Blew my turbo, options?

[bnsportsr33]

Nvm it is a bearing that is ****** in the bottom end on the connecting rod.... **** will drop pan tomorrow and check to see which bearings are gone and if crank is ******.

[Skym]

Sorry to hear.

Put a oil pressure gauge on engine. If oil pressure is low, then bearings are most likely stuffed.

[bnsportsr33]

drop oil, drop pan and oil sump pump and I should be able to see which bearing is gone right?

[Skym]

Might be able to if the bearing is totally gone, but if worn on the surface, you'll have to remove the conrod cap.

Oil pressure should be very low (below factory figures) if have run a bearing or have a oil leak some where, cams have clearance problems.

[bnsportsr33]

Well got the pan off finally (what a bitch that is, had to take apart half the freakin car) I unbolted the conn rod caps but they are not budging and I really don't want to damage them, is there a trick to getting them off? Also when they were still bolted up it felt like there was play side to side in every bearing. Also I should mention when I drained the oil there was no metal shavings or any silverish color to the oil. However, when I did pull the oil pan off we find two very VERY small little metal filings from something but nothing else, and I'm talking insanely small like .1 of a mm in size.

I'm hoping that I can get away with just replacing the bearings and be good to go for the rest of the summer but I need to check the crank first, which would mean I have to get the stupid rod caps off and mark them of course so I know where they go. Any ideas on getting those bastards off?

I know my friend with his built Honda said to replace with King Race bearings, what is your guys opinion on the KING bearings compared to the ACL ones which I was going to go with.

[Skym]

If run a bearing you need to get the shaft cracked tested, etc (needs to be removed) and machined if necessary. They then digitally check the outside diameter of crank where bearing goes, diameter of conrod where bearing goes and select the correct bearing size.

I understand what you mean with changing bearing while crank, etc is installed. But I wouldn't do that with a performance engine that reaches high rpm where clearances, balance is critical.

[bnsportsr33]

Friend who suggested it is a certified mechanic so if I pull it apart and the crank looks to be in good shape that is what I will do for this summer, at least I can enjoy my car then. What my question was, how do you get the rod caps off is there a trick? I don't want to bash on it, I've taken the two nuts off but the cap won't budge and i've used my fingers putting a substantial amount of pressure to pop them off but they just won't budge. Any ideas?

I do appreciate the concern and I know it's not the proper way but I plan on rebuilding the motor soon anyways so if I can get away with just replacing the bearings i'm going to do that, also I'm in between jobs right now so money is a little tight.

[Dragon Humper]

Put the rod nuts back on again. Back them off about half way to create a hole to put a brass punch into. Smack the punch with a sizable mallet gently, two on each side at a time. Start light and progress harder and harder untill they let go. Once they do, remove the nuts and pull them off. As long as the journals look good and the clearences are good (use Plastigage) you should be fine to put her back together and cruise for the rest of the summer. If the clearences are a bit big just use a nice thick dino oil and you will be fine. Synths are just too watery with large clearences.



Jon.

[bnsportsr33]

picked up the plastigage, do I use the green or the red?

[Dragon Humper]

Should be green.



Jon.

[bnsportsr33]

Ignore the talking to Steve part, that is my friend who was helping me with the noise. But here are videos of under the car with the rod caps off and the actual bearings in the house.

I'm thinking they look pretty good but I'll let the videos do the talking. Enjoy and let me know what you guys think.

[Dragon Humper]

Nothing wrong with that. Just clean up the journals and rods with some varsol and put your new brgings in. Leave them dry and do a quick Plasiguage check. The squashed plastic comes off pretty good with a little WD40. Not sure where the noise was coming from because the rods look good. Maybe pull off the mains if you can and take a peek...kinda hard on these motors though with the common main girdle.




Jon.

[bnsportsr33]

So you would recommend throwing new bearings in though? Since I have it all apart I may as well I'm thinking. Acl or king? I'm scared tho what that sound was I don't want to put it back together for it only to make the same noise. What oil would you recommend I run? I was running 5w30 royal purple. Thanks Jon and skym for all your help

[bnsportsr33]

Do I even need to plastigage if I'm putting new bearings in? On the packaging it says if clearances are out of spec then replace with new bearings. Well I'm already replacing with new bearings so is plastigage even needed?

[bnsportsr33]

plastigaged #2 for the hell of it. Clearance is .0015 in or .038 mm

what size bearings should I order?