love_boost's budget build.

[love_boost]

After owning my car for close to two years, with just doing the normal bolt on’s. I figure it’s about time to start a project thread although it will be progressing fairly slowly though. My goal is for around 400 reliable WHP on my RB20.

So far I got:
Tomei MLS head gasket (stock thickness)
Tomei strengthen timing belt
New tensioner pulley and idler bearing.
New OEM water pump
Nismo clutch pivot
Holset H1C turbo, stock manifold with external w/g flange welded on, 38mm External waste gate (no name). I’ll try it out but probably change it.
Trust FMIC (may have to change to bigger piping and core).
HKS EVC boost controller.

What’s still on my need to buy when I have money list:
GTR cams
Adjustable cam gears.
Deatschwerks 550cc injectors (or GTR 440cc, still unsure)
Adjustable FPR
Nistune
Tomei GTR 276lph fuel pump
ARP head studs.
Still unsure of clutch, im thinking ACT (suggestions?).
Koyo radiator
2 12” electric fans
N1 oil pump.
Innovate wideband.
Digital Auto meter cobalt oil pressure and fuel pressure gauges.
Auto meter cobalt boost and water temp.
Possibly an EGT gauge (useful?)

That’s about it, im sure I probably forgot a few things in there somewhere. Suggestions and criticism is appreciated. Pictures to follow once I actually make some progress. i hope to have it tuned and finished in two months. i plan on running pump gas to hit my horsepower target, im pretty sure that is possible on stock pistons and rods?

[M13]

if You want Deatschwerks 550cc, hit me a PM in June as I am upgrading to 650 or 700 cc.

Good prices will be there. I just got these about 6000KM ago, works amazingly!

Good build idea, but what's your goal for the car's use? Too big of a turbo on a 2L can be pretty boring/useless for street. Unless you just want peak #.

[love_boost]

i want to try drag racing and see how it goes, im out of highschool this year so hopefully i can get a better job and try an rb26 for next winter. this turbo is smaller than a HX35. i should hit full boost around 4500ish

[Skym]

You'll need a upgraded MAF (Z32 or similar) and at least 550cc Deatschwerks injectors. Knowing the cc of each injector is important when resiszing injectors with Nistune. So Deatschwerks injectors with cc etc on report for each injector is perfect.

Don't use stock GTR cams, as they are solid cams and the ramp rate is too much for hydraulic lifters, etc. As far as cams go, Tomei Poncams if using stock valvetrain. Or with more aggressive Tomei cams, upgrade the valve springs, valve guides when head is off.

If you want cheaper cams, you can regrind the stock cams to race spec for less than half the cost of new cams to get a little more hp and works with stock valve springs, stock ECU, etc -

http://www.kelford.co.nz/regrinds/

Prices, reground cam specs ("std") -

http://www.camshafts.co.nz/Nissan.aspx

Higher lift cams is what shortens valvetrain longevity. So Poncams or reground stock cams are perfect for most applications.

Responsive car is more fun to drive. Especially on the street.

[GavinJohnson]

i love my act clutch, and i have some cam gears for sale if your interested

[love_boost]

alright thanks skym i will think about it, i was going to go with GTR cams just becuase it is supposedly a cheap mod.

are the XTD clutches any good? i went to a wreckers and there was an R32 that the clutch blew up and tore the bellhousing up, im not sure if this is the result of a cheap flywheel or clutch?

[RHDskyline]

did mike show you the one skyline where like the clutch blew a whole in the firewall? haha

did you pick anything up from him?

[love_boost]

yes he did lol, so now im going to be extra careful on my clutch choices.
not much i got my dimmer switch and ignitor for a Z32 my friends got alot more stuff then me lol, im broke

[RWD_GTR]

hate to be a **** but why do u make a build thread without pics?

[RHDskyline]

Hes got tons of pics, hes just a little bitch and doesn't wanna post em up hahah

its ok, everyone loves a stock skyline


Ballin on a budget, right?

[MikeRWK]

Get the 280lph denso pump instead of the tomei, its cheaper and just as good.

[Skym]

Area around clutch can explode if you machine the factory flywheel (trying to make it lighter which weakens it). Puts a hole in driveshaft tunnel. Always use a aftermarket flywheel (Excedy, etc) when you want a lighter flywheel.

[nelsonmxmarc]

Of course, that's only relative to how much you're machining.. For the most part i dont think i'd ever consider machining the OEM fly wheel to save weight a safe thing lol. Won't explode with light resurfacing (machining) seeing as it's NORMALLY, max 5 thousandths of an inch of material unless it's in really rough shape, at which a/m flywheel would be the best option..

I love my ACT clutch.. It's a solid hub 6 puck with pressure plate.. break in period was by the box (500 ish) and with a few hard starts, it seats really well and beds well with every shift.. Haven't had any issues with slipping up around 300 whp thus far.. Will no more once i have my rebuilt turbo in.. But these are good until around, 450 whp i believe? Should be mint.

[nelsonmxmarc]

was going to go with GTR cams just becuase it is supposedly a cheap mod

Skym's on the nose here. You'll need to bump the hydraulic lifters for the solid lifters on the GTR, as well as run their buckets/shims/valve springs etc which will cost more than swapping valve springs and poncams in.

[frankiman]

page2 and still no pics, this isn't ''Oprah tells a story''