if i resurface them maybe last me a year.. give me a chance to save some money to buy some pimp ones. but maybe you guys thing i should just keep my original pads and rotors on till end of this season then get new stuff right?

so its all fresh and no grooved pads or rotors. and i mean drifting you dont use the calipers much.. the ebake yes! but that wont warping my rotors or chewing them either... but i understand what you guys mean. and yes ill be doing steel braided lines. i guess ill just take a look around to compare products between companies... but at least someone has started throwing ideas around to help me figure out whats the best situation...

[Skym]

Always use new rotors, new brake pads and bed them in properly. There's many ways to bed in brake pads, rotors, but I lightly pulse brake for 3 sec at a time for 300km or so (I started with street, then motorway pulse braking, then street again). Don't stop the first time you brake if you can and don't heavy brake. Use handbrake right at end and pull foot of brake pedal. You don't want brake pad to melt itself onto brake rotor. This is important if you want brakes to work without fading.

With rotors, 2 piece ProjectMU (bigger gap / cooling area down middle of rotor) on front, stock on rear. The hat (centre part) on 2 piece rotor doesn't get as much heat transfer (rotor doesn't warp) and rotor should be lighter. Also it's usually cheaper than single piece to replace just the outer part with 2 piece ProjectMU brake rotors.

Teflon (to protect braid from rocks, dust) braided brake hoses. HEL, Nismo, etc.

Dot 4 600+ boiling point brake fluid (Penrite, Motul, etc). From what I understand, when brake fluid overheats (passes boiling point) you get brake fade, so look for a higher boiling point.

Ferodo brake pads -

http://www.ferodo.co.uk/ferodo_web/high-performance.aspx

[Supraclean]

Honestly Marc I have a full Ams brake kit with there z32 rotors/Ss lines and Cermamic pads. I am more the happy with there performance, rotor wear. They dont skweak one bit, even my mechanic buddies cant beleive how well my rotors wear.

My car is like yours I Dd it in the summer and go to every track event I can, no issues.


Your ebrake is a different situation, if you habe 300$ go get yourself a hydro ebrake.

If not your can replace your ebrake shoes like I did, as I got a good price on Project Mu shoes. Some guys run another caliper, i prefer to just use the rear brake caliper

[magular]

well after talking to some formula D drivers and drift union apparently ebrake shoes work better then calipers.. thats what they all recommended so i probly wont go hydro/caliper. but probly wouldnt be a bad idea to do the project Mu shoes if that will be my main drifting go to...

and thanks for all the advice everyone else. its good to hear different oppinions.

[support@feastauto]

Project Mu offer a really good inner sports shoe. Few customers running this set up and with great results.

[magular]

well adam thanks for the reassurance. i'll get some eventually lol

[Aiden8100]

Whether you use your car or truck for a daily commute or for epic road trips,you need reliable,consistent brakes.Creating a highly productive, reliable and safe law enforcement vehicle requires staying up on the latest technology.Many companies offer a wide selection of brake pads.Upgraded pads for normal driving will likely be noisier,produce more dust and possibly respond with a harder pedal feel.